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Canopy escape hammer
- Thread starter Tom Snow
- Start date
See this video
Based on this EAA chapter testing I invested in one:
https://youtu.be/fRvQxGl4kt4
Tricycle gear vans RVs are known to flip over in wet sod or gopher holes/ trenches
Cal
Based on this EAA chapter testing I invested in one:
https://youtu.be/fRvQxGl4kt4
Tricycle gear vans RVs are known to flip over in wet sod or gopher holes/ trenches
Cal
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I think all aircraft with the gear down will flip, unless they have tundra tires.
I got the same one. I mounted it between the seats just forward of the flap enclosure so either I or my passenger can get it easily.
I bought one of those glass breaker tools a few years ago. I found it to be too lightweight and weak for canopy plexiglass. It seems to be intended for auto glass, not plexi.
I bought the Gerber LMF II knife to solve the problem. Some Army aviation units have issued this knife to pilots so they can chop out of canopies and doors in a crash. It's really hefty and well made.
I have the knife and sheath velcroed between the seats in my RV-14A. If I flip, I can just pull it off the velcro, and use the butt end to crack the plexiglass. Leave the knife in the sheath, otherwise the pointy end could bounce back into your face.
I bought the Gerber LMF II knife to solve the problem. Some Army aviation units have issued this knife to pilots so they can chop out of canopies and doors in a crash. It's really hefty and well made.
I have the knife and sheath velcroed between the seats in my RV-14A. If I flip, I can just pull it off the velcro, and use the butt end to crack the plexiglass. Leave the knife in the sheath, otherwise the pointy end could bounce back into your face.
I bought a Harbor Freight crescent wrench with enough heft to hopefully break a canopy that I velcroed to the side panel, as well as an Anti-Splat canopy cracker. I also have a Flyboys Accessories canopy breaker. If I end up inverted in a cotton field, maybe one of them will be within reach. And the crescent wrench can be used to remove a main tire and wheel in case of a flat.
Consider a pair of gloves, a tool to break canopy and something useful for digging.
When my RV4 flipped, the roll bar did a good job of busting the canopy. Due to forward momentum, the roll bar bent and sunk into ground. I had about 3 inches between canopy skirt and the ground. Even if all plexiglass was removed, I could not get out. I prematurely released my seatbelts and landed on my shoulders. Then started breaking away chunks of plexiglas and digging with my hands. A difficult task upsidedown on your shoulders. Would have been better to dig hole before releasing seatbelts.
I thought I had a hole big enough to get out but ended up getting stuck. My head went through but not my chest. Luckily people in a near by house seen the crash. They came and lifted the tail of the airplane so we could get out.
What ever tool you choose needs to be easily accessible, and small enough to manipulate.
When my RV4 flipped, the roll bar did a good job of busting the canopy. Due to forward momentum, the roll bar bent and sunk into ground. I had about 3 inches between canopy skirt and the ground. Even if all plexiglass was removed, I could not get out. I prematurely released my seatbelts and landed on my shoulders. Then started breaking away chunks of plexiglas and digging with my hands. A difficult task upsidedown on your shoulders. Would have been better to dig hole before releasing seatbelts.
I thought I had a hole big enough to get out but ended up getting stuck. My head went through but not my chest. Luckily people in a near by house seen the crash. They came and lifted the tail of the airplane so we could get out.
What ever tool you choose needs to be easily accessible, and small enough to manipulate.
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This is the one I have. It's pretty hefty compared to the orange breaker used in the video. Cheap too!
https://www.amazon.com/WONDER-POINT...b3-b9aa-8090343e3345&pd_rd_i=B08DMRDKPS&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/WONDER-POINT...b3-b9aa-8090343e3345&pd_rd_i=B08DMRDKPS&psc=1
Peter Costick
Well Known Member
I have collapsible camping spade, made by Gerber I think, it has a spike on the back and the spade on the front. Folds down to about 5 inches square or so. It came in a small bag which I have attached to the front of the spar with velcro.
The thinking was if I flip it I may have to smash the canopy and dig my way out, assuming I am concious and mobile.
