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Silly mistake
- Thread starter britbuilder
- Start date
Talk to the Mothership, Model, position, etc.
I’ll guess from an engineering standpoint point, one of those pull rivets are what my roommate called “static redundancy” and that Vans will say “Relax, and Build On”.
I’ll guess from an engineering standpoint point, one of those pull rivets are what my roommate called “static redundancy” and that Vans will say “Relax, and Build On”.
RV8Squaz
Well Known Member
All you need is enough room to get your hand and a tool in there. I would drill out rivets on the underside. If well practiced, I bet you can have enough rivets drilled out in an hour or two. A picture of the whole thing with approximate position would help.
Practice, practice, practice before drilling on the elevator. Assuming you're dealing with AN426AD3-X, my technique is to center punch on the dimple, start a small hole with a number 45 or 47, then drill with a number 40 down to the bottom of the dimple, snap off head with an appropriately sized pin punch, and then push shank through with same punch. Sometimes, if you're accurate and lucky the #40 drill bit will punch out the rivet.
Practice, practice, practice before drilling on the elevator. Assuming you're dealing with AN426AD3-X, my technique is to center punch on the dimple, start a small hole with a number 45 or 47, then drill with a number 40 down to the bottom of the dimple, snap off head with an appropriately sized pin punch, and then push shank through with same punch. Sometimes, if you're accurate and lucky the #40 drill bit will punch out the rivet.
If me, I would see if there is a tool to do a remote pop rivet pull. Two rivets are there for a reason. It's not structurally critical in that location, serving mainly to prevent spreading of that rib member, which is likely to be very small given it's secured by the skin. You're the airplane manufacturer, so it's your call. Maybe some other kind of fastener will work in place of the rivet.
andoman
Well Known Member
Consider a small screw and nut. You may still have to drill out a few rivets for access but it’s guaranteed to be less invasive. If you are creative I bet you can get right in there as it sits.
drinkwater
Member
Beg/borrow/steal a numatx squeeze riveter and see if you can weave it in there somehow?
The difference between a beginner and a pro is in how well you hide the mistake…As Ando suggested, a screw and nut and I concur…I’d recommend a wrench head or torx or Allen head screw…4-40…5-36 and 6-32 all work well
5-36 for the 1/8”
You can make an extended tool way easier than drilling rivets out…use a nylok and you’re good to go.
Ps…..pro’s don’t tell on themselves as to making a mistake….we use terms like…feature, not flaw! And bank on no one else finding those “features”
5-36 for the 1/8”
You can make an extended tool way easier than drilling rivets out…use a nylok and you’re good to go.
Ps…..pro’s don’t tell on themselves as to making a mistake….we use terms like…feature, not flaw! And bank on no one else finding those “features”
That type of connection is a shear joint. It takes at least 2 fasters to carry shear.
Dave
Dave
I had 4 rivets that took 30 hrs of dissembly/reassembly to correct, 5 min of setting the rivets. I dragged my feet until it had to be addressed. Do what is needed (Vans) and move on. When you are in the dark, over the mountains at 14,000 feet in IMC and getting knocked around, this is not something you want to think about. It is avoidable - fix it.
