Just finished my RV-10 rudder and trailing edge with the CARD1

[barely]

I just finished the trailing edge on my RV-10 rudder. I used 3M tape as the adhesive between the skins and the wedge.

First, I’m doing almost all of this by myself. I can’t often count on someone to help. I borrowed a DRDT-2 to dimple the vertical stabilizer, and that was a royal pain. Trying to maneuver the skin while pulling the handle was not easy. I didn’t mess up any of the dimples, but I came close a few times.

That experience motivated me to invest in a CARD1 from Clemson Aeronautics. I figured that using the foot pedal on the Numatx mounted to the CARD—giving me two free hands—would make things a lot easier. If I had already had a regular pneumatic squeezer, I'd have used that and added a foot pedal to it, but I already had the Numatx.

It took some fiddling to figure out how to configure the setup for doing the trailing edge. My first thought was to use the usual PSI-based control for the 1/2 set -- leaving the pin with full travel and lowering the PSI way down. I tried that on some scrap, but it wasn’t as consistent as I wanted at the lower pressures. I ended up setting the pin length to achieve the desired rivet squeeze and used normal pressure. I did the same for the angled set.

You can see in the pictures below how clean it came out.

All-in-all, I'm really pleased.

 

[BobTurner]

Welcome to VAF.
I’m also based at LVK, and have a 2011 RV10 that I built solo (it is a QB) 99% of the time. It can be done.

 

[HishamH]

Perfect straight edge on that rudder, great job.

 

[barely]

Welcome to VAF.
I’m also based at LVK, and have a 2011 RV10 that I built solo (it is a QB) 99% of the time. It can be done.

I’ve been a lurker here for the past year or so. Now that I’ve got some momentum going, I expect to be more of a contributor.

Bob, have I met you at the EAA chapter meetings?

 

[JohnnyHip]

I also have the CARD 1 / NUMATX combo. I've found normal rivet setting pressure for a -3 rivet is also sufficient to dimple the skins.

 

[Dougnabbit]

CARD1

 

[Fenderbean]

I have a CAD1 I just used to dimple my horizontal skins on the inner holes and used my numatx to dimple the outer holes. I wish everything could be done with the numatx its such a nicer dimple. The CAD1 does the job but it flexes like all C frames.

 

[barely]

I have a CAD1 I just used to dimple my horizontal skins on the inner holes and used my numatx to dimple the outer holes. I wish everything could be done with the numatx its such a nicer dimple. The CAD1 does the job but it flexes like all C frames.

The CARD1 is heavy as hell. It only flexes if I screw the pin down to touching, add another full turn, and then press with ~60PSI. It also comes with steel "straps" on the side you can add which removes the flex. The forward strap positions give a ~4.5" throat, the rear gives ~7.5". I measured the steel tube of the device. It is ~ 1/4" wall.

What yoke are you using on the Numatx for dimpling?

 

[Fenderbean]

The DRDT2 I have is a lot heavier than the CAD1. I didnt even think to attach the Numatx, I Was just using my other hand squeezer on it.
Yes you can add the braces to prevent flex and do rivets but for big skins u cannot use them so you still get flex.

 

[Richard Connell]

Good work on a nice straight TE!
I’ll get flamed for this but here goes anyway…one man’s opinion on the internet…

The advantage of these types of dimplers are that they are quiet. So if you are in an urban environment and you are dimpling thin skins then there’s that.

But they won’t give a crisp enough #40 dimple in 032 tank skins let alone #6 or #8 dimples. So make sure you know what you’re looking for when you move onto thicker skins than the rudder, and satisfy yourself that you’re getting what you need.

This is covered in section 5. The wording is subtle but the bottom line is that even enough pressure to set a rivet is not enough to get crisp dimples. I gave away my one of these after very brief use in plane #3 and went back to the C frame and a hammer.
Noisy, but foolproof every time.

 

[barely]

The DRDT2 I have is a lot heavier than the CAD1. I didnt even think to attach the Numatx, I Was just using my other hand squeezer on it.
Yes you can add the braces to prevent flex and do rivets but for big skins u cannot use them so you still get flex.

I can’t imagine the weight of a machine with a 22” throat without braces and no flex. I’m sure they exist in commercial shops, but likely way outside my price range

 

[Fenderbean]

So I hooked up my numatx to the CAD1 and currently re-dimpling the skins. just a little time for a much cleaner dimple, cheers. If anyone is interested I did a review on the Clemson Aero dimple and yokes.