Mark33
Well Known Member
This is what you need. It says the -4 M to -4 F is unavailable, but it might be worth a phone call to the company to see if it can be ordered.
https://www.anplumbing.com/straight-a-n-female-swivel-to-a-n-male.html
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Scott's RV14A: N52XL
- Thread starter rockitdoc
- Start date
This is what you need. It says the -4 M to -4 F is unavailable, but it might be worth a phone call to the company to see if it can be ordered.
https://www.anplumbing.com/straight-a-n-female-swivel-to-a-n-male.html
They are who I usually use, but when I called. No joy.
pazmanyflyer
Well Known Member
Earl's Performance Coupler 995166ERL from Summit maybe?
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/ear-995166erl?seid=srese1&gclid=CjwKCAiA_6yfBhBNEiwAkmXy56JpOjcRRqEBCJMW317hoA4ZpLidPS0-0duPUF2XDck5YyM1s_j7jhoCnesQAvD_BwE
I wish. That's an AN-6 to AN-6.
Our vents are -4's
I have looked at all the usual suspects, but, so far, nada.
Interior Upholstery Begins
Over the past few days I have been fitting the interior upholstery. Finally got all the holes drilled, brackets attached and the side trim fitted today. This interior is from Classic Aero Designs, and, for the most part, the instructions are very good. A few little glitches here and there, but altogether, the fit is great and I think it looks spectacular.
More to come tomorrow.
Over the past few days I have been fitting the interior upholstery. Finally got all the holes drilled, brackets attached and the side trim fitted today. This interior is from Classic Aero Designs, and, for the most part, the instructions are very good. A few little glitches here and there, but altogether, the fit is great and I think it looks spectacular.
More to come tomorrow.
Wiring Accessories FWF
I finally got all the 'accessories' wired FWF. These include a small 'hot bus' fuse block connected directly to the battery for the 1) battery charger 2) baggage light and 3) stall horn. These items are hot as long as the battery is grounded to the airframe. This way, the baggage light and stall horn can be turned on without switching on the master, as in an early morning pre-flight in the dark.
The external power plug is wired to the master contactor opposite the battery connection so it powers the plane with the master switch off. Separated from the battery unless the master switch is on.
The plug for the engine oil heater powers the straps around the cylinders and the patch glued to the oil cooler.
I finally got all the 'accessories' wired FWF. These include a small 'hot bus' fuse block connected directly to the battery for the 1) battery charger 2) baggage light and 3) stall horn. These items are hot as long as the battery is grounded to the airframe. This way, the baggage light and stall horn can be turned on without switching on the master, as in an early morning pre-flight in the dark.
The external power plug is wired to the master contactor opposite the battery connection so it powers the plane with the master switch off. Separated from the battery unless the master switch is on.
The plug for the engine oil heater powers the straps around the cylinders and the patch glued to the oil cooler.
Canopy Assembly Part 1
I started the canopy construction today. After much thought I decided to 'glue' it on with Sikaflex.
And, since my -14A is predrilled for screws and rivets to attach the canopy I decided to fill the holes with epoxy/micro so the holes don't show when the canopy construction is completed. Otherwise, the Sikaflex will ooze through the holes and could pop out if each hole was not perfectly cleaned and primed.
So, I cleaned the canopy side strips and the aft skin, taped underneath with packing tape, and filled the holes. I will sand the outside smooth and it should look nice after painting.
I started the canopy construction today. After much thought I decided to 'glue' it on with Sikaflex.
And, since my -14A is predrilled for screws and rivets to attach the canopy I decided to fill the holes with epoxy/micro so the holes don't show when the canopy construction is completed. Otherwise, the Sikaflex will ooze through the holes and could pop out if each hole was not perfectly cleaned and primed.
So, I cleaned the canopy side strips and the aft skin, taped underneath with packing tape, and filled the holes. I will sand the outside smooth and it should look nice after painting.
Flap Motor Cover Redone
I had riveted the flap motor cover together prior to painting it, thinking it was covered by carpet. Wrong. So, since I would like the rivets to show, I built another one, painted it, then riveted it. I like the way the rivets stand out from the painted surface rather than covering the universal rivets in paint.
