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Hi Martin,
Hi Derek,
thanks for the nice write-up. I love this group. Every plane is a bit different and what you did makes perfect sense.

You can question this decision but my engine depends on electricity. If I can cover one more remote case that would help, I'll not pass on that option.

I am putting in two EarthX batteries that can deliver a lot of current and they have all sorts of internal supervision and if something is violated, they shut off. I am therefore afraid of activating the cross bar / bus tie should one battery be low and the other full. The last thing I want to do is tripping the good battery by switching the bad one in parallel. Anyway, that was my thinking, I want to turn one battery off before activating the cross bar but I may want to use the alternator of that side. Just a very remote case.

Thanks for sharing your overvoltage thoughts, very helpful, I'll check that on my side.

/Martin
 
Hi Martin,

Not questioning the decision at all, in my mind both are valid solutions and widely used. Keeping the engine running makes a difference.

The bus tie issue is a real one for sure, and worthy of a placard. I haven't settled on the wording, but it is certainly one I want any pilot to be aware of, and not one I had thought of until reading the earthX manual. You really should not be connecting the two batteries together in flight. 99% of the time it will work fine, and its great to have the ability for starting, but I sure would hate to be in the situation of having one dead battery, one good - tie them together and have the good one decide it was dead shorted, or put more energy into the dead one than it could absorb. Lots that can go wrong in that scenario. No issue if you turn off one battery when you connect the buses, or if both are at similar voltages. (EarthX specifies 0.3V)


For those not aware, the issue is that since the LiPO (and really all batteries) can put out and receive a bunch of current due to the low internal resistance, connecting two batteries in parallel that have very different charge levels will flow a bunch of current into the one with less power, and you don't want to do that.
So if you have them in parallel you want to either keep them connected most of the time, or keep them separate. In my case I opted for separate, since I seem to have a statistical propensity to the overvoltage failure case.
 
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Hi Igor,

very impressive panel. I love your panel lights. Who is producing them?

I know you are installing AT-1 for traffic awareness. But which transponder device are using then?


Thanks,
Alex

Hi Alex, we make these push buttons and annunciators in house. PM me if you are interested. They are made in Germany and we modify them with custom text + the text is readable only when the LED is lit. So you have a nice airliner style 'dark cockpit philosophy'.

I'm using the GTX35R transponder. The AT-1 is wired to the G3X and GTN. One dedicated 'Traffic Mute' button is on the panel and the 'Traffic Acknowledge' button is located on the stick.

thanks,
 
RV10 Panel Upgrade

After 1300 hours and almost 10 years, I finally decided it was time to move this panel into the future. Below are the "as built" photo and the newly upgraded photo. With the exception of the power system, this required a totally new harness. I'm looking forward to another 10 years of flying behind this great panel!
 

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The new panel definitely looks a lot nicer than the late 60's panel that you had! :D

But seriously, very nice!!!
 
Looks awesome Bill!

Great minds think alike… :)

After 1300 hours and almost 10 years, I finally decided it was time to move this panel into the future. Below are the "as built" photo and the newly upgraded photo. With the exception of the power system, this required a totally new harness. I'm looking forward to another 10 years of flying behind this great panel!
 

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Just got mine from SteinAir. It is a beauty! Putting it in will require quite a bit of disassembly and reassembly, so enjoy it now before I mess it up.
 

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Mine arrived today

Aerotronics did my panel. A thing of beauty.
 

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I'm going to watch progress on this one. I'll probably go for the remote audio panel and won't have a/c and O2. Otherwise this is pretty much the setup I'm aiming for.

Major parts working after running some 138 wires (see https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1AqWwhWavieX5wUc94eRBboVtdiVnk19nisR-6vLuD6g/edit?usp=sharing). I have a 650 main GPS and a 375 secondary GPS with transponder. Cross fill works via the G3X system.
I built the sub-panel and center rib out of wood to be able to mount all the boxes in their designated places to get the harness right. I printed the sub-panel and rib at 1:1 scale at a Fedex Office place ($1 per square foot), then glued it to the wood panel and cut it out.
 
