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Screw Kits ?

Jr Hampton

Active Member
Hello All..

Is there a "common" screw kit you can order from Vans with a good supply of the most common screws for RV6? I tried search , but good luck searching for "screws"
 
There is not a huge variety of screw types/sizes used on RVs. Check your plans for the screw used for which ever cover plate you need. Make your list & order a bunch for each location, can’t have too many screws on hand!
For a typical annual inspection you would want extra screws for:
Tail intersection fairing
Elevator linkage access covers
Elevator trim cover
Wing tip screws
Under wing access panels
Gear leg fairings
Wheel pants
Cowling covers
Rear baggage bulkhead
Side flap linkage covers
baggage floor center cover
Electric flap side covers
Center console cover
Lower cockpit floor covers
Fuel valve covers
Center forward floor cover
Air filter retainer
Take the 30 minutes to go thru your plans (don’t have one? Vans web store $10)
And build your own screw list, you will find that most covers use the same screw.
Buy enough screws to totally replace every screw 5 times over! That way you won’t be tempted to put a half worn screw back in… you will always have an extra one for your buddy that needs one now…
& they are cheap to buy, buy lots
 
Just being Lazy

" Take the 30 minutes to go thru your plans "

I was trying to avoid that :) but looks like what I will do :) I do have plans.

Precisely what Im doing now. Condition.. YAY.. Didnt know if Vans had a

hardware "bag" with assorted already. No biggie. Thanks for help/motivation.
 
Screws

" Take the 30 minutes to go thru your plans "

I was trying to avoid that :) but looks like what I will do :) I do have plans.

Precisely what Im doing now. Condition.. YAY.. Didnt know if Vans had a

hardware "bag" with assorted already. No biggie. Thanks for help/motivation.

90% of the screws will be #8
AN515-8R8
Or
AN507-8R8

The former is a button head screw, #8, 8-16ths grip length.
The latter is the countersink version same length. Links are not specific. Scroll through and select quantities and "Add to Cart".

There's probably a bunch of #6 of each type.
Then maybe a few AN3 (3/16) bolts, AN4 bolts (4/16) AN365 Elastic Stop Nuts and AN960 washers. Personally, I never reuse an elastic stop nut. New one any time one is removed.

Of course now we have to memorize Mil-Spec part numbers Don't get me started.
 
90% of the screws will be #8
AN515-8R8
Or
AN507-8R8

The former is a button head screw, #8, 8-16ths grip length.
The latter is the countersink version same length. Links are not specific.

Not quite, as far as I know. Yes to the AN515-8R8 for the non-countersunk, but the AN507's are primarily used only in the 6R6 size for things like inspection cover plates where a structural grade screw may not be called for. AN509-8R8 is what Van's typically specs for countersunk screws used for structural purposes (e.g. fuel tank to spar screws). I'm going from memory, so I could be wrong, but wanted to make sure the original poster didn't get led astray. I'm not aware of any AN507-8RX on the plane, at least in significant number. I would second the suggetion further up, however... all RV owners, maybe even especially non-builders, should have a full set of plans, both for their own education and for their A&P's reference.
 
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Long Shot, but . . .

You might give the Vans support line a call. Depending on digitization these days, they used to provide a list of parts for all the "bags" with the invoices. They just might have a list of fasteners for your vintage.
 
Screws

Not quite, as far as I know. Yes to the AN515-8R8 for the non-countersunk, but the AN507's are primarily used only in the 6R6 size for things like inspection cover plates where a structural grade screw may not be called for. AN509-8R8 is what Van's typically specs for countersunk screws used for structural purposes (e.g. fuel tank to spar screws). I'm going from memory, so I could be wrong, but wanted to make sure the original poster didn't get led astray. I'm not aware of any AN507-8RX on the plane, at least in significant number. I would second the suggetion further up, however... all RV owners, maybe even especially non-builders, should have a full set of plans, both for their own education and for their A&P's reference.

I'm sure you are correct. That was a spitball shot at giving the OP something other than "Check the Plans". Sorry. It's a pet peave.
To be correct, I never install a fastener without double checking plan callouts.
So to the OP... Sorry, Check the plans.
 