I had riveted the flap motor cover together prior to painting it, thinking it was covered by carpet. Wrong. So, since I would like the rivets to show, I built another one, painted it, then riveted it. I like the way the rivets stand out from the painted surface rather than covering the universal rivets in paint.
FWF Cable Routing
I was having trouble figuring out how to route the heavy cables FWF, so enquired to the sparkies on here and got some good advice.
The main 6AWG power to my main bus was the first issue which got resolved by adding some Adels and silicone tape.
Then, I was concerned the 6AWG starter cable was too tight between the engine (vibrating) and the mount (not vibrating), so I increased the length between the Adels at the engine and the first connection on the engine mount.
Then, I separated the fuel line from the starter cable by shortening the starter cable and running it on top the fuel line.
I was having trouble figuring out how to route the heavy cables FWF, so enquired to the sparkies on here and got some good advice.
The main 6AWG power to my main bus was the first issue which got resolved by adding some Adels and silicone tape.
Then, I was concerned the 6AWG starter cable was too tight between the engine (vibrating) and the mount (not vibrating), so I increased the length between the Adels at the engine and the first connection on the engine mount.
Then, I separated the fuel line from the starter cable by shortening the starter cable and running it on top the fuel line.
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Cable FW PassThroughs
I separated the prop control and alternate air cables from the wires per 'best practices' today. I got an eyeball with two cable pass throughs from Double Tee (https://www.firewallfittings.com/contact-us/). Had them make a custom fitting to accommodate two different size cables. Works great. I was dreading the install, but it wasn't too bad. 3 hrs.
This photo shows the three pass throughs on the port side. Two for wires, one for cables.
I separated the prop control and alternate air cables from the wires per 'best practices' today. I got an eyeball with two cable pass throughs from Double Tee (https://www.firewallfittings.com/contact-us/). Had them make a custom fitting to accommodate two different size cables. Works great. I was dreading the install, but it wasn't too bad. 3 hrs.
This photo shows the three pass throughs on the port side. Two for wires, one for cables.
FWF Wire Lashing and Adel Clamps
Been working on getting my race car sold, and been off the airplane for too long, so now that race car is ready to sell, back to work on N52XL.
If anybody wants a fun vintage race ride, this one needs nothing and is ready to race.
Got a bunch of wires lashed together and secured FWF as well as installing a bunch of Adels (ugh). Anyway, only have one more Adel to install tomorrow to secure the plug wires on the starboard side.
Been working on getting my race car sold, and been off the airplane for too long, so now that race car is ready to sell, back to work on N52XL.
If anybody wants a fun vintage race ride, this one needs nothing and is ready to race.
Got a bunch of wires lashed together and secured FWF as well as installing a bunch of Adels (ugh). Anyway, only have one more Adel to install tomorrow to secure the plug wires on the starboard side.
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Canopy Trimming Time!
This causes me terrific ANXIETY! Maybe because I cracked my first canopy. So, with the correct tool, this time (thanks Larry), I am pressing forward.
This tool spins at about a zillion rpm, which is disconcerting, at first. But, with the plastic cutting wheel, it goes through the plexiglass like butter. Keeping it straight is a challenge in my shaky hands, but coarse sand paper should straighten things out when I'm through.
This causes me terrific ANXIETY! Maybe because I cracked my first canopy. So, with the correct tool, this time (thanks Larry), I am pressing forward.
This tool spins at about a zillion rpm, which is disconcerting, at first. But, with the plastic cutting wheel, it goes through the plexiglass like butter. Keeping it straight is a challenge in my shaky hands, but coarse sand paper should straighten things out when I'm through.
Glare Shield Painted Canopy Prepped for Sikaflex
Got the glare shield painted today. If I hadn't outsmarted myself, it would have been a lot easier. I painted the forward bit of the canopy frame thinking I would get a head start on painting stuff. Big mistake. I had to scuff all the area where the glare shield flat black paint goes, and I had to remove all the way to the AL the area where the transition is fabricated between the forward frame and the canopy. Not awful, but I hate going backwards.
I also prepped all the surfaces where the canopy contacts the frame in anticipation of Sikaflexing the canopy to the frame. And, prepped the canopy for Sikaflexing, ie, masking all areas not getting the glue treatment.
