Scott's RV14A: N52XL

[rockitdoc]

Lower Cowl Completed Sans Paint

Got the lower cowl baffle seals installed today, and they both lay flat-ish, at least way better than when I started this process! Satisfied, though.





Also, finished the primer on the oil door, so it's also ready for paint prep.



Satisfying to complete this chapter of the project. The upper cowl is not real easy to mate up with the lower cowl, yet. Hopefully, this will improve as the baffle seals conform to the upper cowl. Right now, I am using my auto lift to keep the lower cowl in position while I insert the pins and attach the upper cowl. I won't have this luxury in the hangar.

 

[rockitdoc]

Baffle Seals

I removed three of my baffle seals that did not fit very well. Replaced them with new silicone from Spruce cut such that each overlaps the adjacent seals better and curved them to bend toward the engine. Should work better. I will seal the gaps where the seals buckle away from the baffle with black RTV.

Before:


After:


Then, I removed the heater muff end plates. It turns out these can cut into the exhaust pipe over time leading to possible CO getting into cabin. Oops. I ordered the better ones made by Rick Robbins at 303 423 7002. $72.50 incl shipping.



While this is apart I am going to remove the restrictor in the muff that surrounds the No. 1 cylinder. It slows down the flow and it's not really needed since the No. 3 cylinder has one.



Then, I made a rectangular hose clamp for the rectangular oil cooler that fits into the round scat tube from the high pressure area above the engine. I guess a round flange on top the oil cooler is not possible?

 

[rockitdoc]

New Heat Muff Ends

Started the process of modifying the heat muffs.

This is the rear muff with the baffle inside. This needs to stay to restrict air flow and build heat.


This is the forward muff with the baffle removed. This gets cut out to improve air flow from the front to the rear muff. Some have indicated if both restrictors are in place, flow is restricted too much.


Got the improved heat muff ends without the razor sharp 'teeth' and installed them. The instructions indicate that a #28 drill to open the mounting holes might be needed to allow the ends to grip better. This wasn't enough on mine. I opened them up with a #26 drill. I also found that a safety wire was needed on the rear muff 'support' to keep it from rotating on the pipe. The plans only call for safety wiring the front 'support'.

Now, there should be no risk of the muffs cutting into the pipe with the elimination of the interior 'teeth'.

View attachment 33207



I feel better about this already.

 

[rockitdoc]

Control Cables Install

Got the throttle, prop, mixture and heater control cables installed today after first powder coating the bracket on the panel. It's tougher than it appears.



Especially, if you have the EXP119 motor already mounted.

The firewall penetration for the throttle and mixture cables has a double ball jointed piece that was installed way back in Section 28 or something. THAT would have been the time to run the cables through! A 10 minute job with no expletives. I did it in accordance with the plans. So, the engine was in the way as well as all the plumbing. NOT a 10 minute job. Many expletives if you are working alone. I'm not sure two or three people would help, actually. Little room for even one hand, let alone two or three.

 

[rockitdoc]

FWF 'Almost' Done

I say almost, because the wiring isn't done.

However, all the controls are connected to something. This was a much longer process than anticipated. What a shock!

Anyway, got the throttle, mixture, prop and alt air controls completed without TOO much drama. The throttle and mixture connections flummoxed me a bit, but with the help of this forum (thanks everyone!) I got the panel knobs to open and close the throttle and mixture arms from stop to stop completely.

The heater door controls were not too difficult except for the usual crawling on belly under the panel issues.

The exit door controls were another story. These would be SIGNIFICANTLY easier to complete with no hulking engine mounted. I highly recommend this operation be done before hanging engine!

But, where there's a will...

Controls all in:



Effects





Alt Air and Exit Door Controls out:



Effects:





This is the view from the rear of the exit door looking at the cable connection.



This is relatively easy to reach with the door open. Unfortunately, you can't connect the cable with the door open. It has to be connected with the door closed. This means accessing from the front where the HUGE engine is located blocking access and your view.

I used mirrors, magnets and three attempts to get my blood pressure under lethal numbers. This produced a clearer head and I prevailed.

Turns out that a few turns on the locknut just to hold the cable snug is enough to allow opening the door. Then access from the rear allows full tightening and bending of the cable so it can't get loose.

 

[rockitdoc]

Power Distribution Architecture. Wheew!

I finally got the power distribution to a place I think I like. After lots of help from this forum. Thanks, everyone.