Screws

Thanks all ! I didnt build it (RV6A) , but I do have the plans. And familiar with
them as I at least started to build a 7 many moons ago. Was just looking for
a possible quick order from vans for the "usual" screws that'll, no doubt, get rounded removing for condition.. Baggage, front floor, inspection ,wing roots,
I really hate phillips head screws LOL. Probably would help if I got the correct
phillips bit.. I have read that #2 works best ?
 
......Personally, I never reuse an elastic stop nut. New one any time one is removed......

Years ago, as a young maintenance engineer at a paper mill, the ink only a few years old on my Mech Eng degree...
and not long after I'd sat through an eye opening intense seminar (1 or 2 days) on threaded fasteners, where I had learned that these sort of nuts should NEVER be re-used...(because the plastic locking insert can't do it's job the second time around)
....Anyway, I was walking through the maintenance shop attached to the light school where I was active and spotted the young junior A&P re-installing a prop on some customer's airplane and he was re-using those nuts.
and me being conditioned with the nearly constant safety training at work which taught to say something if you see something.... well I said something. And was summarily dismissed...he was "certified" and I was not, and all of that.... clearly he'd not gotten the same safety training. I probably wouldn't have cared much had those nuts been safety wired, but in that application they were not.

Anyway it was in that same threaded fastener class that in a small way I had a life changing epiphany.... that nobody knows everything there is to know about any topic... I had grown up wrenching on cars and boats, rebuilt several engines...then a pretty good GPA on my AAS and ME degrees with elective classes in machine design which included a fair bit of study on threaded fasteners....
Well I thought I pretty much knew everything there was to know about tightening lug nuts on a car (or whatever)... I had my eyes opened in that class!

and I'll add this which carries into your "never re-use those nuts" rule ....... I learned that a torqued nut deforms. The loading on the threads in the nut tapers off over just a few threads...with something like 80-90% of the load being carried carried by the first 3 or so threads.....most by the first thread, a little less by the second, and so on... (I forget the exact numbers off the top of my head now)
So nuts are softer than the mating screws by design, and these first few threads deform. If the nut is re-used, the torque required to get the same preload changes, and the loading profile within the nut changes, etc...
All of this probably doesn't much matter in many non-critical applications, lightly loaded where torque and preloads don't much matter, etc...
but still, I find it to be something that a lot of folks don't know...
 
I think in general Vans tried to standardize the sizes as much as possible which is normal method for any production. Having said that I have found instances where shorter or longer screws worked better for me.

It might be easier to create your own screw kit at ACS than Vans since on some pages they have multiple screw sizes on one page.
 
(Emphasis added) AC43-13.

Interesting & I'd love to know more regarding the basis for that...
I don't have time at the moment to search through 646 pages of that AC to find that, and read "the rest of the story" as Paul Harvey used to say...

The sole purpose of a nut like that, in my estimation, is locking...which is questionable in my mind given that we're talking soft plastic, but the idea being that the installation cuts threads into the plastic that are a tight friction fit that will cause more drag to resist loosening. If those cut threads are now "unscrewed" and then "rescrewed" they are bound to be not as tight as new....

By prevailing torque, I'm guessing they mean the target torque spec.... meaning that it's not tightening enough.... but I don't understand how any number of reuse cycles would affect that
on the first re-use the threads have already been cut in the plastic + the first few threads in the metal nut have deformed
...so the plastic is not getting much if any grip, and the threads are now possibly dragging = more toque on the nut required to get a given tension.
and the next few threads now carry the load so more threads get deformed....

Re-use it again, and the sole purpose of that plastic bit in there is gone

I don't know.... when I see things written like that....I wonder the basis, context, and intent.... and I also tend to wonder even though the author is probably an authority in the filed...I know that nobody knows everything about a topic and even if we do, we all make mistakes.... so if logic or some other perspective points to some issue with the "rule", then I'm not so sure it's a great idea to just follow it....
 
Interesting & I'd love to know more regarding the basis for that...
I don't have time at the moment to search through 646 pages of that AC to find that, and read "the rest of the story" as Paul Harvey used to say...
...

That's why they make tables of contents.

By prevailing torque, I'm guessing they mean the target torque spec.... meaning that it's not tightening enough....

No. It's the torque required to turn the locknut on the threads, NOT final torque.

It's your plane, and you can do whatever you want, but it is certainly acceptable to reuse nylock nuts given certain constraints.

And AC43-13 is a valuable resource. You should become familiar with it.

Or not. Your choice.
 
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