Wishing you and yours a happy, safe and RV-filled weekend.
v/r,dr
The floor under the front seat area should be on with screws and come up easy. Its also the panel you can install foorwells for rear pax if you don't have them already. The aft floor is riveted, and it's no biggie to put access panels if you need. But, the best routing is often down the sides above the floor. I routed most everything down the sides . I also made sidewall closeout panels to keep rudder cable and wiring from fouling with passengers and such.
What I’ve done, and you could possibly consider:
. I sanded the inside of the cowl with 80 grit paper.
. Blow off dust with compressed air or vacuum it well with a strong shop vac.
. Wipe down with a clean rag and a solvent, like acetone.
. Paint entire inner surface with bilge paint from your local boat store. (This bilge paint is made to be used on fiberglass, and it is resistant to common boat bilge contaminants like fuel, oil, hydraulic fluids). I used a brush on the first coat to make sure it was forced down into the glass weave/pores. Used a foam roller for the second coat.
. Cover susceptible areas with the stick on aluminum shield sold by Vans. I also put 1/8” fiberfrax under the aluminum shield material in areas where the hot exhaust pipes are close to the cowl.
This has held up very well for 3 1/2 years now, including the bilge paint.
After the brake out force diminished to about 13lbs again I installed new Belleville washers. Here are various pics of the flange & fork surfaces as well as nut, steel washer and Belleville washers. Unfortunately I didn't take a picture of the lower fork surface where the Belleville washers meet the fork.
There is an odd streak on the inside of the right Belleville washer but I don't know if that has any significance. I hope someone with more knowledge than me can spot a smoking gun here
I revived my bushings only a week after ordering them! Awesome.
The only issue is the hole in my stick for the grub screw. I have the pre-wired sticks from tosten - and the hole is on the front side of the stick. This means the bushing angles the grip toward the panel, not away!
Your hole seems to be on the aft (pilot) side of the stick.
I think I have two options:
1. Mark the existing hole in the stick into the opposite side if the bushing, tap drill a new hole and then tap 10-32.
2. Somehow blind drill the stick on the forward side, to match where the threaded hole is on the bushing.
I’m thinking option 1 is going to be more achievable.
OFF TOPIC:
Please consider donating yearly to help keep this American 1-person pirate ship afloat:
Get your VansAirForce.net Charity Cap!
Older issues of the ‘VAF News’ can be found at:
THE VAF LIST (a list of RV-related lists)
v/r,dr
How to determine if there's a side load in the control column?
I've put thick/thick + thick/thin washers around the bearing, and the movement feels smooth. Not sure how I'm supposed to "feel" the side load. Is it something that you'll know if it's there? Or do I need to try different washer combinations and use the one that feels best? That'll be quite some...
vansairforce.net
RV4 create inspection panels in floor-is it structural
Hello all I’ve been a long time lurker on the forum and recently bought a nice low time RV4 from the builder/owner. I’ve bugged him with lots of questions already! I’ve searched on the forum and can’t find much information on the subject. I’m replacing some avionics and running wiring through...
vansairforce.net
Question about heat shielding front lower cowl
Removed the lower cowl on my RV-9A at 12 hours total flight time. Noted this appearance. Comments on what this discoloration is? Don't see any indication of melting or deformation, on the outside of this area. Should I install heat shield material?
vansairforce.net
. I sanded the inside of the cowl with 80 grit paper.
. Blow off dust with compressed air or vacuum it well with a strong shop vac.
. Wipe down with a clean rag and a solvent, like acetone.
. Paint entire inner surface with bilge paint from your local boat store. (This bilge paint is made to be used on fiberglass, and it is resistant to common boat bilge contaminants like fuel, oil, hydraulic fluids). I used a brush on the first coat to make sure it was forced down into the glass weave/pores. Used a foam roller for the second coat.
. Cover susceptible areas with the stick on aluminum shield sold by Vans. I also put 1/8” fiberfrax under the aluminum shield material in areas where the hot exhaust pipes are close to the cowl.
This has held up very well for 3 1/2 years now, including the bilge paint.
Deburring Technique
Hi All, Deburring holes is no biggy when you can get a square-on approach to the hole with your tool. However, when it comes to tight areas, there's no way to get a square-on approach. I'm working on deburring the holes in elevator C-channel front and rear spars. It's clear that when creating...
vansairforce.net
Nose wheel brake out force keeps getting lower
On recent landings I encountered nose shimmy so I took the wheel fairings off and adjusted the brake out force to be ~26lbs (it was about 10lbs). I also made sure the Belleville washers were installed correctly. That worked for a small time but the shimmy reappeared after 5-10 landings. Lifted...
vansairforce.net
There is an odd streak on the inside of the right Belleville washer but I don't know if that has any significance. I hope someone with more knowledge than me can spot a smoking gun here
Tosten Grip Interference with Panel Fix (I think)
I know this came up a few years ago, but I just wanted to put this out there for any others who have installed a Tosten grip on the RV-14 and found that due to the forward tilt of the grip full forward throw wasn't available. I have one military style grip and one CS-8 and both slightly touch...
vansairforce.net
The only issue is the hole in my stick for the grub screw. I have the pre-wired sticks from tosten - and the hole is on the front side of the stick. This means the bushing angles the grip toward the panel, not away!
Your hole seems to be on the aft (pilot) side of the stick.
I think I have two options:
1. Mark the existing hole in the stick into the opposite side if the bushing, tap drill a new hole and then tap 10-32.
2. Somehow blind drill the stick on the forward side, to match where the threaded hole is on the bushing.
I’m thinking option 1 is going to be more achievable.
OFF TOPIC:
Please consider donating yearly to help keep this American 1-person pirate ship afloat:
Get your VansAirForce.net Charity Cap!
VAF Charity Cap: Help your charity and promote this site.
Get the cap all the cool kids are wearing! I don’t get a penny. It’s around $15. $5 more if you want your N-number on the back (I put 'STAFF' on the back of mine because it makes me laugh. Put STAFF on yours too if it makes you smile). And down the road $10 to the charity of your choice...
vansairforce.net
Older issues of the ‘VAF News’ can be found at:
Doug's Area ...The VAF News, About VAF, My Resume
Pushed out every now and then.
www.vansairforce.net
THE VAF LIST (a list of RV-related lists)
THE VAF LIST (a list of RV-related lists)
The VAF List ...a list of RV-related lists. RV-related things you might want to browse over (a closed post that is sticky and maintained by dr). Link to this in 'Links' in the menu. v/r,dr Small businesses that help bring you this list of RV-related lists: 360 Avionics www.360Avionics.com Ace...
vansairforce.net