If there is anything that jumps out, or even trivial things, that you see that should be brought to my attention, I would greatly appreciate it. THIS is really outside my wheelhouse.


View attachment Wiring Diagram v2.5.pdf

 

[pazmanyflyer]

The firewall penetration for the throttle and mixture cables has a double ball jointed piece that was installed way back in Section 28 or something.

Can someone provide the part number for this dual cable cable fitting? I'm building a -7 so I don't have the 14 plan set. I like the idea to install this allowing me to run a second throttle cable without having to drill the firewall again.

 

[rockitdoc]

View attachment 34111

Can someone provide the part number for this dual cable cable fitting? I'm building a -7 so I don't have the 14 plan set. I like the idea to install this allowing me to run a second throttle cable without having to drill the firewall again.

Here you go: http://www.doubleteeproducts.com/doubleteefirewallproducts/

 

[rockitdoc]

Got the throttle, prop, mixture and heater control cables installed today after first powder coating the bracket on the panel. It's tougher than it appears.

View attachment 33281

Especially, if you have the EXP119 motor already mounted.

The firewall penetration for the throttle and mixture cables has a double ball jointed piece that was installed way back in Section 28 or something. THAT would have been the time to run the cables through! A 10 minute job with no expletives. I did it in accordance with the plans. So, the engine was in the way as well as all the plumbing. NOT a 10 minute job. Many expletives if you are working alone. I'm not sure two or three people would help, actually. Little room for even one hand, let alone two or three.

View attachment 33282

That double holed, spherical doodad on the FW for the throttle and mixture cables is from these guys:

http://www.doubleteeproducts.com

 

[rockitdoc]

The NEXT Iteration of the power distribution design

This is version 2.8, and counting:

View attachment Wiring Diagram v2.8.pdf

I abandoned the 'hot' bus after much discussion in favor of just two bits (baggage light and stall horn) on the hot side of the master contactor protected with fusible links.

I also eliminated one of the Hall Effect sensors since only one alternator will be working at a time.

 

[rockitdoc]

Oil Preheater Mostly Installed

I got the Reiff preheater installed yesterday and today with my son Bryan's help. The bands going around the cylinders would have been MUCH easier to install before the baffles went on. The baffles cling to the cylinders pretty well, so there is not enough room to sneak the band heaters through. Some filing and bending was required with little room to work. But, we got it done. The oil cooler heater was much simpler. Just glued it to the side of the cooler and ran the wires.

I opted for positioning the 110v plug at the rear with access from the oil inspection door. Because this requires cutting a hole in the baffle at the rear, I decided to remove the what-looked-to-my-untrained eye Molex connectors. This allowed a smaller hole be cut in the baffle. But, the connectors were in fact AMP connectors I found out upon calling Reiff. I ruined one with my Molex extraction tool. Ordered several more from Digikey. Turned out I wouldn't have needed to remove the connectors. I had to shorten the 110v wires to make it fit better. So, routing the wire through the baffle was easy once it was cut. I spliced it back together with butt connectors, sealed it with shrink tubing, and wrapped it with fire sleeve.

This system is going to work out well on cold winter flying days. I plan to set up a wifi system so I can call the heater to turn on the unit a couple of hours before starting the engine.

 

[rockitdoc]

Routed Some Wires, Mounted Volt Reg, Fuse Block

Did some preliminary wire routing today, but mostly fabricated a support for the fuse block on the sub panel, mounted the voltage regulator for the backup alternator, mounted the stall warning horn, the dimmers for the panel and the USB extension from the back of the PFD.





Oh, yeah, I also removed the right Pmag in order to gain better access to the backup alternator lower left mounting nut. I will tackle the backup alternator mounting tomorrow. It's supposed to be a bear to access the lower left nut. Bought the special SnapOn crow's foot, just in case.

 

[rockitdoc]

Alternator#2 Installed!

This wasn't as bad as some have described. But, it did require that the starboard P Mag come off to gain better access to the nut at the lower/port corner holding the alternator on. Without removing the P Mag, this would be nearly impossible to accomplish.

It still requires a bit of ingenuity. I put a small magnet on the nut to hold it against the stud. Then, VERY CAREFULLY, turned the nut with a long screwdriver until one thread grabbed. This took a few attempts, but I finally got it. About 30 minutes after the P mag was off.

The photos below show the magnet/nut/stud, then the nut on the stud.





