Van's Air Force
The definitive Van's Aircraft support community! Buying, building or flying an RV? Join our exclusive family of mentors and enthusiasts!
OP-43 Access Kit
- Thread starter rdt7
- Start date
Without the access panels getting to the canopy release and routing cables and wires would be VERY difficult. Especially after the plane is fully assembled. I put them in
I did everything wiring/boxen/etc with the front top skin prepped and ready to rivet, but not riveted on. Everything is between the panel and the sub panel, and nothing is behind the sub panel to firewall space. Every box is screwed on with nut plates so anything in the sub panel space can come out if it wants. After the top skin was on, it was a slightly difficult thing but def not too difficult to install the gas struts and canopy. So I don't have those access panels and don't miss them. YMMV.
I installed them. I haven't installed avionics yet but I'm guessing I'll mount my grounding block between the firewall and sub panel. Will the VPX Pro go in that area too??? I dunno. What I do know is I want access to that area after the top is riveted on. Wires come up through that area from the tunnel. Replacing the gas struts or remote canopy release cable would be easier. If I had the flexibility of a 20 year old and was 5' 5", I might skip the access panels. But, I'm over 60 and 6' 4". Laying on my back on the floor reaching up under the panel makes my back hurt just thinking about it. I want to avoid doing that as much as possible.
Last edited:
pheer
Member
I have two G3X, GTN750Xi, GMC-507 autopilot controller and a G5 on my pannel. The rest are remote access boxes, VPX plus interface modules. With that I simply ran out real estate for all the hardware and had to use space of sub pannel to firewall. Without the OP43 kit life would have been very difficult, … if not Impossible. So yes OP43 a must have in my view.
I installed these, which was a pretty straightforward job, and have found them to be useful.
If I was doing it again, I would fabricate a set of spacer rings to go between the top skin and the mounting flanges, maybe .020"-.032" thick. These would cause the mounting flanges to be recessed slightly, which would make it much easier to get a good seal later on when you do your cure-in-place gaskets.
If I was doing it again, I would fabricate a set of spacer rings to go between the top skin and the mounting flanges, maybe .020"-.032" thick. These would cause the mounting flanges to be recessed slightly, which would make it much easier to get a good seal later on when you do your cure-in-place gaskets.
Last edited:
Another vote for yes. Anything to keep you from crawling around by the rudder pedals…..
Installed the access kit on my RV-9 after flying it for 2 years. One of the better things I've ever done.
I installed them. I can honestly say that if I hadn't, I'd have probably sold my project. Just a month ago the cooling fan went out on my GTN-650. With the panels it was a 30 minute job to replace. Without, I'd have had to pull the stack since the fan is mounted on the backside of the tray.
Note: The brown modeled looking stuff around the mounting flange is plumber's putty for waterproofing. Does a great job without allowing the panel to protrude. Needs to be reapplied after removing the panel.
Note: The brown modeled looking stuff around the mounting flange is plumber's putty for waterproofing. Does a great job without allowing the panel to protrude. Needs to be reapplied after removing the panel.
czechsix
Well Known Member
Has anyone with an RV-14 actually tried replacing the struts through these access panels? Seems like a job that requires at least two hands, and since the struts are off to the sides I'm wondering if you can get both arms in there far enough to reach them without having someone else lying on the floor under the panel to help...?
Also, has anyone had issues with the access panels oil canning? I've seen two RVs with similar access panels that were oil canned in or out...one on a -7 and the other a -14, and don't know if they were made with Van's kit or not, but they looked a bit unsightly.
For the above reasons, I've been mulling putting larger access panels in the curved sides of the skin instead of the flat center section. It's more work to roll your own and get the access cover curved to fit properly, but it won't oil can and seems easier to stand next to the airplane & reach inside to work on things. Others have done this, like this example from Marvin McGraw's -14.
Also, has anyone had issues with the access panels oil canning? I've seen two RVs with similar access panels that were oil canned in or out...one on a -7 and the other a -14, and don't know if they were made with Van's kit or not, but they looked a bit unsightly.
For the above reasons, I've been mulling putting larger access panels in the curved sides of the skin instead of the flat center section. It's more work to roll your own and get the access cover curved to fit properly, but it won't oil can and seems easier to stand next to the airplane & reach inside to work on things. Others have done this, like this example from Marvin McGraw's -14.
Attachments
Mine are fine... I think it helps to pre-bend the mounting rings and cover plates to match the contour of the skin, rather than riveting them on flat. That means you need to install them with the skin at least clecoed in place.
This is definitely an area where the RV-3/4 has the advantage over other models!
Last edited:
Mark,
I replaced the original struts with the stronger struts offered by Vans through these access panels (in my opinion, the stronger struts are a must do). Based on the way my avionics are installed, I'm not sure how I'd have done it without the panels providing access.....and yes, it required two hands. Regarding oil canning, if you push hard enough there is some flex, not sure I'd call it oil canning, but it's there. No issue in flight.
As of now, I just turned 100 hours and haven't found a need for additional access.
For me it wasn’t. (Someone had to cast the dissenting vote) I designed my own panel layout and also, where the boxes would all go. It took a while to position everything but I’m quite happy with it. There is nothing in the “bat cave” except my forest of ground tabs. When I did those I temporarily mounted the ground block aft of the sub panel. Ran all my ground wires nice and neat to the block and then, through the glove box opening, bolted it to the firewall. Quite easy, relatively speaking.
I did spend some time on my back routing bundles and Ty wrapping. I can’t say for sure because I don’t have the access holes, but if you have the WH-00125 harness you will have to get in there to connect the 2 dsub blocks to your avionics/power dsubs. The WH-00125 is intentionally made about 16” too long. So you’ll have to coil it and stow it once connected. That was a bit of a pita. Not sure if the access panels will help there.