The thinking was if I flip it I may have to smash the canopy and dig my way out, assuming I am concious and mobile.
Wow, great advice, and sounds like a story about 100,000 people on this site would love to hear. Did you have a chance to write it up?
bwagner
Active Member
My EAA chapter recently held a forced landing cockpit escape test with a donated RV4 canopy.
There was a choice of one of the commonly proposed tools including the USAF surplus canopy escape one, that ubiquitous automotive glass breaker/belt slitter, a commercial pick-like escape hammer, a small hatchet, an awl, screwdriver and EDC knife.
Initial attempts from that cockpit's close confines with screw driver, punch, glass breaker and even the pick-like survival tool proved fruitless. They all apparently lacked sufficient mass since only a few inches of swing is possible. They did nothing more than leave divots after tens of strikes.
A quick successful breakout was made with both the survival hatchet and USAF tool.
Note that in both successful breakout cases, the resulting canopy shards lacerated the tester's hand, so the glove recommendation is a good one.
With that example, I installed a small demolition tool that has both considerable mass and a pry head to snap larger pieces out once the hole is made
Mounted within seated reach on the flaps motor linkage cover
Expect the best...prepare for the worst
There was a choice of one of the commonly proposed tools including the USAF surplus canopy escape one, that ubiquitous automotive glass breaker/belt slitter, a commercial pick-like escape hammer, a small hatchet, an awl, screwdriver and EDC knife.
Initial attempts from that cockpit's close confines with screw driver, punch, glass breaker and even the pick-like survival tool proved fruitless. They all apparently lacked sufficient mass since only a few inches of swing is possible. They did nothing more than leave divots after tens of strikes.
A quick successful breakout was made with both the survival hatchet and USAF tool.
Note that in both successful breakout cases, the resulting canopy shards lacerated the tester's hand, so the glove recommendation is a good one.
With that example, I installed a small demolition tool that has both considerable mass and a pry head to snap larger pieces out once the hole is made
Mounted within seated reach on the flaps motor linkage cover
Expect the best...prepare for the worst
What tool is that?
Norman CYYJ
Well Known Member
Where ever you mount your break out tool make sure it is mounted such that the possible sudden stop doesn't cause it break free and injury you, cuz then you might not need it.
There have been some very good threads on VAF forum over the years.
I'd like to know more about the USAF device that is mentioned. Is it the one on the far left in the picture? It is hard to tell what it does, or how, by looking at that picture.
Oh I see now. For those unfamiliar: It has a heavy steel handle that is kind of like a small dumb bell, with a short stubby unsharpened knife blade sticking out from one end. It uses a quick pin to keep it in the holder.
Oh I see now. For those unfamiliar: It has a heavy steel handle that is kind of like a small dumb bell, with a short stubby unsharpened knife blade sticking out from one end. It uses a quick pin to keep it in the holder.
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A few years ago, we sent Ed (from the Van's proto shop) into one of the test bed RV-12 fuselages and asked him to "get out". He's strong, and especially strong-willed. (Engineering would often send him after tough fasteners, lids etc, to use "the grip of Ed").
His first tool was one of the plastic handled/lightweight auto escape tools (similar to the orange one in the first post). He was unable to break out with this tool given the limited swing mobility.
Next up was one of the "fancy" (ok still $10, but all metal) tools. First couple attempts had the same affect, until he concentrated his blows close to the canopy frame. This provided the resistance needed to break some chunks of the plexi out.
I think we all ditched our plastic tools that day and bought the aluminum handled versions!
His first tool was one of the plastic handled/lightweight auto escape tools (similar to the orange one in the first post). He was unable to break out with this tool given the limited swing mobility.
Next up was one of the "fancy" (ok still $10, but all metal) tools. First couple attempts had the same affect, until he concentrated his blows close to the canopy frame. This provided the resistance needed to break some chunks of the plexi out.
I think we all ditched our plastic tools that day and bought the aluminum handled versions!
Tankerpilot75
Well Known Member
I have two orange canopy hammers installed, one on each side of the cover over the electric fuel pump between the pilot/copilot seats. On top of the cover is a small fire extinguisher. On the copilot’s side is a pocket where I also keep a small ball ping hammer in case the orange hammers need assistance.