Once the nuts are on the studs, they still have to be torqued to 90-110 in-lbs. This is tricky since a socket won't fit in the tight space. But, Snap-on makes a crow's foot especially for this application. And, although this could probably be done without this tool, the job is significantly easier with it.

 

[rockitdoc]

Another Panel ?

Yes. I decided against an alternator switch. Instead, using a circuit breaker. One for each alternator. Also, no avionics switch. This meant designing a new panel.

Try this out:

 

[rockitdoc]

Panel Design Changed....Again!

Flew with a buddy in his -14 yesterday (Thanks, again, Jason).

Based on this experience, I changed the layout of the panel again.

Moved everything away from below the center of the PFD becuz of potential interference with stick. Moved light switches to lower starboard of PFD and grouped them, accordingly.

Moved ELT to starboard of MFD.
Moved CBs and pitot heat to below MFD.

Simple. Nothing in front of pilot that is not needed for flight.

This has been the hardest part of the build, to date. But, the canopy awaits....!

As usual, if there is something obviously stupid about this, chime in, please. This is the third piece of AL I've cut up. Getting good at it.

 

[bjdecker]

Flew with a buddy in his -14 yesterday (Thanks, again, Jason).

Based on this experience, I changed the layout of the panel again.

Moved everything away from below the center of the PFD becuz of potential interference with stick. Moved light switches to lower starboard of PFD and grouped them, accordingly.

Moved ELT to starboard of MFD.
Moved CBs and pitot heat to below MFD.

Simple. Nothing in front of pilot that is not needed for flight.

This has been the hardest part of the build, to date. But, the canopy awaits....!

As usual, if there is something obviously stupid about this, chime in, please. This is the third piece of AL I've cut up. Getting good at it.

View attachment 34727

You must be exceptionally tall, like 8' or so.

Most of us have cut the stick down so the top of it doesn't interfere with the bottom of the panel...

 

[rockitdoc]

You must be exceptionally tall, like 8' or so.

Most of us have cut the stick down so the top of it doesn't interfere with the bottom of the panel...

Think Avatar.

 

[rockitdoc]

Easily Removable Switches Project

I had my switches all mounted directly to the panel and kept thinking that making them more readily removable might make sense.

So, today I started the process of fabricating a panel-on-top-of-the-panel scheme.

Basically, I just fabbed a smaller panel to mount the switches on that could be screwed to the main panel. That way, in case of maintenance issues or alterations in the switch arrangement, ie, new switches, added switches, only the outer panel that screws to the main panel needs to be modified, not the whole panel.











The strip on the back is drilled for the 'keeper' that is needed to keep the Honeywell switches from rotating. This way, a hole doesn't show through the front of the panel.






I also fabricated a copper bus bar for the two alternator circuit breakers. I used a piece of copper pipe from a local (ferguson) plumbing shop. Cut it, straightened it, pounded flat and cut it into a strip for the CBs.





I made it longer in case more CBs are added later.

 

[rockitdoc]

Pilot Panel Switches v1.0

I mounted the switches below the PFD on their removable panel today. Tomorrow I will fabricate a similar removable panel for the switches to port of the PFD.

This shows how the removable panel is fabricated. It's a bit more complicated because of the Honeywell switches which have that little washer with the pin to keep the switch from rotating. The narrower aluminum strip being drilled is the piece that has a hole drilled in it to accept the special 'keeper' washer in back of the switch.

By drilling both pieces together it assures alignment.

I made the removable panel longer to accommodate four more switches, just in case.... But, I can't imagine wanting to modify this someday!

 

[rockitdoc]

Pilot Panel Switches v1.1

Today I fabricated the removable panel for the Master, Pmags and Start switches/button. I ran out of the one-sided 6-32 nutplates that work so well in tight corners. Ordered more and will complete this phase of the panel next week.

I am pretty happy with the arrangement, so far. Next up will be the co-pilot side. The plan is to do the same treatment on that side as the pilot's side, ie, a removable bottom portion with space for the one switch shown (pitot heat) and accommodation for three more. The circuit breakers will also be set up so two more can be added in the future if needed.

I currently have my USBs that service the EFISs mounted underneath the panel, but, I think they are going to be cumbersome to reach in that location. And, considering these may get a fair amount of use upgrading software, I am going to move them to the front of the panel.

 

[Mark33]

I had my switches all mounted directly to the panel and kept thinking that making them more readily removable might make sense…..