Scuffed Up
Painted with Flat Black PPG
Masking Removed
Got the glare shield painted today. If I hadn't outsmarted myself, it would have been a lot easier. I painted the forward bit of the canopy frame thinking I would get a head start on painting stuff. Big mistake. I had to scuff all the area where the glare shield flat black paint goes, and I had to remove all the way to the AL the area where the transition is fabricated between the forward frame and the canopy. Not awful, but I hate going backwards.
I also prepped all the surfaces where the canopy contacts the frame in anticipation of Sikaflexing the canopy to the frame. And, prepped the canopy for Sikaflexing, ie, masking all areas not getting the glue treatment.
Scuffed Up
Painted with Flat Black PPG
Masking Removed
Sikaflex Prepping, continue
I attached some 1/32" fishing line to the canopy side frame today to allow a gap for the Sikaflex between the aluminum and the plexiglas.
When the fishing line is also glued to the side skirt and riveted in place after Sikaflex installation, the gap will be 1/16".
I also drilled and countersunk the frame hoop at the aft end of the canopy frame so the seal could be installed.
This is a picture from the underside showing the nylocs and the retainer strip that captures the seal.
Once the canopy frame is closed, the seal closes the gap between the frame and rollbar.
Works good.
I attached some 1/32" fishing line to the canopy side frame today to allow a gap for the Sikaflex between the aluminum and the plexiglas.
When the fishing line is also glued to the side skirt and riveted in place after Sikaflex installation, the gap will be 1/16".
I also drilled and countersunk the frame hoop at the aft end of the canopy frame so the seal could be installed.
This is a picture from the underside showing the nylocs and the retainer strip that captures the seal.
Once the canopy frame is closed, the seal closes the gap between the frame and rollbar.
Works good.
Canopy Masking and Shim Prep
The two things that other builders (Thanks Larry and Keith) emphasize when Sikaflexing a canopy are masking and shims. The masking to keep the Sika primer and Sika adhesive away from places you don't want it and the shims to make sure there is adequate gap for the Sika to reside between the plexiglass and the aluminum.
On the sides of the canopy I opted for a 1/32" gap created by some fly fishing float line superglued to the frame.
Two layers of tape (Frog, I am told, works best to keep the thin primer from migrating under the tape). The green will get covered in primer and then peeled off before the adhesive is applied. Since no primer will be present on the yellow tape, the adhesive will not stick to it and when the yellow is peeled off, a nice clean edge will be created. Brilliant.
The little angles clamped to the rollbar locate the rear of the canopy.
The shims on the aft hoop of the frame required more attention since the hoop elevation does not exactly match the rollbar elevation near the top. So, fishing line was used at the bottom of the frame where the plane of the frame and the rollbar are equal. But, at the top of the frame and rollbar, there is a difference of 0.040". So a shim of that dimension is placed under a shim of 0.060". This is provide a gap of 0.100" on the frame and 0.060" on the rollbar making the elevation of the canopy match the rear window at the top.
The two things that other builders (Thanks Larry and Keith) emphasize when Sikaflexing a canopy are masking and shims. The masking to keep the Sika primer and Sika adhesive away from places you don't want it and the shims to make sure there is adequate gap for the Sika to reside between the plexiglass and the aluminum.
On the sides of the canopy I opted for a 1/32" gap created by some fly fishing float line superglued to the frame.
Two layers of tape (Frog, I am told, works best to keep the thin primer from migrating under the tape). The green will get covered in primer and then peeled off before the adhesive is applied. Since no primer will be present on the yellow tape, the adhesive will not stick to it and when the yellow is peeled off, a nice clean edge will be created. Brilliant.
The little angles clamped to the rollbar locate the rear of the canopy.
The shims on the aft hoop of the frame required more attention since the hoop elevation does not exactly match the rollbar elevation near the top. So, fishing line was used at the bottom of the frame where the plane of the frame and the rollbar are equal. But, at the top of the frame and rollbar, there is a difference of 0.040". So a shim of that dimension is placed under a shim of 0.060". This is provide a gap of 0.100" on the frame and 0.060" on the rollbar making the elevation of the canopy match the rear window at the top.