After 1300 hours and almost 10 years, I finally decided it was time to move this panel into the future. Below are the "as built" photo and the newly upgraded photo. With the exception of the power system, this required a totally new harness. I'm looking forward to another 10 years of flying behind this great panel!

Beautiful setup!
 
Xometry

I would like to share about my experience with ordering an aluminum panel through Xometry. They have charged me around 300$ inculding a delivery fee from Mexico.

So, I just uploaded my STEP file of the panel, clicked the button Order and in 3 weeks later I received a panel. It was very easy. I really like the quality of their laser cutting and tolerance. All the holes on the panel have been designed with the tolerance +0.2 mm to the actual diameter of the switches, LEDs (every single item was measured with a caliper during engineering process... Don't TRUST the drawings provided by manufactures!!! ) And the actual diameters on the panel I received are exactly +0.3 mm

F1
F2
F3
IMG_8972
IMG_8962
IMG_8961
IMG_8973
 
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I just uploaded my STEP file of the panel, clicked the button Order and in 3 weeks later I received a panel.

Tim,
Nice work! Any chance you are willing to share your STEP file? Would make a great starting point for those of us looking to do a G3X. It looks like you've already gone through the trouble of sourcing the individual models, etc

I'm waffling between an Aerosport panel or a traditional panel. Would be fun to experiment and move things around.

Thanks,
David
 
Files

It's not the end. I haven't even started a bottom console, where I am going to place all other switches, engine controls.... etc.


It's just the base aluminum panel. And I am also going to attach a fiber carbon overlay panel. The reason I personally don't like Aerosport's panel - they look like old Toyota's dashboard and it's not possible to fit as many instruments.

I would love to share everything I have, but I don't know how to share a 150 mB file here.... The project has been made in Autodesk Inventor 2023, so I can make a ZIP archive or export it into single STEP file

Let me try the Google drive...

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1iXm1BkdXypiLO0dJyfUC23RsLNx3Z69F/view?usp=share_link

Let me know if it doesn't work
 
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It's just the base aluminum panel. And I am also going to use a fiber carbon overlay panel. The reason I personally don't like Aerosport's panel - they look like old Toyota dashboard and it's not possible to fit as many instruments.

I would love to share everything I have, but I don't know how to share a 150 mB file here.... The project has been made in Autodesk Inventor 2023, so I can make a ZIP archive or export it into single STEP file

Let me try google drive...

Thanks Tim! A STEP file is a fairly common format that can be imported into a number of CAD programs. Question is whether or not it will maintain object groupings etc.

Google Drive works great if you get the share settings right.
 
Basic Panel

We are doing a basic panel - HDX, knobs, Garmin175, PDA360, G5 and iPad.

So, who has split their panel for access on a std fit ?

Where and how do you do the sub structure ?

Only rack items are the audio and Garmin.

Was thinking of a 1.5" wide .063" spreader that can accept nutplates.
 
Aerosport Symetrical Panel

Left, Middle and Right pics after 200 Hrs. Just removed a label for the E-Mags and milled a nice plate for the mag switches.

Regards,
 

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I would like to share about my experience with ordering an aluminum panel through Xometry. They have charged me around 300$ inculding a delivery fee from Mexico.

So, I just uploaded my STEP file of the panel, clicked the button Order and in 3 weeks later I received a panel. It was very easy. I really like the quality of their laser cutting and tolerance. All the holes on the panel have been designed with the tolerance +0.2 mm to the actual diameter of the switches, LEDs (every single item was measured with a caliper during engineering process... Don't TRUST the drawings provided by manufactures!!! ) And the actual diameters on the panel I received are exactly +0.3 mm

Dozer. Since you are using a laser cutting service you have the option of having them leave a tooth inside the switch and breaker holes for indexing and keeping them from moving. I even do it when there is a keyed magneto switch. So no extra switch locking holes or indexing washers are needed for the components. Attached is an example of the hole configuration I am talking about. I have these laser cut and it works out really well. I do have to do a little bit of slag clean up with a small file but it only takes a few seconds. Both methods (holes or indexing teeth) yield very professional results.
 

