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Hung the Engine

Hi all,

This is my first post to this thread. I have finished the wing, empennage and am mostly done with the fuselage. I put the plane up on its gear a couple of weeks ago preparatory to hanging the engine last weekend. I didn't want to put all the weight of the engine on the fuselage on saw horses. It will definitely be a little more awkward working inside, but I had the engine and don't have the panel yet. Anyway, here it is with my puppy Lucy. Hope I did the picture correctly.

 
Looks great, Mike! Soon, you won't have to sit in it and make airplane noises with your mouth. (You know, the ones that cause your dog to look at you funny...) :D You'll just hit the start button to make noise!

Thanks for the inspiration!
 
First Trip Outside

My long-running RV-8 project made it's first trip out of the garage last Sunday, after I finally got it up on the landing gear. My engine an prop will be coming soon, barring any more supply delays from Superior, and I wanted to have it on the gear before trying to mount the engine. Eagle Engines in Redding, CA is building me a 180 hp IO-360 with one P-Mag. I'm thinking about putting an E-Mag on the other side. American Propellers is putting together a Whirlwind 200RV that should be shipping with the engine. Other than getting those mounted, my next project will be to start working on the canopy. Hopefully it will be warm enough by the time I get back into town next weekend.

I'm still looking for a partner, so if anyone near Santa Rosa, CA wants to be a half-owner in an RV-8 project, send me an e-mail or pm.

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Year One

Well, here is what took me a year to do. There was a lot of 'Life' and 'Work' taking time away from me. Today I installed the first 2 skins on the Mid Fuselage. Those Conical bends on the bottom aft are a bitch.

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Well, here's my official on-the-gear picture. All the glass is done except for the cowl and the wingtips, so it's a bit further along than usual at this point. The canopy, a new rollbar, and all the cockpit guts are ready too. Painted the interior and all the bits last weekend and today. Even the belly is painted; did that before I attached the gear and rolled it. I'm gonna finish paint the canopy assembly next, while I have the booth clean, then I'll hang the 390 and fit the cowl.

 
Dan, lookin good!!

I really like the Show Planes fastback, nice setup-----you need to post a better shot of the aft fuse. And the canopy setup.
 
The aft turtledeck is just ....taller. I suspect most folks don't realize you also replace the cockpit rails, as well as trim back the boot cowl skin and install a removable fiberglass section between the boot cowl and the instrument panel.

The only crazy part about doing one of these is dragging a perfectly good QB fuselage into the shop and drilling out 300-350 rivets <g>

Canopy photos soon. Blocking a little K36 today, paint later this week.
 
RV-8 Fastback

Well..... one picture at a time, and let's see if I can post it to the right page.... this is a project, not a finished plane yet....
Here's one of my RV-8 fastback under construction.


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Scott Hersha
RV-8 FB
 
Airport Ready

The "slow" build -8 fuselage/finish kits, delivered March of last year has been ready to move to the airport for several weeks now. Mating the wings is about all that remains. Thanks to a bulkhead fitting, the soft aluminum tubing from the heated pitot tube terminates behind the static instruments. The panel and radio have been fired up and check out fine. In my quest for a simplified final assembly sequence, all electrical wires from the wings including OAT probe, AOA hoses and VOR coax cable simply need to be "plugged in" at the wing root where associated receptacles await. I spent a lot of time reworking the aft canopy skirt to assure a good fit when the canopy is locked. I also modified the empennage fairing to close the gap under the horizontal stab. Fitted with Grove airfoil gear, my old C-150 towbar works perfectly with the Bell tailwheel fork. The Silverbullet link will have to wait until I permanently attach the rudder. I'd would have done that now to make final assembly go even quicker but cannot fit the airplane into the garage with the control surfaces attached.




 
Scott! Rick! Slow down! Ya'll are making me feel like a slug. <g>

Seriously....nice work guys.
 
Man, you 8 guys are all coming along nicely!