Canopy Polishing and Masking
I sanded and polished the aft edge of the canopy where the BIG TRIM was done with the Dremel SuperMax cutoff wheel.
First P80, then P180, P400, P800 then Novus polishes. The edge is nice and shiny, now. Looks good. Feels good.
After polishing the edge, I put the final masking tapes on prior to applying the Sikaflex products. The green tape will keep the primer from getting places it's not wanted. After pulling the green tape off, the yellow tape underneath will keep the Sikaflex 295UV contained within its borders.
Now, I just need to recruit two helpers from my offspring to assist. I think one son will reside inside the fuse to tool the Sika along the inside horizontal edges on each side and along the inside of the hoop, then pull the yellow Frog tape. The other son will help with attaching the side skirts containing Sikaflex with clecos. We will both tool the exterior Sikaflex, then pull the tape. I hope this works!
I sanded and polished the aft edge of the canopy where the BIG TRIM was done with the Dremel SuperMax cutoff wheel.
First P80, then P180, P400, P800 then Novus polishes. The edge is nice and shiny, now. Looks good. Feels good.
After polishing the edge, I put the final masking tapes on prior to applying the Sikaflex products. The green tape will keep the primer from getting places it's not wanted. After pulling the green tape off, the yellow tape underneath will keep the Sikaflex 295UV contained within its borders.
Now, I just need to recruit two helpers from my offspring to assist. I think one son will reside inside the fuse to tool the Sika along the inside horizontal edges on each side and along the inside of the hoop, then pull the yellow Frog tape. The other son will help with attaching the side skirts containing Sikaflex with clecos. We will both tool the exterior Sikaflex, then pull the tape. I hope this works!
Offspring
Sounds like one offspring got the short straw. I wonder gow many days he has to live in the fuse before the canopy can be opened! Kidding. You got this.
Sounds like one offspring got the short straw. I wonder gow many days he has to live in the fuse before the canopy can be opened! Kidding. You got this.
Canopy Glued On!
Milestone!
Canopy got affixed to the frame tonight.
With the help of my son, Bryan and my buddy, Larry, we got the canopy Sikaflexed to the frame. It is a three man job. One person inside to tool the oozing Sika around the perimeter, one person on each side to tool the Sika from those edges.
Spread the Sika around the frame, set the canopy on the frame and clamped it lightly to the hoop, then spread the Sika to the side skirts, clecoed them in place, tooled the extra Sika out from the edges, and had a beer.
We'll wait 48 hours for it to set, then remove the clamps and see if it tips.
Milestone!
Canopy got affixed to the frame tonight.
With the help of my son, Bryan and my buddy, Larry, we got the canopy Sikaflexed to the frame. It is a three man job. One person inside to tool the oozing Sika around the perimeter, one person on each side to tool the Sika from those edges.
Spread the Sika around the frame, set the canopy on the frame and clamped it lightly to the hoop, then spread the Sika to the side skirts, clecoed them in place, tooled the extra Sika out from the edges, and had a beer.
We'll wait 48 hours for it to set, then remove the clamps and see if it tips.
Canopy Faring Begun
I prepped for the canopy faring the past couple of days by cutting all the fabric (carbon cloth) for the epoxy layup and scuffing the cowl and the canopy with P80 paper.
Plans say set aside 4 hours for the layup and I used every minute of that. Also, used carbon fiber cloth instead of glass cloth because I had some and it's easier to cut into narrow strips without raveling. Also, it's higher tech, so why not?
It looks smoother than this pic appears. Actually, the curvature is quite close to the 4" radius called for in the plans.
I didn't Sikaflex the forward part of the canopy, but used the little fabricated clips and pop riveted them to the cowl as per plans.
The final step before sanding to shape is peel ply on top, let it cure, sand to shape. This canopy is never coming loose. And, touch wood, won't crack. I hope I didn't just jinx myself.
I also wanted to include some closeups of the Sikaflex results from a couple days ago. Those upper holes on the canopy rail are where the screws would go through to attach the canopy. I closed them up with epoxy/balloons for extra slickness.
This process worked out great and I would do it again instead of risking cracking another canopy with sharp tools.