I’ve been back under a couple times while doing my FWF and it’s not really that bad. I’m 6’ with a bad back. I don’t look forward to it, but it’s not that bad.
I guess it all depends on what you mount in the “bat cave”. All the boxes are easily removable for service.
Note: the yellow arrow is the bottom of the canopy, when closed. Mount everything below that.
rmartingt
Well Known Member
So did I. IMVHO almost a necessity on a slider.
14A. Didn't install. built "floor" behind instrument panel for all the boxes except remote radio. That's in the bat cave. Seem to be able to get to everything. Not fun (85 year- old back and joints) to go under, but doable If the need arises, I know where to find my tools and sheet metal.
glider_rider
Well Known Member
Installed it in my 14 and never used.
Waist of time IMHO
Waist of time IMHO
I went to order it weeks ago, but the OP-43 kits are currently unavailable at the Van’s web store and have been on back order for a long time.
Last edited:
All the parts are available individually with the exception of the doubler which should be easy enough to make out of flat 024/032 (?). The plans have the dimensions for those parts. When seeing an item is on backorder, go to the "Kit Contents" tab and click on ea of the individual part #s. Ive purchased many parts that were listed as B/Ord by just purchasing the components separately.
Case in point when many were hot for the 8 rudder, it showed B/Ord but the components were all available separately.
A
Case in point when many were hot for the 8 rudder, it showed B/Ord but the components were all available separately.
A
Appreciate this comment, usually people back their original choice.
Just recieved my 14 QBF yesterday and inspecting it looks like they did a great job of sealing up everything. Would hate to mess that up by cutting access panels. Thinking about my 10 the only times I've crawled under there was to mess with the pedals/brakes/etc. I purposely didn't mount things off the firewall that were going to need to be touched.
czechsix
Well Known Member
I think I can do without the access panels from an avionics perspective (by mounting the equipment in a more accessible location), but if--or when--I have to replace the canopy struts, it seems like that job would be a real pain to do entirely from underneath the panel. Strategy: forgo installing the access panels and sell the airplane before it needs new struts 
Mark,I think I can do without the access panels from an avionics perspective (by mounting the equipment in a more accessible location), but if--or when--I have to replace the canopy struts, it seems like that job would be a real pain to do entirely from underneath the panel. Strategy: forgo installing the access panels and sell the airplane before it needs new struts
Without the access panels, be sure to upgrade your struts before the original install. The struts that come with the kit are very weak....at least mine where. After barely "catching" the canopy before it slammed shut a couple times, I upgraded to the stronger struts. One of the best things I've done to my airplane!
Bob: highly recommended install, great return on the investment, and I’m still building!
I put panels in because I thought they would help me see what I’m doing; turns out that I’m using them repeatedly.
Access panels helped me:
remove, replace canopy struts;
remove, replace standard battery box (see to drill & buck, esp doubler & angle);
design, install avionics shelf (GTR 20, GAD 29, GEA 24) and GAD 27 aft of sub panel
diagnose, remove, repair, reinstall parking brake valve, brake lines, control cable;
remove, relocate, reinstall remote canopy release handle (OP 63);
replace Andair fuel pump and filter with AFP unit;
use borescope to find & recover items dropped in tunnel;
test fit wiring harness, fuse panel.
planned future uses:
Install voltage regulator, fuse panel, forest of tabs, fwd brackets for avionics rack, stainless heat boxes;
build/test/install avionics & cables; connect all that stuff.
Inspections (troubleshooting, repair) during Phase I, and at least annually after.
YMMV:
I’m putting as much as possible aft of sub panel, copying Todd (#18 above) and others.
Without engine or landing gear, my fuse is low, and I can directly access both sides of firewall.
I put panels in because I thought they would help me see what I’m doing; turns out that I’m using them repeatedly.
Access panels helped me:
remove, replace canopy struts;
remove, replace standard battery box (see to drill & buck, esp doubler & angle);
design, install avionics shelf (GTR 20, GAD 29, GEA 24) and GAD 27 aft of sub panel
diagnose, remove, repair, reinstall parking brake valve, brake lines, control cable;
remove, relocate, reinstall remote canopy release handle (OP 63);
replace Andair fuel pump and filter with AFP unit;
use borescope to find & recover items dropped in tunnel;
test fit wiring harness, fuse panel.
planned future uses:
Install voltage regulator, fuse panel, forest of tabs, fwd brackets for avionics rack, stainless heat boxes;
build/test/install avionics & cables; connect all that stuff.
Inspections (troubleshooting, repair) during Phase I, and at least annually after.
YMMV:
I’m putting as much as possible aft of sub panel, copying Todd (#18 above) and others.
Without engine or landing gear, my fuse is low, and I can directly access both sides of firewall.
glider_rider
Well Known Member
After two yeas of use, one of my canopy struts went tits up. With the access panels installed I decided to replace the strut from behind the panel. That way, I wouldn’t have to go through the hassle of unscrewing the panel and re-sealing it after the job.I think I can do without the access panels from an avionics perspective (by mounting the equipment in a more accessible location), but if--or when--I have to replace the canopy struts, it seems like that job would be a real pain to do entirely from underneath the panel. Strategy: forgo installing the access panels and sell the airplane before it needs new struts
I upgraded the struts from under the panel and it wasn't too bad. The trick is to remove the seat backs so you can stretch out, and use the seat cushions to get real comfortable. (and try to remember to get all the tools you need within arms reach....no fun getting in and out 
These are available again. I just received mine this past week.
