Larry DeCamp
Well Known Member
I have read comments about stainless screws freezing and breaking. Is there a magic juice to put on the screws for use in rivnuts ?
BoeLube user here because I haven;t used up the sticks I bought years ago….but Beeswax works well too.
That said, this year at Airventure I visited B&B and bought several hundred (of each size and type) of cad-plated steel screws to start replacing the stainless I have been using for years, simply becasue I am tired of stripped heads and galled threads. Not goign to go through all the airplanes and replace everything at once, but as the SS screws wear out, I’ll be back to using what Van’s provided in the first place…..
Never had a properly threaded one seize or fall, and Phillips head screws will cam out and strip long before a tire head screw will. That is the whole point of the torx design.Another fan of cad plated steel screws. The stainless ones seize, gall and strip too easy. They cam out the driver head and also snap off too easily.
I’m lNever had a properly threaded one seize or fall, and Phillips head screws will cam out and strip long before a tire head screw will. That is the whole point of the torx design.
I use SS torx screws on all fairings, wingtips, wheel pants and interior panels. Almost 500 hours, 4 condition inspections and no issues.
I do replace them every other time they are removed. Bought 1000 for $53.
The way to eliminate gaulling out Phillip head screws is ti use a bit of coarse grinding compound on the driver tip. Usually will take out the worst galled screws!Same here. After 18 years I decided to shorten my condition inspection time by trying to eliminate the added time every year dealing with a couple stripped or galled SS screws.
FYI and the above is a good reminder but according to Vans any access panels to include wing root fairings are NOT structural.Maybe a little off topic....I'm sure I'm preaching to the choir, but if anyone replaces regular cad steel screws with SS because they may "look better" for your application, be vigilant and make sure they are not in anything STRUCTURAL. The tensile strength of "regular" screws is quite a bit different than SS butter. SS is fine for holding on cover plates, panels, etc...but when Van's specifies a particular screw for a particular application, you can be assured they had a good reason, and that reason may be because they did not want something to depart the aircraft. Just a friendly reminder....
Also, standard cad plated screws are generally grade 5. You can find comparable specs in stainless if you look a bit…Maybe a little off topic....I'm sure I'm preaching to the choir, but if anyone replaces regular cad steel screws with SS because they may "look better" for your application, be vigilant and make sure they are not in anything STRUCTURAL. The tensile strength of "regular" screws is quite a bit different than SS butter. SS is fine for holding on cover plates, panels, etc...but when Van's specifies a particular screw for a particular application, you can be assured they had a good reason, and that reason may be because they did not want something to depart the aircraft. Just a friendly reminder....
True...I never said they were.... simply reminding everyone not to replace any called-out screw without due diligence.FYI and the above is a good reminder but according to Vans any access panels to include wing root fairings are NOT structural.
I also heard from a friend that those products are reusable?On that subject - Did you know that the Aussies were the first to invent condoms from sheeps intestines back in the 1920's?
I have several Vessel JIS drivers and they work much better than Phillips head drivers but they also can destroy the head of a stainless steel screw. The screwdriver is much much harder than the stainless screw so driver can easily round out the cross in the head of a SS screw. This is especially true for #6 SS screws. Yes, I have JIS screwdriver with bit for #6 screw but that does not completely solve the issue and in fact the large driver bit works a bit better. I kick myself every condition inspection for putting in #6 screws. Changing to steel CAD screws helps some, using JIS driver helps some, using Boelube helps some, and replacing screws often helps some.The biggest problems I’ve had with Philips head drivers are fixed with using JIS screwdrivers. JIS or Japanese Industrial Standard screwdrivers fit Philips screws better than any other screwdriver. You can get them on Amazon. Type in Vessel JIS .
Be careful using stainless steel with aluminum, they are at opposite ends of the cathodic scale. You will end up sacrificing the aluminum not the stainless steel, especially around a salt water environmentI have several Vessel JIS drivers and they work much better than Phillips head drivers but they also can destroy the head of a stainless steel screw. The screwdriver is much much harder than the stainless screw so driver can easily round out the cross in the head of a SS screw. This is especially true for #6 SS screws. Yes, I have JIS screwdriver with bit for #6 screw but that does not completely solve the issue and in fact the large driver bit works a bit better. I kick myself every condition inspection for putting in #6 screws. Changing to steel CAD screws helps some, using JIS driver helps some, using Boelube helps some, and replacing screws often helps some.
YLMV (Your Luck May Vary)
As far as your PMS goes, the new VAF system calls those "Conversations". So if look toward the upper right corner of your computer screen within the blue VAF banner you will see your user name N427EF just to the right of the "Search..." box. Then next icon over from your user name is a little envelope, between your user name and the bell icon. If you hover your mouse pointer over that envelope icon you will see the word "Conversations" pop up. Select that icon.I know this is out of place and a bit embarrassing but can someone point me to my PMs?
I am trying to reply to a couple of PMs and after clicking every square millimeter of this website I cannot find a link to my pms?