The lack of screws, albeit countersunk, should give me at least +0.1KTAS
I prepped for the canopy faring the past couple of days by cutting all the fabric (carbon cloth) for the epoxy layup and scuffing the cowl and the canopy with P80 paper.
Plans say set aside 4 hours for the layup and I used every minute of that. Also, used carbon fiber cloth instead of glass cloth because I had some and it's easier to cut into narrow strips without raveling. Also, it's higher tech, so why not?
It looks smoother than this pic appears. Actually, the curvature is quite close to the 4" radius called for in the plans.
I didn't Sikaflex the forward part of the canopy, but used the little fabricated clips and pop riveted them to the cowl as per plans.
The final step before sanding to shape is peel ply on top, let it cure, sand to shape. This canopy is never coming loose. And, touch wood, won't crack. I hope I didn't just jinx myself.
I also wanted to include some closeups of the Sikaflex results from a couple days ago. Those upper holes on the canopy rail are where the screws would go through to attach the canopy. I closed them up with epoxy/balloons for extra slickness.
This process worked out great and I would do it again instead of risking cracking another canopy with sharp tools.
The lack of screws, albeit countersunk, should give me at least +0.1KTAS
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Canopy Faring Bodywork
I removed the peel ply the morning and began searching for a block to sand the radius to 4" . Turns out the back of a rubber sanding block is an exact fit. Nice. Saved time required to fabricate it.
Once the initial epoxy is sanded to match the top of the electrical tape, any low spots can be filled with a mixture of epoxy and 401. I like this stuff better than bondo because it is basically the same epoxy used previously, but filled with a very easy to sand filler. Makes a nice finish.
I removed the peel ply the morning and began searching for a block to sand the radius to 4" . Turns out the back of a rubber sanding block is an exact fit. Nice. Saved time required to fabricate it.
Once the initial epoxy is sanded to match the top of the electrical tape, any low spots can be filled with a mixture of epoxy and 401. I like this stuff better than bondo because it is basically the same epoxy used previously, but filled with a very easy to sand filler. Makes a nice finish.
Canopy Faring Bodywork, contin
Shaped the Epoxy and 401 today. Then, removed the electrical tape.
Now, the ridge created by the electrical tape needs to be tapered. So, I placed some more electrical tape 1/2" from where the epoxy ends. I then added some epoxy and 401 to the ridge. I will sand this to a feathered taper after it cures, then prime it.
Shaped the Epoxy and 401 today. Then, removed the electrical tape.
Now, the ridge created by the electrical tape needs to be tapered. So, I placed some more electrical tape 1/2" from where the epoxy ends. I then added some epoxy and 401 to the ridge. I will sand this to a feathered taper after it cures, then prime it.
Canon Faring Bodywork, contin
Sanded the feathered edge of the faring this morning, then rolled on some primer surfacer. I will roll on some more primer surfacer to cover all the P80 grit scratches, then sand all with P180. After that, I will prime again and then paint.
After the first primer surfacer dried, I removed the electrical tape on the forward edge, sanded it all down with P180 to remove the P80 scratches and taper the forward edge, then applied a second coat of primer surfacer. Tomorrow this will get glazing putty to fill any pinholes and remaining P80 scratches the primer surfacer didn't get. Then, it all gets sanded again with P220 prior to final primer.
Sanded the feathered edge of the faring this morning, then rolled on some primer surfacer. I will roll on some more primer surfacer to cover all the P80 grit scratches, then sand all with P180. After that, I will prime again and then paint.
After the first primer surfacer dried, I removed the electrical tape on the forward edge, sanded it all down with P180 to remove the P80 scratches and taper the forward edge, then applied a second coat of primer surfacer. Tomorrow this will get glazing putty to fill any pinholes and remaining P80 scratches the primer surfacer didn't get. Then, it all gets sanded again with P220 prior to final primer.
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Canopy Faring Bodywork, contin
After applying another coat of primer, two locations appeared that require more smoothing on the port side where the canopy enters the side rails. The starboard side looks very smooth, but I want the transition on the port side to be more invisible.
After applying another coat of primer, two locations appeared that require more smoothing on the port side where the canopy enters the side rails. The starboard side looks very smooth, but I want the transition on the port side to be more invisible.
