If memory serves, John's 9 is a poster child for baffle and inlet sealing done right.
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John, tell 'em about your temperature fix on the right side.
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Ok Dan, I will tell them. Nice meeting you by the way, it was a real honor.
First off, on the right side, the Lycoming cylinders are pretty far forward. I installed the ramps to the upper cowl per the instructions, but didn’t have the right ramp as far forward as possible. Once the baffles were cut and installed, the right side clearance between the cowl ramp and the cylinder was only an inch or so. During phase 1, I was able to keep the chts in check, mainly due to mild coastal weather. But after a while, I wasnt happy with chts on climb out.
So not wanting to change the baffles, I just moved the center section of the right cowl ramp forward and glassed in a smooth transition before paint.
Its not perfect, but works fairly well. Coming back from Osh, takeoff from KVGT at 105F, I had to reduce climb rate and increase airspeed to keep chts in check, but did not have to pull back power.
In addition, I always had a low oil temp, so I blocked off 3/4” of oil cooler and this also helped bring down chts.
One will also notice the bottom seal is removable. When removing the bottom cowl, I loosen the 3 stainless screws and drop down the seal assembly. Makes removing the lower cowl much easier. The seal is just glued to the stock metal band with contact cement