This is how I did mine on my -7. My -14 panel layout will be very similar. The removal switch panels make servicing very easy.

 

[rockitdoc]

CoPilot Panel Switches v1.0

I started building the removable panel switch and circuit breaker assembly yesterday. Got the holes drilled in both pieces of aluminum and the switch and CBs mounted. Today, I will cut the holes in the panel, build the removable panel for the starboard side of the panel in front of the copilot and prepare everything for nut plates.

 

[rockitdoc]

Panel v3.0

After many sleepless nights over-thinking this panel layout, I have settled (tentatively) on this one.

Changes:

1. ACS-type ignition switch- Benefits include a key (minimum security, but some), familiarity, mags and starter in one switch, low profile

2. Two buttons for testing Pmags instead of Honeywells I was using

3. Two USBs for installing software updates added to front of panel. Two USBs still reside under the panel, but are used for wifi adapters.

4. Moved ELT module to co-pilot side.

5. These changes make it possible to add a GPS navigator to either side of panel next to EFISs.

 

[rockitdoc]

Wiring and Console Fabrication

Today I had a modest goal to run landing/taxi light wires from the wing roots to the switch panel and connect the Molexes to match the ones already in the wing. Only got the starboard side done as I ran out of yellow wire.




So, after ordering more wire, I decided to fabricate a removable panel in the console between the seats where my USB outlets and seat heater switches reside. I need to source a small red LED to warn of seat heater being on. Unless I can work this warning into the PFD somehow.

 

[rockitdoc]

Seat Heater Switches Changed and USB added to Panel

Yesterday I discovered that the wiring harness and switches for the seat heaters were stored in my hangar. Out of sight, out of mind. The switches I had planned were just on-off toggles. The switches that came with the seat heater kit are low-off-high. Way better. And, they have an LED to indicate they are on. Glad I found them. But, I had to re-fabricate the panel to fit the new switches. No big deal.

Also, my two additional USB extensions came from Dynon. So, I mounted them on the front of the panel for easier access. The USB extensions under the panel will be used for the wifi adapters for each EFIS.

At this point, 'I think' the panel is pretty finalized. I got two more buttons for testing the Pmags from Mouser yesterday. They have a smaller footprint than the ones I was going to use. P3-7 style Ottos, instead of P3-3 Ottos. My ACS ignition switch was supposed to be here yesterday from Spruce, but FedEx delayed delivery, AGAIN, to Monday. This is the second time FedEx has delayed delivery for no apparent reason. The last time, the shipment sat in their facility near Denver for a week before they finally decided to drive it up here. UPS and USPS have been WAY more reliable, at least for me, here. I will avoid using FedEx until things change.

 

[rockitdoc]

Panel v 3.2

I decided to move the USB on the pilot side of the panel closer to the center because it was a bit of a reach for the 12" cable. A 24" version is available, but that adds a lot more cable than needed.



Here is the rear view both port and starboard. The USB mounted on the bottom of the panel is visible as well as the USB mounted to the front.






The USB mounted to the bottom of the panel will be used for the wifi adapter, which I will just keep inserted.

 

[rockitdoc]

ELT Mounting

I received my ELT a couple days ago so today I mounted the remote in the panel.

First, decided to put it vertically far to the starboard side of the panel away from other parts.

Drilled the multiple holes and filed them out to create a rough hole.





Then, filed everything smooth and positioned the ELT remote for drilling/countersinking mounting holes.



Attached the removable panel to the main panel.



View from behind.

 

[rockitdoc]

Refabricated Center Console

I started fitting the carpet and interior panels yesterday and discovered the way I had the heated seat switches oriented wouldn't work with the way the carpet is fabricated from Classic Aero Designs who I bought the interior from.

So, I fabricated a new panel for the USB ports and seat heater switches so they all fit inside the aluminum surround supplied by Classic Aero.



The next challenge is to figure out the rest of the interior panel puzzle. No instructions came with the interior and the panels are a bit difficult to figure out where they go or how to attach them. The carpet was pretty easy. The leather panels, not so much. Puzzles are fun, though.

 

[rockitdoc]

Eyeball Vents

I had already fabricated a way to mount my eyeball vents before the interior kit arrived. When I started installing the kit today it turned out the flange supplied in the interior kit was too large to hold my eyeballs. So, I fabricated a new flange.

 

[rockitdoc]

Eyeball Vent Options

I think I have decided on the aluminum vs black. But, will bead blast the aluminum to satin and clear powdercoat it.