Canopy Faring Bodywork, contin
So, I sanded the areas shown previously to get rid of the bulge where the faring met the skin on the port side. I couldn't get the faring to match the surrounding skin below it by just sanding, so had to apply a thin layer of epoxy and 401 to fill the valley a bit. I also added a little more epoxy and 401 to the tapered transition where the canopy meets the side skin to smooth this area out.
Sanded the previous primer surfacer with P180 and now there are very few areas that appear higher than the surrounding primer and should blend nicely. So, now these areas can be urethane primered and sanded with P400 to accept the paint.
So, I sanded the areas shown previously to get rid of the bulge where the faring met the skin on the port side. I couldn't get the faring to match the surrounding skin below it by just sanding, so had to apply a thin layer of epoxy and 401 to fill the valley a bit. I also added a little more epoxy and 401 to the tapered transition where the canopy meets the side skin to smooth this area out.
Sanded the previous primer surfacer with P180 and now there are very few areas that appear higher than the surrounding primer and should blend nicely. So, now these areas can be urethane primered and sanded with P400 to accept the paint.
Canopy Faring Bodywork, contin
Sanded the primer with P400 today. Looks and feels good. No more bodywork needed. Also, started installing the front seals, but will wait to complete this installation as well as the side seals after I remove the canopy from the fuse. While the canopy was attached, I installed the locating pins on the side rails and drilled the side rail to accept the locating plate.
Sanded the primer with P400 today. Looks and feels good. No more bodywork needed. Also, started installing the front seals, but will wait to complete this installation as well as the side seals after I remove the canopy from the fuse. While the canopy was attached, I installed the locating pins on the side rails and drilled the side rail to accept the locating plate.
Canopy and Window Fitment
Got the canopy mostly done by adding all the seals to the side skirts and forward edge. Hinge seals are left to do. So, started fitting the window today. Cut it to fit and polished the forward end. A quick fit to see if it all lines up. Sikaflex will be next.
Got the canopy mostly done by adding all the seals to the side skirts and forward edge. Hinge seals are left to do. So, started fitting the window today. Cut it to fit and polished the forward end. A quick fit to see if it all lines up. Sikaflex will be next.
Window Install
During the last three days I prepped the window for install. Marked where the fuse met the lexan and sanded the surfaces well in preparation for mating. Then, masked everywhere I didn't want the primer/Sikaflex and glued it onto the fuse.
Here's a kind of step by step:
I painted the baggage area months ago. Problem is, the Sikaflex needs bare metal for max grip. So, I sanded off the paint, primer, etch primer with P60.
You really can't have too many clamps. And, the supports to push the window against the fuse worked great. This takes at least two people to make sure everything is lined up correctly.
During the last three days I prepped the window for install. Marked where the fuse met the lexan and sanded the surfaces well in preparation for mating. Then, masked everywhere I didn't want the primer/Sikaflex and glued it onto the fuse.
Here's a kind of step by step:
I painted the baggage area months ago. Problem is, the Sikaflex needs bare metal for max grip. So, I sanded off the paint, primer, etch primer with P60.
You really can't have too many clamps. And, the supports to push the window against the fuse worked great. This takes at least two people to make sure everything is lined up correctly.
Canopy and Window are Done!
A milestone for sure. Canopy and window are installed and fit well.
Next, I took off the canopy so I could prep the sills for paint. This will be easier to do now so the interior can be installed and the locating pin receivers can be riveted in place. Better to paint the sill now so I don't have to mask stuff later.
I also filled all the holes in the center of the blind rivets for a cleaner look after painting.
Since I have to wait for the urethane primer to set I prepped the canopy for paint by sanding the interface between the faring and the Lexan. This makes a nice smooth transition so it will not be obvious how the Lexan is attached.
The next step in the build is wiring the panel. So, the first wires I decided to attach are the main 6AWG wire from the contactors and the 18 AWG power wire to the alternator circuit breakers. Only eleventy seven more to go! But, it's a start.
A milestone for sure. Canopy and window are installed and fit well.
Next, I took off the canopy so I could prep the sills for paint. This will be easier to do now so the interior can be installed and the locating pin receivers can be riveted in place. Better to paint the sill now so I don't have to mask stuff later.
