As long as there is no wind, you’re ok.That's lucky. It all looks good in the photos.
Plenty of dust to deal with here, but we're on a farm in the midst of a very dry season.
As long as there is no wind, you’re ok.That's lucky. It all looks good in the photos.
Plenty of dust to deal with here, but we're on a farm in the midst of a very dry season.
Cowl Bodywork Completed
Got all the bodywork done on the cowls with the side pins hidden under the RV14A plaque. Everything fits well and the pins and Skybolts all go in with no issues.
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I used the same pin hinge covers as these on my RV7. What did you do with the ends of the hinge pins behind the covers? Thanks Kloot
Attached the baffles.
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Started fitting the snorkel. It was too wide by 3/4". So, I cut it in half and took a section out in the middle and epoxied/floxed it back together. After some bodywork, it looks pretty good. Primed it today and will paint it tomorrow.
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Thank you Scott. That’s what I’m going to do. Didn’t know if there was a better mousetrap.Kloot,
I bent the pin around to form a loop. This allows pulling it out easier.
Scott
Here's what mine looks like with the trick cover removed.Thank you Scott. That’s what I’m going to do. Didn’t know if there was a better mousetrap.
I presume you mean the 90 degree coming off the head? I agree. I never liked the clamp on the nut, either. Thanks. SDuring a review by my bud who is an A&P, he suggested I move the Adel clamp off the flare nut to the fitting. Reason was the fitting is less likely to turn than the nut.
I have no idea how that nut could spun off.. the adel clamp works like a wire safety to my perception... it is tight and the alternate air cable wont just let the assembly spin. But do what the A&P says.During a review by my bud who is an A&P, he suggested I move the Adel clamp off the flare nut to the fitting. Reason was the fitting is less likely to turn than the nut.
The nut doesn’t have to spin off, just get loose for a leak to occur. Probably would never loosen the nut but not a good practice. And if I get a DAR like Mel, one less thing for him to find.I have no idea how that nut could spun off.. the adel clamp works like a wire safety to my perception... it is tight and the alternate air cable wont just let the assembly spin. But do what the A&P says.
How did you go about painting the rest of the fuselage? I'm thinking about how to tackle it. Seems like it is going to be a challenge to paint the underside and have enough space to get in with a creeper. Also to be able to paint a complete "lap" around the fuselage before the paint flashes off and makes it difficult to avoid overspray settling on. Where on the fuse did you start and end spraying to meet up with the "wet edge"?I wasn't happy with the paintwork I did on the lower cowl after cutting and buffing it. So, rather than wish I had redone it when it was in the shop, I sanded it all down and repainted it. This time, I got the lighting so I could see what I was painting (important) and it turned out much better. A little cutting and buffing will make this part look like the upper bits. Almost there........!
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Paul,How did you go about painting the rest of the fuselage? I'm thinking about how to tackle it. Seems like it is going to be a challenge to paint the underside and have enough space to get in with a creeper. Also to be able to paint a complete "lap" around the fuselage before the paint flashes off and makes it difficult to avoid overspray settling on. Where on the fuse did you start and end spraying to meet up with the "wet edge"?
Cheers
Paul
Paul,
Painting the belly was not as difficult as it might seem, although it is a lot of real estate. The fuse is pretty high up, so a creeper is all that is needed, although I just sat on the floor of my shop and slid around. I adjusted my paint with slow flashing reducer and painted at an average temperature of 65F, so by continually moving, overspray was kept at a minimum. I use an Anest Iwata LPH400 gun and orange air cap for colors and silver cap for clears. I painted the centerline of the belly and worked outward. That way, the overlap orange peel is at the very center, underneath, and less noticeable. It's no different than the way you would shoot a large car. Some cutting and buffing is inevitable, though, to get a perfectly flat finish if that is the goal.
That's a good plan. In fact, unless you have a 44 oz cup on your gun, you'll need to change cups halfway through. I used two 22 oz cups to cover the belly and halfway up the sides of mine. Two cups works well, but if you are using Sherwin Williams, like me, the paint needs to react with the activator for 15 mins before spraying. Logistics gets tricky. Shoot the belly. Then shoot the sides and roof. The overspray along the underside can be cut and buffed and out of view unless observed from below. So, unless you're planning on inverted flying with spectators flying above you, looking down, it won't be visible.Thanks Scott
The LPH400 looks like a nice gun and the HTE should help with overspray reduction I expect.
The belly is a big expanse especially under the cockpit and baggage area. I can't really visualize how to work underneath and then come out and up the sides while spraying as it seems there would be a bit of scrambling to get out from underneath to spray up the sides. I'm thinking of maybe spraying the belly first and then masking it off when it is dry (along the natural seam lines) before spraying the fusealage sides and top.
p.s. if I can paint early in the day the temps will be cooler so it doesn't flash off too fast, I will also try slow reducer and activator, the down side of that will be more potential for runs and dust getting in...
I've got the 3M PPS cups, 600 ml, the paint is Valspar (Sherwin Williams) single stage polyurethane that doesn't require any induction time. Still, I've been caught out on some smaller parts when I had to stop and mix more paint and by then the previous coat was already flashed off and it was difficult to get a good finish. The standard reducer flashes off quickly at 25 C but there is a slower speed activator and reducer that will hopefully work out better on the bigger parts. This paint seems to lay down and flow out better when it is warmer, even though it flashes off a bit too fast before the next coat.That's a good plan. In fact, unless you have a 44 oz cup on your gun, you'll need to change cups halfway through. I used two 22 oz cups to cover the belly and halfway up the sides of mine. Two cups works well, but if you are using Sherwin Williams, like me, the paint needs to react with the activator for 15 mins before spraying. Logistics gets tricky. Shoot the belly. Then shoot the sides and roof. The overspray along the underside can be cut and buffed and out of view unless observed from below. So, unless you're planning on inverted flying with spectators flying above you, looking down, it won't be visible.