Hope to see you all soon with flying 8s! Are you all going to go full bore over the summer or do you guys take some time off? I took time off during the summers but the last summer I went all out to finish up sooner rather than later. My family was sick of the plane using up the garage and after 5 years I was ready to move to the airport and get that first flight under way!

Lucky
 
Chris Santschi said:
Rick:

Did you drill those handles to the rollover bar after it was glassed? or befour.

Chris RV8 627CS Painting at 8WC
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Chris,

I installed the handles a few days ago after finally making up my mind to use them. No big deal to avoid the plexiglass during drill out and used AN3 bolts to attach....much easier than trying to deal with screws and a screwdriver at that awkward angle.
 
Here you go Mike.....not much about the canopy setup, but it is a canopy with paint on it.

Scott, is it my imagination, or did I cut my bubble a bit shorter than yours?

 
Canopy

Dan,
One of the pics I sent was before I was finished fitting/trimming/gluing the bubble on, but I tried to get it far enough forward to give it a more sloped front and a more even transition at the rear. Then I put a real gradual fillet at the front for the same reason. Your paint job looks good. What did you use and did you use the same on the inside? I want to paint mine inside now before final assembly. What did you use to mask off the plexi on the inside? (lots of tape?) I'm also trying to figure out how to make the edge between the fiberglass and the plexiglass look finished and professional after painting. I'm picking up my welded roll bar/seatback support Saturday and also my front stick. I had two cuts made in the stick with two 45 degree welded bends, moving my stick top back 2". I'll cut off about 1 1/2" from the bottom of my panel and keep my stick longer.

Scott
 
Scott,
<<Your paint job looks good. What did you use and did you use the same on the inside?>>

PPG DBC base and DCU clear.

<<I want to paint mine inside now before final assembly. What did you use to mask off the plexi on the inside? (lots of tape?)>>

Masked with plastic sheet in several sections so the sections could be taped to the inside of the plexiglass and not drape. Plexi above the glareshield was all tape.

<<I'm also trying to figure out how to make the edge between the fiberglass and the plexiglass look finished and professional after painting.>>

I'm not totally happy with mine because I forgot a detail about metallic base. The fiberglass and K-36 edge was sanded to be flush with the surface of a tape line...a few thousanths thick. For the last mask I used 1/4" 3M Fineline and spaced it off the filler edge about 1/32". Sprayed base and clear, then peeled the fineline tape right quick while the clearcoat was still flowable. As expected, it flowed into a beautiful edge. What I forgot was how metallic flakes in a base coat highlight surface irregularities. Although your fingertips feel a perfect edge, if you look real close you can see the filler edge line in the metallic buried under the clear because of the way the flakes lay.....that 1/32" spacing back to haunt me. What I should have done was mask at the filller line, spray the metallic base, let it flash, then retape with the spacing and spray the clear. Oh well, live and learn.

The inside was done the same way (but no visible line in the metallic because of the acute angle at the joint.) Prior to the last coat of K36 I did tape the plexi edge and smear a tiny filet of neat epoxy into the joint between the fiberglass and the plexiglass, so no gap would show up in the finished product. There were a few spots along the glass edge not fully filled with squeeze-out from the plexiglass bonding step.



Have you thought about how to finish the glareshield area? I didn't spray it with metallic base and clear; too glossy. Thinking about flat black.

Postscript 6-6-08: Did some reading on LFV (light reflectance values), diffuse and specular reflection, etc....and went with the flat black. Sprayed it this AM, looks fine. We have a very small glareshield, so I'm not gonna worry too much about heating, and I may make a pad for it later when I do the carpet.

 
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The latch and lock assembly; better view than the photo on the Showplanes site:



Latch handle. Non-intuitive (forward for release, pull back to latch), so it will need a big 'ole safety label or something. I may put red and green arcs behind the handle.

