Im working on the elevators right now. Looking at the nut welded onto sheet metal (elevator trim cable anchor bracket WD-415) just seems cheep and possibly prone to failure. Also, the threads inside the nut seems like it might cause cable wear? Is this part good to go, or should I do something different with it. Also, are there any issues with the elevator and trim tab build I need to be aware of. Thanks.
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Trim cable anchor bracket WD-415
- Thread starter togaflyer
- Start date
WD-415
I bought a set of machined ones from IFLYRV10.com. Worked well. Used PEM nuts to mount them to ease final assembly and adjustment later...
I bought a set of machined ones from IFLYRV10.com. Worked well. Used PEM nuts to mount them to ease final assembly and adjustment later...
Wayne Gillispie
Well Known Member
Instead of pop riveting per plans, I used mini corner nutplates and #6 pan head screws. Otherwise, enjoy trying to remove and install elevator halves for painting. Originally the nut was only welded on one side, now both front and back. I doubt you will break the nut off if it is welded good.
jerseypilot83
Active Member
I am new to the forums and I’m
Building my first rv10. I, too, was looking at the structural integrity of the plates. I went ahead and purchased a set of machined ones on iflyrv10 as well. Thanks to all for sharing. I will update how well these perform vs stock part from Vans.
Emp almost done…. Going to start wings next month
super excited!!
Building my first rv10. I, too, was looking at the structural integrity of the plates. I went ahead and purchased a set of machined ones on iflyrv10 as well. Thanks to all for sharing. I will update how well these perform vs stock part from Vans.
Emp almost done…. Going to start wings next month
super excited!!
Auburntsts
Well Known Member
For future reference, the riveted on ones (properly welded nut) per the plans work just fine. They are a pain to remove, but it’s doable. In 7-1/2 years I’ve removed them exactly once when I removed the elevators for painting so it’s not something that gets done with any regularity. Build on!
Last edited:
RJornd
Member
I have a couple of questions...
1. I've heard about a lack of communication and long wait times for shipments from IFLYRV10.com. What was your experience like?
2. What size PEM nuts did you use?
My purchase from them was a long time ago so I am not sure of their current status or communication.
I used PEM must for 6-32 screws I believe. I know of some that have just threaded the holes instead, though.
I used 6-32 pem nuts also and countersunk the mounts. Gently pressed them in with a flush set.
I do think you need to be mindful of drilling the holes to the specific diameter required for the pem. You only need enough grip to hold the rotation until the screws tighten. There isn’t a lot of meat to play with and they aren’t steel.
I’ve had them in and out twice. Initially then paint at 300h. All is good. It makes elevator R&R as well as adjustment of the trim tab much simpler than the original design.
I do think you need to be mindful of drilling the holes to the specific diameter required for the pem. You only need enough grip to hold the rotation until the screws tighten. There isn’t a lot of meat to play with and they aren’t steel.
I’ve had them in and out twice. Initially then paint at 300h. All is good. It makes elevator R&R as well as adjustment of the trim tab much simpler than the original design.
Another way - I had some locking thread inserts on hand but the thickness of the billet was too thin so made some “chicklets” to provide depth for the thread inserts.
-Bob
-Bob
I don’t think it’ll wear the cable.. the cable doesn’t screw in and out during use..