 

[rockitdoc]

Sticks Adjusted

I had to adjust my sticks/grips (Tostens) so at full dive, they don't hit the panel. The solution was to cut 3-1/2" off the top of each stick (3-1/4" is recommended by Tosten) and use a modified bushing that Tosten makes that cants the grip in relation to the stick about 10 degrees aft.



The bushing had to be shortened about 1/2" and rounded at the bottom so as not to interfere with the curvature of the stick.

 

[rockitdoc]

Sticks Do Not Interfere with Panel

Turns out that by shortening the aft pushrod for elevator and lengthening the mid pushrod the stick can be adjusted quite a bit fore and aft. I shortened the aft rod 1/4" and the mid the same with a resulting aft movement of the sticks nearly 1-1/2"! Now the sticks clear the heater controls knobs even at full pull.

 

[rockitdoc]

All Avionics 'Boxes' Have Homes

I rearranged the panel again. I didn't like where the USB receptacles were. I moved them both to the far right on the copilot panel. I 'think' this is the final version (v3.3). All the startup bits are far to port. All lights are under the MFD. Center stack contains flaps, fuel, A/P and far to starboard are the USB's and ELT.



Finally got all the electronics boxes mounted behind the panel. This is a bigger job than it might seem. Nearly everything has to be custom fabricated so the bits don't interfere with each other and so the wires have room. Now, I can route all the wires, secure the wires and hook up everything.

 

[rockitdoc]

Sticks Wired

I wired both sticks over the past few days. Used dSubs instead of Molex. Got the harness secured and checked all for continuity. All checks out! It should work. Only question I have is that the wire for A/P disconnect (yellow) does not seem to be connected to the large 50 pin dSub, at least according to the plans. But the wire disappears into the 50 pin shell, so not sure what this is about. I'll call Vans.

 

[rockitdoc]

Wired the Canopy Switch

Installed the canopy switch and wired it today.





Not sure that the wires should exit the canopy all the way forward like I have them, now. Probably have to exit them aft somewhat so they don't get smashed into the sub panel with the canopy closed.

 

[rockitdoc]

Painting Forward Canopy

I was wiring the canopy for fans, canopy latch switch and panel lights, but realized that painting it before finalizing all the wiring would be the next step. Easier to paint it, now, before mounting the fans and leds. So, my son and I started prepping it.





After a good scuff with Maroon Scotchbrite I prepped the gun





And shot the wash prime





I will wait until 4 today to shoot the urethane primer, then tomorrow I'll shoot the color and clear coat. The timing is important since the urethane primer has to be scuffed if left more than 16 hours until color. So, tomorrow at 7a color goes on. Clear after that and by Monday morning everything should be cured so I can wire the canopy.

 

[rockitdoc]

Canopy Primed and Painted

So, the urethane primer went on last night at 4p.






And today at 6a I shot the silver base coat and two clear coats




The rest of today I will install my master switch, ignition switch (backordered since December '22) and the two Pmag test buttons.

 

[rockitdoc]

'Final' Panel

This is what my panel finally looks like, I think.

Got the Master, Ignition and Pmag Buttons installed today while canopy cures. I will wire the canopy switch, fans and red and panel lights tomorrow.

 

[rockitdoc]

Connecting the Alternators

I had to fabricate a siamese connection so that there weren't too many lugs attached to my contactors.

I used the Knuckolls endorsed method of combining the 6AWG and 10AWG B Leads from my alternators into one ring terminal for connection at the contactors. This eliminates on lug which allows enough room to thread on the nut.

The 6AWG and two 10AWG wires fit inside a 4AWG lug nicely. I un-twisted them a bit to combine and then twisted them together a bit. Crimped on the 4AWG lug and then covered with shrink. Should work splendidly.

 

[rockitdoc]

Added Slack and Covers

Added some more slack to that Alt B lead from the backup Alt and booted the lead at the Alt and put covers on the Midis.

 

[rockitdoc]

Hall Effect Sensor Mounted!

I finally got the Hall effect sensor for measuring battery current mounted. I decided on an Adel clamp #23 which fit pretty snug. To make sure the sensor can't shake loose, I added some RTV sealant all around the sensor and on the outside. Should stay put. Getting it on the firewall is harder than it looks. But, I used a 3-7A bolt and threaded the shoulder back a bit so the bolt would reach the nut plate while trying to squeeze the two Adel clamps together.