 
Canopy

Dan,
What a beautiful job on the paint, latch, and all of it. I'm trying to catch up with you, but I'm not a very good painter. I may have someone do it for me. I'll heed your advice on making my edge though. My glareshield is a little deeper than yours and I plan on covering it with automotive headliner material - readily available here in Cincinnati. It comes in many different colors/textures and is backed with a thin foam. I'll sew a nice edge where it is near the plexi and wrap it under the lip at the aft end. I did this on my RV-6 with a charcoal gray color and it worked great. I used a glue they use to attach vinyl tops on cars - remember those? It's like a rubbery contact cement. I don't have any of that left, but I will probably just use spray adhesive, or something less permanent. Thanks for the pics.

Scott
 
Scott,
<<I'm trying to catch up with you, but I'm not a very good painter.>>

Neither am I. And you'll catch up fast; I'm on light duty. Blew out my back with some dumb move while spraying wheel pants two weeks ago <g>

Something I tried might be of interest to you. The free end of the outside latch handle could touch the painted surface. I machined a lock cylinder to fit down in the SP-supplied imbedded insert, then machined a press-fit aluminum trim ring to go in after it. The surface flange is .020" thick, which holds the handle up off the paint. Easy to do.



 
DanH said:
Scott,
<<I'm trying to catch up with you, but I'm not a very good painter.>>

Neither am I. And you'll catch up fast; I'm on light duty. Blew out my back with some dumb move while spraying wheel pants two weeks ago <g>

Something I tried might be of interest to you. The free end of the outside latch handle could touch the painted surface. I machined a lock cylinder to fit down in the SP-supplied imbedded insert, then machined a press-fit aluminum trim ring to go in after it. The surface flange is .020" thick, which holds the handle up off the paint. Easy to do.



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Dan,
I been told I am a obsessive compulsive perfectionist. I think you are one up on me. Great work!!
 
Completed the wings!!

We started building our slow build wings in August 2007 and completed them last weekend.

The fuel tanks were definitely the most challenging part, but they are done now:D

Thanks to VAF and all of you that have helped with advice along the way.


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Time to crack open the fuselage kit:)
 
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Very nice

Congratulations Andre and Nico! Your pictures speak volumes of the care and attention to detail in which your wings were assembled. From the pin clean shop environment, clever wing dolly, Akzo epoxy primer, even the obvious precision in which you carefully removed strips of protective vinyl, I have little doubt your RV will be the pride of South Africa. Well done!
 
...indeed!

Just to echo Rick's comments, very nice indeed.

Also - you must be competing with Rudi Greyling for cleanest shop!!

Chris
 
HS and VS complete

I started the horizontal stab on 7/10 and completed it and the vertical stab today 7/25. Went quite a bit quicker than I had expected. Still need to finish the rudder and elevators but before long I'll be ordering my wing kit. Thanks to VAF for such a great place to learn, research and get great advice.

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Starting to look like something

Last week our EAA chapter had a workshop at my workshop. The result of the work shop was bending the longerons. This week a member helped me with the tailcone skins. Not a 1-man operation.


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Getting there....

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No smoke when turned everything on.... and it all works to boot. Wanted simple but effective this time around, but still minimal IFR. The AFS EFIS
displays both from the 496 and the SL-30. Both the EFIS and the GPS have
batteries and if all else fails, there is needle, ball and airspeed. Used C/B switches when ever possible which cuts down on the number of wires. The sub panel behind the instrument panel has a hinged access door. Still must
solve the effect the roll bar and canopy frame have on the remote magnetometer (SP?) and the compass. The remote compass is mounted
directly behind the baggage wall on a angle between the longerons. The
EFIS heading changes as much 7 deg when the canopy is open or closed.
If i were going to have the CHINO PAINT SCHEME it would fly fairly soon.
But the finish and paint will take much longer. This is way the original Chino
paint schemes were done BD (before Dan ;)).
 
Nice!

Regards the heading change with the canopy open vs closed, I think you'll find that a lot, so be sure to set it up with everything set as in flight, with the canopy closed. There's a lot of steel in that frame, and it'll do it every time!
 