I also filled all the holes in the center of the blind rivets for a cleaner look after painting.
Since I have to wait for the urethane primer to set I prepped the canopy for paint by sanding the interface between the faring and the Lexan. This makes a nice smooth transition so it will not be obvious how the Lexan is attached.
The next step in the build is wiring the panel. So, the first wires I decided to attach are the main 6AWG wire from the contactors and the 18 AWG power wire to the alternator circuit breakers. Only eleventy seven more to go! But, it's a start.
It appears that 2 bolts on the bell crank are too short. I’ve also attached a picture that was sent to me on how I should do my cotter pins, less lethal.
There is a post on VAF about the aileron pushrod shop head rivets where they protrude through the opening in the aft spar. The shop heads caught the spar during ground work and jammed it. I checked mine and they are close but not able to catch. Check those. Nice work on canopy, I’ll be there soon…hopefully.
Good catch on the bolts. But, they have not been tightened. I checked. I will make a note, though, so I don’t forget.
Thanks.
Sill Finishing
I filled the scratches in the sill created by sanding off the epoxy filling the holes in the center of the rivets yesterday. Today, I sanded the filler smooth and primed over it. Another two coats of primer (1 hour between coats) and I will sand with P400 before painting tomorrow.
I filled the scratches in the sill created by sanding off the epoxy filling the holes in the center of the rivets yesterday. Today, I sanded the filler smooth and primed over it. Another two coats of primer (1 hour between coats) and I will sand with P400 before painting tomorrow.
Negative. Same as upper fuse.
Sills Painting
Fortunately, I bought stock in 3M before masking this off!
This job would have been 1000 times easier if the painting had been done before assembling the sills. But, then I would not have been able to hide the rivets. I like the clean look, and actually, this project only cost 3 days. One half day for masking! That, being today.
I will clear coat this afternoon after the base coat has 2+ hrs to cure.
Final primer sanded with P400:
Basecoat
Once the clear is cured I will be able to install the panel wiring and interior.
Fortunately, I bought stock in 3M before masking this off!
This job would have been 1000 times easier if the painting had been done before assembling the sills. But, then I would not have been able to hide the rivets. I like the clean look, and actually, this project only cost 3 days. One half day for masking! That, being today.
I will clear coat this afternoon after the base coat has 2+ hrs to cure.
Final primer sanded with P400:
Basecoat
Once the clear is cured I will be able to install the panel wiring and interior.
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Sills Complete Wiring Interior Begins
Got the sill pin locators mounted to sills.
Then, I started thinking about mounting the new fuel pump before finishing the wiring through the tunnel to the panel and realized I had not mounted the fuel filters in the wing roots. So, I did that after an email to Steve at Aircraft Specialties to verify the 40 micron Holley filter was the correct one. It is. So, I mounted it and the valve at the wing.
Once that was done I completed the wiring of the sticks. I put a dSub on the pilot sude and a molex on the other. I may change the clunky dsub to a molex, though.
Got the sill pin locators mounted to sills.
Then, I started thinking about mounting the new fuel pump before finishing the wiring through the tunnel to the panel and realized I had not mounted the fuel filters in the wing roots. So, I did that after an email to Steve at Aircraft Specialties to verify the 40 micron Holley filter was the correct one. It is. So, I mounted it and the valve at the wing.
Once that was done I completed the wiring of the sticks. I put a dSub on the pilot sude and a molex on the other. I may change the clunky dsub to a molex, though.
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Fuel Filters at Wing Root
I mounted the fuel filters and valves in the wing roots today. These are pre filters that I got from Aircraft Specialties to go with the AFP Auxiliary fuel pump in the cabin. Mounting the starboard valve required a bit of fabrication since the Adel clamp did not align well with the skin. I had to extend the skin a bit.
This wasn't necessary on the port side.
I mounted the fuel filters and valves in the wing roots today. These are pre filters that I got from Aircraft Specialties to go with the AFP Auxiliary fuel pump in the cabin. Mounting the starboard valve required a bit of fabrication since the Adel clamp did not align well with the skin. I had to extend the skin a bit.
This wasn't necessary on the port side.
