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DIY Engine dehumidifier purge pump

I get what you're saying, but the way my dryer is set up, it's a closed loop. Once I permanently attach the breather tube downspout, it will end right above the exhaust and there won't be room to get a hose from the dryer on it. I suppose at that point I could go just pump dry air in the oil filler without circulating it, and I don't doubt your observation that dew is likely forming in an engine just like it is on a car hood or whatever, but I think that even with a Lycoming, which are known for rusting cams because of their location relative to where the oil tends to fling around in there, if a guy flies every few days, there will be a nice oil film protecting all the crucial stuff.

Cheap insurance I guess. I'm certainly not going to tell anyone they shouldn't do it. Like I said, it's just my personal opinion that it's not necessary, with the caveat if somebody only flies every couple of months (why do you even own an airplane?) then yeah, sooner or later that oil film will go away and stuff is going to start to rust, starting with the cam.
Yeh, in my case I prize simplicity of connection and that includes not getting down on the ground to plug the tubing onto the Anti-splat separator outlet after each flight in order to close the loop, so I gave up on closed circuit and just hook the air pump up to the dipstick tube using a 3-D printed cap that I bought from Steve Melton. Works great, hooks up in seconds. I'm sure that there are many right ways to do it and I can find absolutely no evidence to suggest any one particular best way, but I perceive that the most important thing is to keep the engine's innards above the dew point as much of the time as possible.... = my rationale.
 
I have a closed loop system but am not using a filter. I’m interested in which filters are being used and how they are connected. Any pictures would be appreciated.
 
I have a closed loop system but am not using a filter. I’m interested in which filters are being used and how they are connected. Any pictures would be appreciated.
I've had more than a few oil analyses from Blackstone without evidence of silica, but I don't disagree that a filter on the output isn't bad idea. If it was me, I'd start with an inline filter such as used for brew kegs or more likely something used for CPAP machines. If that clogged too often, I'd probably rig up some kind of bigger HEPA filter.

 
On your C-85, does the crankcase oil level come up the fill tube high enough to block the upper portion of the tube from the crankcase air? In other words is the air you see in the tube separated from crankcase air?
I no longer own the aircraft, as I recall the oil level was below the base of the fill tube and I so the air sample was from crankcase air. It was a "Holy Crap! "Whats the cause of this?" moment. Now I know.
 
Please tell me what the % humidity was prior to processing the air and after processing the air. What data can you supply to justify this process? Are you actually improving the humidity % or making it worse by introducing ambient air into an engine....or not accomplishing anything at all?

Somebody, please snake a hygrometer remote probe through some opening such as the oil filler tube on a cold engine and leave it there for a day and come back and record the measurement. Then run your dehumidifying system for a day or two and record the measurement.

Inquiring minds want to know if the data supports the practice.
Webb, I have been down the rabbit hole on crankcase humidity measurements. I too long to post and too involved, but a few well researched observations.

The capacity type humidity sensors will measure more than humidity, and the little humidor types may not even read below 20%. The EliTech units will read down near zero, but at what accuracy?? I have gone completely overkill and make a PSA dryer using 5A molecular sieve that yields 0.6% humidity or about -45F dew point. I hooked it to my engine and cleared it for about an hour. It has a humidity & temperature probe inside the dipstick tube and the EliTech will log "data" - -not sure what is humidity. That is a key - what is it measuring.

As an experiment I used a juice bottle, dryed to 1%, even heated the container while drying. Then watched the "humidity" rise from 1% to 35% in a few hours. It was empty!!! Then found out that it is PET material and it will absorb water - not adsorb, and a lot of it, so switched to a quart glass jar for the test. I used a painted lid with a build-in elastomer seal. The results of RH rise dropped dramatically, but not to zero. It would rise to about 5% in 5 hours. There is something beyond my ability to measure going on here. There is no way humidity rises in a sealed closed container made of glass. It was cleaned wiped with acetone, heated in the oven to 150F before all this testing. Now for the best part.

During an oil change some was saved for a test. After comparing the empty jar "RH" rise an oil sample - less than a cup - was put in the jar, dryed and data recorded for24hrs. It came up to around 25% RH. Maybe it has water in it? Maybe, but I called and talked to an engineer at a humid sensor company about the effect of the sensor reading oil vapor as water. It is real, and unless we have a good definition of the compounds or $1000 sensor, or both, we can not get an accurate reading on just the RH due to water. We get oil VOC measured as well.

The good news is that:
1: the rise to 25% RH in the jar mirrors data taken with the same instrument in the engine crankcase. &
2. The rise to 25, even 35% is below the critical level in the literature. The jar test and engine test for RH rise was about the same.

One may conclude from this that there is not a puddle in the crankcase system that could collect water and release it with time. I have a 1/2 Raven and my testing has given some level of confidence that it is not condensing and holding water in the container.

What is more critical in the design and application of the system is to:

1. Purge the crankcase first - while it is hot and get the combustion gasses out. Including water vapor
2. Know your instrument - don't expect it to give valid information under 20% RH.
3. Keep desiccant regenerated, especially if in cold climates where temps can drop 50-60F over a few days.
4. Use a HEPA filter on the flow line.

Caveat: There is one final physical process that could allow humidity into a closed container like the engine - that is thermal and barometric induced breathing. If anyone would like to do some calculations, please share. Otherwise I will get around to this eventually.

BTW: Here is a photo of my prototype #1 PSA system - I really like the idea of repurposing an oxygen PSA system for this function. Self regenerating!!

I ran this outside 37F, 96% RH and 10 min "warm up" period measured 0.6% RH from the dryer. 60 psi input, 20 LPM output flow. It will run on a pancake compressor.
 

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  • PSA dryer test bed 1.25.24.pdf
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