Tom--

Looks great! Wondering, what's the big black knob under the air vent on the left side? I counted/deciphered all the others...thanks-

Joe
 
RV-8a Status

I don't have a photo, but I'm proud to post that I "glued" the canopy this weekend. My good friend Tony came by and helped and together we adhered the plastic beast to the frame with Sikaflex. Looks okay and will need some trimming and filling in places, but all together a good job, Bill
 
Two years on a slowbuild

Well October 5th marked 2 years (and 770hrs) since I started working on my slowbuild RV-8.

In that time:
  • Empennage is done
  • Fuel tanks were deemed leak free
  • Wings are bascially complete
  • Fuselage is in work

Some observations:
  • Some people that I have followed online have quit
  • Some people that I have followed online are still going strong or have finished
  • Some people have bought airplanes and slowed down or stopped progress
  • I love riveting and hate deburring
  • I love dreaming about my panel and potential paint schemes
  • I hate not getting to fly it right now
  • I must do something on the airplane, no matter how minor, every day

And it has been said before, but the internet and specifically this site has been invaluable. I can literally get stumped, get on this site, type in a part number and get answers at 4am in the morning- that's power!

Thanks to all that have helped, both directly and indirectly! I can't wait to finish, but I'm also really enjoying the journey. Hopefully I still feel that way 2-3 more years from now when I'm putting on the finishing touches.;)


Below is a picture from the morning's session where I'm riveting the fuselage skins on - :)

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Painted!

The original Chino paint scheme was at one time paint. Some of us role back
time to those grand ole days. My friend Jerry Scott waved his magic wand again (he painted my six). Wings went on this weekend. Weighing is next and then the paper work goes to Gary Sobek. 4 years, 2 months and 1700+ hours so far. Maybe next month........

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Congratulations!

Hi Tom,

Congratulations on your 8A "roll-out!" LOOKS GREAT!

I'm working on my canopy . . . next steps are interior painting/installs, engine assembly/install, and gear install. Still a lot to go . . . I'm SLOW!

Best Regards,

Bill Palmer
 
First engine run

Today we started the engine for the first time. New YO-360-A1A fired right off. Only issue was an intermintent tach (afs 3500). Don't think the sensor
in the right mag is in far enough and as the engine warms the tach becomes
intermintent. The sensor is tight, but the flange is not against the mag body. Sent a message to AFS, we'll see. Gary Sobek is scheduled for inspection next weekend. Thanks to RV-8A builder, Bill Palmer, for support and taking pictures.

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Another one getting there

Here is the basic status of my project. Since this was taken I have rehung the engine, it had to come off for a unexpected surprise:mad:. What a learning experience it has been so far. I am hoping to be in the air late spring, early summer.


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Randy
 
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N53LW Update Photo

She should be flying within the next 3 weeks. Thanks to my partners Phil and Richard for all their expert work.

OK, I think I fixed it so the picture will stay rotated correctly :)

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By kloseke, shot with iPhone at 2009-01-28
 
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Finally another man with good taste in paint schemes

KevinL said:
She should be flying within the next 3 weeks. Thanks to my partners Phil and Richard for all their expert work.

OK, I think I fixed it so the picture will stay rotated correctly :)

img0183aq8.jpg

By kloseke, shot with iPhone at 2009-01-28
Click to expand...

Finally another man with good taste in paint schemes.

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N53LW Paint Scheme

Wait til you see the finished paint job...don't want to steal their thunder so I won't mention colors...but they're using a prismatic trim color on parts of the interior that looks awesome.

They're painting it themselves and the attention to detail shows.

This is also one of the few RV8s I've seen with dual throttle quadrants (including prop and mixture), inverted oil, Barrett IO390, glass panel etc. so it's really tricked out.

Mike
 
N53LW

Mike, doing an engine run Saturday afternoon, if you want to come & hear the 390 thru the AWI 4 in 1 exhaust!


 
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Charlie--

Nice!

Is that a) the show planes cowl or Sam James? and b) the standard Van's canopy, a darker tint or a third party?


Looks sweet!

Joe
 
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