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Dozer. Since you are using a laser cutting service you have the option of having them leave a tooth inside the switch and breaker holes for indexing and keeping them from moving. I even do it when there is a keyed magneto switch. So no extra switch locking holes or indexing washers are needed for the components. Attached is an example of the hole configuration I am talking about. I have these laser cut and it works out really well. I do have to do a little bit of slag clean up with a small file but it only takes a few seconds. Both methods (holes or indexing teeth) yield very professional results.

I like a hole for a washer with a pin. But if someone really need to have a tooth, make it bigger and then file it to specific size. Laser unable to do very small teeth (they are melting at the tip).

But the reason I like those extra locking holes - my panel is a sandwich (aluminum base + fiber carbon overlay). And I don't make locking holes in the carbon fiber panel.
 
Not the best pic but you get the idea.

Dual Dynon HDX 1100, Dynon Comms (2), Garmin GPS 175, Garmin 340 Audio Panel. Not shown on left side...E-Mag dual electronic ignition switches.

I have no VHF nav radios. The Garmin GPS-175 gets me around in IFR. I've flown a few flights in IFR weather and have never missed that VHF Nav capability.
 

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Thinking about attending Airventure for the first time in fifteen years to celebrate Rv10 anniversary
 

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Aerosport symmetrical panel, all Garmin, remote com 2 behind luggage bulkhead.
2 E-Mags. Last pic I moved the AP head down where glove box was. Can fly right/left seat wo issue to panel layout. VPX Pro for circuitry.
 

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My backlit panel from Midwest Panel Builders

Ordered it in October 22
Received on October 16,2023
Received excellent documentation, with clear cut drawings and instructions
Proper labels on all terminals
Templets for cut outs

We had some doubts, so Steve and Adam personally flew down and helped in mounting

I am amazed at seeing what goes behind beautiful looking panel

It’s like Human Nervous system, well laid and complex

When I am typing this, I can imagine the electrical impulses traveling to and from my brain, making it possible. Similarly the meticulous work behind those big, beautiful Garmin screen, makes it work flawlessly

Await final picture

Will post the final review after flight testing

Here you can see me with my very efficient A&P Abbey, Steve and Adam
 

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Ordered it in October 22
Received on October 16,2023
Received excellent documentation, with clear cut drawings and instructions
Proper labels on all terminals
Templets for cut outs

We had some doubts, so Steve and Adam personally flew down and helped in mounting

I am amazed at seeing what goes behind beautiful looking panel

It’s like Human Nervous system, well laid and complex

When I am typing this, I can imagine the electrical impulses traveling to and from my brain, making it possible. Similarly the meticulous work behind those big, beautiful Garmin screen, makes it work flawlessly

Await final picture

Will post the final review after flight testing

Here you can see me with my very efficient A&P Abbey, Steve and Adam
Let's not let Dan see that inside firewall covering :) Perhaps rightfully so.

but congrats on a beautiful panel.
 
Thanks
I have used soundex insulation to dampen noise and vibrations in cabin, and sound dampening pain in tail
 
New Panel

Saint Aviation did a great job in upgrading my Skyview HDX panel. Removed the VP-200 and we replaced it with the Advanced Flight Systems - Advanced Control Module. New panel has worked flawlessly.

Added:
AV30E
7" Skyview
2nd ADHRS
Dynon Com Panel
New USB plugs
Lots of new Advanced Flight switches
Blank panel and all plug and play cables/configuration for new 10" Skyview (when I find some money)
Moved everything from lower panel to main panel
They cut the new panel, power coated it to the color of my choosing and then engraved everything...first class all the way.

Removed:
Gemini ADI
TruTrak B/U Battery
Garmin GL106A
Vertical card compass
Dynon SV-ARINC 429
Icom A200 Com
Lots of serviceable VP-200 parts available if anyone is interested.

First pic will be the old panel with the VP-200 and the next three will be the new panel.

I couldn't be more pleased with the upgrade pricing and in the work that Jesse and his crew accomplished in only 5 weeks.
 

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After 15 years of flying I upgraded my panel. Thanks to Steinair for all their help. I stripped everything out and also added the over head air. All the extra work was as much work as the panel itself. It’s like a brand new plane. This was my winter project and spent about 700 hrs doing it.
 

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Here's mine. I'm pretty proud of how it turned out, especially the backlighting. Makes the night stuff a lot easier.
 

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