Tomorrow will be a milestone. The only wires left to penetrate the FW are the cylinder head and exhaust gas temperature wires from the EMS outboard.

 

[rockitdoc]

Spaghetti Anyone?

Man, it's a lot of spaghetti. I'm glad I know what it all does and where it goes and is coming from!

I wish there was a road map for the best ways to manage all these wires. So far, it's just been a matter of finding some place to mount stuff and tying it off.

Anyway....the port side has everything (I think) coming and going through the FW so it is almost time to seal it up. Of course I won't until the last minute, just in case I forgot something.

Now, I'm really glad I remote mounted the oil filter. There's enough in the way as it is.

 

[rockitdoc]

Slight detour away from wiring

I got some little aluminum discs to use for guards at the tow bar inserts on the nose wheel pant from a fellow builder (thanks Larry).

Drilled a 7/8" hole in the center to accommodate the tow bar, bead blasted and rounded the edges for aero (at least a 0.1 kt gain by my calculations) and powder coated clear to match my silver/white paint scheme. Came out nice I think.

Tomorrow I will complete the fire sleeves on the firewall pass throughs for the wiring and this will complete the FWF wiring chapter.

 

[wirejock]

Tow bar guards

Wow! That came out nice.

 

[rockitdoc]

Wow! That came out nice.

Thanks to you, buddy!

 

[gasman]

Man, it's a lot of spaghetti. I'm glad I know what it all does and where it goes and is coming from!

I wish there was a road map for the best ways to manage all these wires. So far, it's just been a matter of finding some place to mount stuff and tying it off.

Anyway....the port side has everything (I think) coming and going through the FW so it is almost time to seal it up. Of course I won't until the last minute, just in case I forgot something.

Now, I'm really glad I remote mounted the oil filter. There's enough in the way as it is.

View attachment 37978

View attachment 37979

Wait till you try to remove the oil screen from the sump, mags, prop gov. or fuel pump, or accessory case for the next oil pump AD.... Plan ahead now.

Run as much as you can along the motor mount tubes, they are already in your way. Your two main wire penetration's in the firewall should be in the upper right and left corner next to the motor mount.

Even if you need to use more wire from the motor to the firewall, follow the motor mounts.

 

[Mark33]

Wait till you try to remove the oil screen from the sump, mags, prop gov. or fuel pump, or accessory case for the next oil pump AD.... Plan ahead now.

Run as much as you can along the motor mount tubes, they are already in your way. Your two main wire penetration's in the firewall should be in the upper right and left corner next to the motor mount.

Even if you need to use more wire from the motor to the firewall, follow the motor mounts.

Just to add to the thought of “planning ahead”, what do you guys think about using circular “cannon plug” connectors for all FWF wiring? I know there’s a chance of signal degradation with regards to precise measurements such as CHT and EGT reporting, but if quality mil spec pugs are used, is this really an issue in real life? I know it’s always better to keep wires solid, but for ease of maintenance, it sure would be nice to be able to “unplug” the engine from the airframe.

 

[rockitdoc]

Fuel Tank Vents

Connected my fuel tank vents to the slick streamlined ones that JDAir supplies.

Since my wings are QBs, the fuel tank and AN-4 vents were already installed. This makes adding the JDAir vents impossible without adding an extension to the AN-4 vents already installed. It's a bit clunky because an AN-4 female-female has to be added to the get the JDAir fitting to clear the wing and aileron hardware. It would be cleaner if I could use an AN-4 female to male fitting. This would eliminate one fitting, but a search did not turn up such a thing.

 

[Mark33]

Connected my fuel tank vents to the slick streamlined ones that JDAir supplies.

Since my wings are QBs, the fuel tank and AN-4 vents were already installed. This makes adding the JDAir vents impossible without adding an extension to the AN-4 vents already installed. It's a bit clunky because an AN-4 female-female has to be added to the get the JDAir fitting to clear the wing and aileron hardware. It would be cleaner if I could use an AN-4 female to male fitting. This would eliminate one fitting, but a search did not turn up such a thing.

View attachment 38271

How about something like this?
https://www.jegs.com/i/Vibrant-Performance/231/10585/10002/-1

 

[rockitdoc]

How about something like this?
https://www.jegs.com/i/Vibrant-Performance/231/10585/10002/-1

That woukd work if the female is a swivel. Thanks. I’ll check itout.