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Upper cowl pic

climberrn

climberrn

Well Known Member
If I could get a pic of the upper cowl ramp where the forward prop governor is I’d really appreciate it. I have the stock ramps from the original engine but with the forward governor, the left side will need to be cut. A pic with the baffling in place through the inlet would be fine.

Thanks.
 
Thanks. Going to start cutting away at my ramps. The plans I have don’t show that part. Easy enough to figure out.
 

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It seemed to me that I could do better than the hole full of scrap foam idea, so instead of the stair step cutout, I cut out out more of the ramp and then laid in some fiberglass to make a concave transition in that area. I then modified the baffling over the governor to mate up with it.

I don't foresee any problems with this but I'm not flying yet so we shall see.
 

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Desert Rat said:
It seemed to me that I could do better than the hole full of scrap foam idea, so instead of the stair step cutout, I cut out out more of the ramp and then laid in some fiberglass to make a concave transition in that area. I then modified the baffling over the governor to mate up with it.

I don't foresee any problems with this but I'm not flying yet so we shall see.
Click to expand...
I like that. Just started cutting today. Trying to figure out how to keep that area sealed.

On another note, the -14 governor bracket vans sells is aluminum!?!? Bought it since it was only $9 but going to use it as a template to make a steel one. Yours looks steel. Where did you get it?
 
Oh, one more thing. The RV14 baffle cutout under the governor is is sized for a hartzell. My jihistroj is a smaller diameter so that gap was too big for the pre-cut rv14 baffle rubber to close the gap. I see you've got the PCU-5000 governor which I think is basically the same size as mine so if you're using the rv14 baffle kit you may have the same issue.

Since I was modifying that area anyway, I made another fat C shape out of aluminum to bridge that space. I ended up with a gap around the whole governor of about 1/4" which I just filled in with RTV. Theres no rubber baffle material at all around the governor.

I debated on using nut plates to sandwich this all together but ultimately decided that it was overkill given how infrequently you have to take that governor off. I ended up just using pop rivets in that area. If I ever have to remove the governor it's a pretty small job to cut the rtv and drill out the pop rivets.

If this picture doest make it clear you can shoot me a pm. I'll help however I can
 

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Terry,

You have a socket head screw in the middle of the two screws that hold the air filter bracket on. There appears to be a clearance hole cut/drilled for this socket head in the air filter bracket. What's the socket head screw for?

Sorry for the thread drift everybody.
 
If you build this per print, all the pan head screws in that filter frame go through the baffles into nutplates on the upper snorkel flange. When you remove that frame to get the filter out there's nothing holding the upper end of the snorkel. It's just hanging in space from the studs on the fuel servo.

There's enough flex in that setup that when you put it back together you have to wiggle everything a bit to line it back up and get the screws started. Minor annoyance, but I also I didn't like the idea of the whole snorkel just being cantilevered off the fuel controller like that.

To fix this probably non-existent problem, I just added a couple of extra nutplates to the snorkel flange (the one you asked about and it's twin on the outboard side) This way I can remove the filter and there are still a couple of screws attaching the upper end of the snorkel to the baffles. That one is an allen screw because it would be hard to get a screwdriver in there under the governor if a guy needs to remove the snorkel.

Like I said, probably a nonexistent problem, but it only took like 20 minutes to add a couple of nutplates so now its extra-nonexistent.
 
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