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Dec 6, 2022 Issue #5,706.(previous day's news).
Contract pilot resume
HELP ME KEEP THIS SITE GOING....PLEASE
I'm trying different things to try to get my oil temps up to what it seems they should be, and it is a challenge. I have a newly finished RV6 with an O-360-A1A, carbed, standard compression. My oil cooler is the 7 row one you get in the FWF kit from Vans. I have it mounted on the firewall, fed through a 3" SCAT tube connected to the #4 aft baffle. The engine is new, just past breakin at 50 hours. On my first several flights with this setup the oil temp was always 175-185 after flying for 20 minutes or so. The OAT at that time (early September) was usually in the 80-90* range. Now that fall/winter is here, and the engine is broken in, I'm having a tough time getting the oil temp back to those early levels, in fact it seems to be impossible. I started with a blocking plate on the forward side of the baffle opening for the SCAT tube that was fashioned to help also cool #4 CHT. It actually helped reduce the #4 CHT just a little, but didn't make a noticeable difference in oil temperature, see first pic below: --->
I fly an RV-9A. I've been flying behind my AFS 5600 panel for a couple of years now. My panel also includes a single AFS com radio and AFS basic intercom for two people. Lately, I've thought about adding a second com radio and was wondering what all of you feel is the best choice for this. I am a low-time VFR pilot and I don't intend to upgrade to IFR anytime soon. Maybe something that includes a nav/com combo?
Trailing Edge, 3M tape or Pro-Seal? ...gkochers PIREP
Did it both ways - prefer the tape. I used proseal on the rudder and elevators on my -10. I switched it up to tape for the ailerons and flaps and I wouldn't go back. For me it was easier, cleaner and had better results.
I was going to cleco to a straight angle as others have done but was concerned about the straightness of an aluminum angle. I ended up just cleco'ing straight to my "workbench". In the case of these items where I want a really flat surface, I used an interior door blank that was perfectly flat (at least flatter than my normal bench). I just drilled right through the door and set clecos as I was making the initial match drilling of the wedge.
Then I cleaned the TE well, taped it and let it sit for a few days to cure. Then backriveted it, starting every 10 rivets, then 5, then 2, then done. I was very happy with the results.
I find that no matter how straight you get it with the tape or proseal, there is going to be some distortion as you rivet. Kuddos to the folks that have figured out how to rivet while leaving the angle in place. If you careful with your riveting, I think you can get good results without it. I just kept an eye on it as I went to make sure I didn't have any waviness. You can make small adjustments while riveting, even after riveting.
Note the flaps on the -10 are longer than my door blank. I let the ends overhang about 8" and still got good results.
Rudder Trailing Edge Mistake ...-10
I'm at this step on my rudder build:
"Step 8: Put a slight bend in the trailing edge of
the R-1001 Skins so that they will lay down flat
and tight on the R-1006 Trailing Edge after
riveting (see Section 5K)."
Section 5K/5.10 talks about several methods of doing this with this final caution:
"Some tool suppliers sell tools for this purpose, usually two small rollers mounted on a variety of different tools. The edge of the
aluminum sheet is placed between the rollers and a bending pressure is held as the tool is drawn down the edge. Use these with
caution as they may tend to stretch a long edge and make it wavy. Avoid over bending the edge and causing a worse visual effect
than before. Experiment with scrap material first."
So what did I do?
Fan Spacer - "The Rest of The Story" ...HFS [ed. I still have mine! dr]
Fan spacers, in the new era of pre-punched kits, are really not needed for much anymore but -
In the "old days" all of the holes (for everything) were laid out according to the fan spacer, and the convenience it brought by doing so.
So, I'll add a little bit to the last KP article about their use -
Most people from the Paolithic era probably numbered their spacer's "fingers" to allow them to keep track of the numbers of holes (or spaces) being contemplated over a given distance; but, even more convenient for a spacing callout on the plans was to mark the first few fingers with a scribe mark (with Magic Marker overlay), lining up with the adjacent finger, at a given spacing, i.e. 3/4", 1", 1 1/4", 1 1/2", etc.
When laying out a row of holes for a given spacing callout - simply extend the spacer until the desired scribe mark aligned with the adjacent finger, then fine "tune" the spacing to coordinate with the distance over which the holes would be located.
I'm not sure how many "old school" builders did this - but it did help.
YMMV - But only by a fraction.
Rudder cable guides missing ...-12
I am a relatively new owner of a Synergy built RV-12 N233VA Serial Num 12007. The airframe has about 1350 hours on it. After accomplishing SB-00053 I was inspecting control cables in the tail. To me operating the rudder pedals created more scraping noise than I thought was normal.
Upon inspection I found that there was no plastic insert (SB750-10) in either the left or right side rudder cable supports F-1238L and F-1238R. I found no evidence that SB750-10 was ever installed. They were not hanging on the rudder cable anywhere and they were not laying on the bottom of the tail cone. Also, the plastic sleeve protecting the rudder cable in this area was worn all the way through so that the rudder cable was rubbing directly against the F1238 support. It is clear that the cable has been rubbing a long time.
It is hard to believe these just fell out and disappeared but I could be wrong. Has anyone else had any issues with these plastic guides for the rudder cable? If you didn't build your -12 it may be worth a one time inspection. It is pretty easy to see this area with the top tail cone cover off.
Of course I plan on installing SB750-10. The bigger problem is replacing the 10" plastic sleeve in this area. It is worn all the way through. The rudder cable itself looks to be in good shape. I am not the builder so I am unfamiliar with this assembly. Can the rudder cable be disassembled to allow replacing this sleeve near the tail or will it require a new set of factory built rudder cables?
We are having a heck of a time riveting this bracket. The rivets are ALL bending over. Can you offer insight into how to install these 8 rivets?
I've searched the archives, but cannot fine anything on this. If it's already been discussed, please let me know where.
Our 2023 Van's calendars are all done at the printers, and are on their way to our factory! People have been asking when we'll be sending them out. We'll start shipping calendar orders the week of November 29th!
Be sure to get your order in before they're all gone!
RV-15.com ...a page for what we know to date.
image courtesy Van's Aircraft
Events in the calendar w/in 60 days of happening.
10-17-2022: High Sierra Fly-In/National STOL Competition
See the Mars Helicopter's Logbook.
Did you know it has flown 34 times?
NOTE: Top of 'Route of Flight' field
has a blue icon. Click on that for
NEED THE OCCASIONAL
G450/G550 or Phenom 300
Contact / Pilot resume: DeltaRomeo.com.
My name is Doug Reeves, and in addition to running this site I have 2,600+ hours TT, including PIC type ratings in both the G-V (550/450) and Embraer Phenom 300. Additional time in Challenger 605, PC-12 and C208. I live in Dallas, TX and work part time in seat support at CAE in their three Phenom and (1) G450/G550 sims.
I am available for contract SIC work.
Ratings and experience:
- AIRLINE TRANSPORT PILOT.
- COMMERCIAL PILOT: AIRPLANE SINGLE & MULTIENGINE LAND; INSTRUMENT AIRPLANE.
- All checkrides, private through ATP, passed on the first attempt.
Typed and Current in:
(350/450/550/500/V). PIC typed in 550 w/diffs to 450. Typed: Feb 2022
Embraer Phenom 300
G-3000 and G-1000 avionics
PIC typed. Last recurrent: May 2022
CAE Level D Simulators: G450/550 and Phenom 300. Right Seat Program (~900 hrs on motion over 340+ sessions)
images grabbed off web
FMI / Contact: www.DeltaRomeo.com.