I think I will need this to be explained to me. What is the intent for this hole?Here's my new S10 housing with an oil vent (the reusable version of poking a nail in the filter). Beautiful craftsmanship.
I think I will need this to be explained to me. What is the intent for this hole?Here's my new S10 housing with an oil vent (the reusable version of poking a nail in the filter). Beautiful craftsmanship.
I think I will need this to be explained to me. What is the intent for this hole?
The main intent of it is to minimize oil mess during changes. It does this by providing a vent port, or vacuum breaker, if installed with the port facing upward, or a drain port with the port facing down. If installed horizontally, it still provides a vent port, but may or may not be worth it to you. In all cases, it allows you to drain the oil from the filter in a controlled manner.
I experience essentially no oil dripped on the engine at change.
The port threads are 7/16-20 and work with an AN814-4 plug which has an o-ring.
Nice mod and thanks for explaining. Are you planning on putting a safety wire on the plug?
This looks like it was machined to accommodate for the o-ring.
Thanks.... You just saved me $30.00 and free shipping.....
Ron,
Do you have the part number for the O-Ring used on the AN814-4 Plug. I like the idea of draining the oil in a controlled fashion.
Thanks
Gary
So I understand that S15 and a 3/4 16 nipple will be the unit for a lycoming 0360. Will one of these McMaster Carr nipples work and if so what is better or does it matter?
The two examples shown will not work as they are NPT threads, the filter requires a 3/4-16 straight thread nipple.
The controlled drain is definitely nice; little to none oil drips.
Will a horizontal filter drain into the engine if this plug is loosened? Or would I only serve to speed the draining of filter oil once the housing is loose?
I purchased a nipple from usaoilfilters which sells the S15 filters and it is used for the S15 filter. Since the threads are straight on both sides, I am also unsure how the nipple is secured. Is the nipple supposed to be permanent in the case or the filter and if so what holds the nipple permanently?
Here's my new S10 housing with an oil vent (the reusable version of poking a nail in the filter). Beautiful craftsmanship.
I can not find an S10 housing on the USA Oil Filters website, only a C10 that looks like what is in your photos. Is the housing C10 what you are using? Also, if you care to share, which filter element are you using? Thanks. I like the ability to vent and drain the filter prior to removal. Dave
Sorry for the confusion Dave - that's a typo on my part. I corrected my original post - thanks for catching that.
C10 is the housing you want.
The FE15 filter element has a 3/4-16 thread and works with this housing as well.
Here is the parts to replicate my installation:
- C10 Housing
- FE15 Filter element
- QR2 quadring
- FERS1 spring
(from ACS or other parts vendor)
- AN814-4 plug
- MS28775-012 o-ring, 3/8" ID and 1/16" width.
2. Pulling off the filter is /much/ cleaner, IMO. Even after punching holes in the top of my Tempest and letting it drain overnight, I still had quite a bit of excess oil still in the filter when I spun it off. The K&P had practically none remaining.
.
What is the micron rating of the K&P filter? Spent 45-minutes searching for the micron rating of this filter.
Champion publishes that their filter is 25 micron and Champion claims that the Tempest filter is not as good as theirs at 40 micron.
The screen mesh in the K&P filter looks finer than the standard Lycoming screen but the screen will require the user to do 25-hour oil changes and not get the 50-hours between oil changes with leaded fuel recommended for the disposal filter Lycoming recommends. A switch to unleaded fuel will change Lycoming's recommended oil filter change to 100 hours for the disposable spin on oil filter.
Users of the K&P filter will have oil to dispose of ever 25-flight hours and solvent to dispose of that they use to clean the screen filter.
Condor - you can find K&P’s discussion of microns and filtration comparison to paper in their FAQ’s:
https://kandpengineering.com/faqs/
I have a call in to Challenger (who site K&P as their manufacturer at the bottom of their web page) asking if they recommend 25 or 50 - this screen is a totally different animal than the old Lycoming screen, and K&P claims better filtration than with paper, so the answer isn’t obvious. I sort of doubt that they will take a position on it, and I am sure Lycoming won’t…ahh, the joys of “experimental”….
Paul
Although the above sounds great from a less-mess standpoint, it also means that at each start up the filter is empty and has to get re-filled before oil pressure starts to build. A big deal, probably not. Pretty sure the Tempest/Champions have check valves to prevent this.
From their FAQ:
"The medical grade stainless steel cloth that we use is consistent across the entire media surface and is rated at 35 microns"...
Still not crazy about needing to clean it and dispose of the solvent.
Although the above sounds great from a less-mess standpoint, it also means that at each start up the filter is empty and has to get re-filled before oil pressure starts to build. A big deal, probably not. Pretty sure the Tempest/Champions have check valves to prevent this.
The check valve prevents oil from draining back down the pump passage when the vernatherm cools and opens. The goal is to keep the pump primed, not to keep the filter full. There is no check valve to block flow from the filter into the engine.
Good info on ADB valves, the 45deg adapters all use the 48108 filters, with the ADB valve, so the takeaway may be that if you have a 45 deg adapter you should probably stick with ADB filter. Please correct me if I’m wrong.
I have the 45 degree adapter, and was concerned about the K&P not having an anti-drain-back (ADB) valve. What I see in my oil pressure graphs is the time for the oil pressure to buildup to 25psi, which I believe is considered the minimum, grew from roughly 3 seconds with the Champion to about 4 seconds with the K&P.
As Walt said, is this probably not a big deal.
Why is drain back a concern after a quick turn around and not after a day, week, or longer?
Dan, are you referring to the rubber diaphragm top side to the 8 oil inlet holes on the bottom of the filter?
2 weeks ago I opened a CH 48110-1 (Champion) and there was no rubber diaphragm incorporated in this position.
Different topic.
Apart from the male/female bottom job, what is the difference between the 48110 and 48108?
Yes, but thank you, I stand corrected. Not all have an anti-drainback valve, including the Tempest 110's I've been using with an AC-style adapter.
The 110 has no pressure relief valve. The 108 does have a PRV in the element end cap....and, apparently, an anti-drainback rubber ring.
Yes, but thank you, I stand corrected. Not all have an anti-drainback valve, including the Tempest 110's I've been using with an AC-style adapter.
The 110 has no pressure relief valve. The 108 does have a PRV in the element end cap....and, apparently, an anti-drainback rubber ring.
Does the oil to the oil cooler goes after it has gone thru the filter or it is from the pump to the oil cooler and then to the filter?
The internal pressure bypass for the 108 has been said by Tempest to be 12-14 psi. Do we know the bypass pressure at which the Lycoming base opens (110)?
Does the oil to the oil cooler goes after it has gone thru the filter or it is from the pump to the oil cooler and then to the filter?
Only after the vernatherm has closed.
Actually, there is always some flow through the cooler. An extended vernatherm forces all of it through the cooler.
.
PC Racing - PCS4C seems to be the equivalent of the S15, except it about $70 cheaper, has the nut and hole for safety wire and is available on Amazon. The specs are the same as the S15. Does anyone have any experience with this filter?
https://pcracingusa.com/shop/flo-oil/spin-on/harley-davidson-pcs4c-pcs4b/