This location does make it a little difficult at CI time when the electric fuel pump filter needs to be cleaned with new o-rings installed. However, I find the extra time very minimal when considering the advantages of having those safety features quickly accessible.
This location does make it a little difficult at CI time when the electric fuel pump filter needs to be cleaned with new o-rings installed. However, I find the extra time very minimal when considering the advantages of having those safety features quickly accessible.
Big-a** K-BAR USMC serrated edge fixed blade knife. Leather sheath. And I always wear gloves........
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I am working on a source for the USAF unit. It apparently is still used in AH1 Apache. Have inquiries out, it is still being manufactured. Itis NSN 1680-00-296-8156 Canopy Breaker Tool. What is not available is the holder...
Here's a single one for sale:
www.arizonacustomknives.com
And here's one at a slightly better price:
www.arizonacustomknives.com
Dave
Military Aircraft Cockpit Canopy Breaker Escape Tool
Military Aircraft Cockpit Canopy Breaker Escape Tool. This is a rare and hard piece to find. Would make a great addition to any collection. It shows signs of wear, scratches, dings, otherwise good condition. Has a locking pin in the butt of the handle with a split ring.
And here's one at a slightly better price:
Jet Pilot Egress Knife/Canopy Breaker Tool
A note from Marv, on the us militaria forum about this item:"I have been told that these have been around for a long time , but this is only the second one I have ever seen...the only one with the mounting bracket. It is designed to break the jet canopy in an emergency. I had thought these were...
Dave
Well, they are pretty proud of those.............Here's a single one for sale:
Military Aircraft Cockpit Canopy Breaker Escape Tool
Military Aircraft Cockpit Canopy Breaker Escape Tool. This is a rare and hard piece to find. Would make a great addition to any collection. It shows signs of wear, scratches, dings, otherwise good condition. Has a locking pin in the butt of the handle with a split ring.
And here's one at a slightly better price:
Jet Pilot Egress Knife/Canopy Breaker Tool
A note from Marv, on the us militaria forum about this item:"I have been told that these have been around for a long time , but this is only the second one I have ever seen...the only one with the mounting bracket. It is designed to break the jet canopy in an emergency. I had thought these were...
Dave
I bought one of these military egress tools used on eBay quite some time back and have yet to find a good place to mount it in my -7 tip up. Kind of heavy, too. Guess that's the idea. I bought a couple of those ASA canopy snappers and stamped gallon marks on both sides for dual use as dip sticks. Cord loop so issue of dropping is minimized. They shove in behind the arm rest upholstery on other sides nicely.
Sorry no picture, but I welded a piece of steel rod, turned to a point, to the bottom end of the rear stick of my rv8.
A PIP Pin held the stick in place and I could easily reach behind me and pull the pin and then the aft stick to use to break the canopy. Never had to use it, but the stick is long enough for two hands and to pry with.
No extra weight or devices to mount or try to find in a crash.
A PIP Pin held the stick in place and I could easily reach behind me and pull the pin and then the aft stick to use to break the canopy. Never had to use it, but the stick is long enough for two hands and to pry with.
No extra weight or devices to mount or try to find in a crash.
I have this one, looks to be sold out right now, hopefully it's just temporary - https://flyboyaccessories.com/products/chisel-style-canopy-breaker
I think having to dig through some dirt or vegetation needs to be considered. From many of the flipped RV's I have seen breaking the canopy has already happened.
I found mine on ebay years ago and it has been attached to several different airplanes. BTW I was told that the way it's used is to scratch an "X" on the canopy then aim for the center of the X. They go back to at least the F-4, and I have seen them in an A-10.
NSN 1680-00-296-8156 Canopy Breaker Tool. ( Military spec one. Weight about 1.5 pounds so it has heft.) I found out the current new government price is $1705 a piece. (DOD procurement at its best, reminds me of hammers and toilet seats.) Can buy minimum order of 10. Not in my budget, thank-you. So maybe $350 used on ebay is a steal.
