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Sealing "Floppers" - Tip Overs or Tip Ups

HFS

Well Known Member
This is just a little twist I have used on my "floppers" for many years for sealing to the cockpit rails. Haven't tried it with a tip-up, but I think it would work pretty much the same.

For the main seal I use Macklinburg-Duncan 68676 "All Purpose Silicone Gasket"
- the white stuff shown in the pic. Approximately 1/2" wide, squeezes down to approx. 1/16", is hollow, is adhesive backed, and in cross section, it is "teardrop" shaped.

What being hollow does is to allow the installation of 1/8" soft felt cord in the hollow space to "plump" up the thickness if needed - McMaster-Carr P/N 8767K3.

Also, the gap to be sealed may not be uniform along its length - maybe 3/32" at one end, and 5/32" at the other. With the cord - just install it from the wide end until you get to the point where the taper is (somewhat) accommodated. If you have trouble "pushing" the cord into the tube, just decide how far (or all the way) in the tube you want the cord to go, "slit" the top of the seal at that point, and use a pull wire (think electrician) to pull the felt cord through.

HFS
 

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You’ve got my attention.
Got any photos of the actual application on the airplane?
I’m interested in better sealant options on the forward edge of my tip-up over the sub panel. 1700 hours and I’m still not satisfied.
 
... a couple more.

Sid -

Here are some other "sealants" I have used over the years for the seal between the forward canopy skin the the flange from the instrument panel, on my Rocket & -4.

The gray colored foam is 1/2" wide, with its own adhesive, & .093" thick, but compresses easily to .063". Very soft and easy to compress. McMaster-Carr P/N 93415K31

The black material is 1/4" wide x 1/16" thick, and doesn't compress much. McMaster-Carr P/N 8694K111.

I can't post "pics" of the first post to your PM's - so if you send me a cell number I can text to, I'll get some pics - thx.

HFS
 

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You’ve got my attention.
Got any photos of the actual application on the airplane?
I’m interested in better sealant options on the forward edge of my tip-up over the sub panel. 1700 hours and I’m still not satisfied.


Not what you asked for Scroll but I have 40% covered. Getting a good seal on the fore tip up lip has been difficult, I have tried several different styles of seals with marginal results. Seems a good seal on the ground will leak when flying due to lower cabin pressure.

Some time back, I saw a Lip tape mod at Oshkosh which looked interesting, about a year ago I fabricated and installed the mod. It works well preventing water leakage beyond the hinge points. Of the 48” of gap, I have 20” of the total gap covered. 20” is about the max length still allowing the canopy to open normally. Clear 3M paint protection film was used and have had no issues with it coming loose.

Now if I can just get the remaining 60%.
 

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A couple of pics of it (them) installed on my Rocket. Along the canopy rail & the forward overlap.

HFS
 

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I have tried all kinds of methods to seal the leading edge but what is currently working ( and needs a little improvement ) is tape. This has reduced rain leaks to a drop or two.

The next version will extend to the edges of the canopy and be a little prettier.
 

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I have tried all kinds of methods to seal the leading edge but what is currently working ( and needs a little improvement ) is tape. This has reduced rain leaks to a drop or two.

The next version will extend to the edges of the canopy and be a little prettier.

Dennis,

You've got my attention, but I don't understand how the tape stays/seals with the canopy opening and closing. Can you give a little more insight?
 
Dave Buntin installed a blow-up seal in his grand champion RV-8. It's just soft silicone tubing and a bicycle pump.

The idea may adapt to a molded seal too. Have not tried it myself.
.
 

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Dennis,

You've got my attention, but I don't understand how the tape stays/seals with the canopy opening and closing. Can you give a little more insight?

I'm also quite interested in the tape idea, but after looking at the photos, am unsure how it allows for the canopy to fully open and close.

--Ron
 
I'm also quite interested in the tape idea, but after looking at the photos, am unsure how it allows for the canopy to fully open and close.

--Ron

I started out with 2” wide painters tape to see what could be sealed and still allow the canopy to open unrestricted. My goal was to cover the area between the hinges as this is where the water will run in if opening a wet canopy.
When testing was completed I was able to cover a few inches beyond hinges. 3M paint protection film was selected and trimmed to 2.25” wide with a .75” strip on the underside to prevent it sticking, this allowed smooth opening a closing of the canopy.
 
Interesting thread - -my tip up is sealed (where possible) with the standard teflon tear-drop seal. Being concerned about sealing, a test fixture allowing a sealed cavity to be pressurized and vary the closing gap was made. If it touched both sides, the tear-drop would hold 1.5X the dynamic pressure (no leak) of 200 kt at sea level. Too bad it is not made in graduated sizes.

Be aware that solid seal types compression force can keep the latch from working properly. The hollow cross section types will seal at much lower pounds/ft contact force.
 
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