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EZ-DRAIN - Emptying (horizontal) Oil Filter

HFS

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Here's a little "gadget" I make to empty horizontal oil filters @ oil change -

YMMV - and probably does!

HFS
 

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Tempest has a product called EZ-Drain. I'm assuming this is something different. Is this something you're selling?
 
I just got one of these from HFS yesterday, and really look forward to trying it out - but unfortunately, I fairly recently changed oil on both of our airplanes with horizontal filters, so it’ll be at least a few months before I get to use it in anger....but I’ll report back when I do!

Paul
 
There was a fairly heated discussion here a few weeks ago, as to whether or not punching a vent hole allowed dirty oil and contaminants to drain back into the engine. I’m not sure a consensus was ever reached?
 
There was a fairly heated discussion here a few weeks ago, as to whether or not punching a vent hole allowed dirty oil and contaminants to drain back into the engine. I’m not sure a consensus was ever reached?

Soooo...if its a taildragger, and all the wheels are on the ground, the back of the oil filter ) on a horizontal filter mount) is going to be measurably lower than the engine end. Punching a hole at the low end and draining from there should keep the oil from flowing uphill, I’d think.

Nose draggers - ya’ll can argue this out among yourselves! ;) (My nose dragger doesn’t have a Lycoming...)
 
I been using something similar made by US Industrial Tool for 20+ years.

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EZ-DRAIN Followup

I didn't mean to "plagiarize" the name - it's just what came to me at the time (25+ years ago).

For my particular situation - first a -4 and then an HR II (both with horizontal filter locations), there isn't much room underneath the filter (because of the rudder "shelf" on the FW) for any draining device - so that's the reason for the 90* elbow. It allows a direction change for the drain tube in the least distance - in my Rocket there is about 3/4" between the underside of the filter and the top of the FW recess, not much room to fit an adequate drainage device.

My idea was just to show a simple MYO solution to a problem that plagues us "horizontal" folks.

Even if they were available back then, both of the links shown above would not clear under my filter when it is rotated down for the drain "cycle".

Total parts cost is about $3.00 - most expensive is the hose clamp (and you might already have one laying around somewhere) @ $1.75, the O-ring is $.25, and the vinyl tubing is around a buck. YMMV of course - but these numbers will be close.

HFS
 
Neat Idea. I am going to make one of those today! Definitely beats holding a bag under the filter. Curious if you need to punch a hold in the top to get it to drain. I believe that the auto filters I use have a diaphragm in them to hold the oil in the filter.

Larry
 
Reading the instructions, it feels like drilling holes in the filter would contaminate the filter element with metallic chips.

For folks who have done this - do the drill chips confound your visual inspection of the filter element after removing the filter and cutting it open?
 
Punching A "Vent" Hole

Yes - If you'll read the instructions - Line 8: Punch or drill "vent" hole at the top of the filter (along the "ridgeline") to insure complete and rapid draining of trapped oil.

HFS
 
Reading the instructions, it feels like drilling holes in the filter would contaminate the filter element with metallic chips.

For folks who have done this - do the drill chips confound your visual inspection of the filter element after removing the filter and cutting it open?

No it has not for the last 20-years I have been doing it. It is easy to identify what you just drilled out.
 
A piece of 1" aluminum angle works for me. It just happens that my firewall stuff facilitates securely laying the angle such that it forms a descending trough from under the oil filter/engine joint all the way out to my drain pan sitting on a roll-around cart. Crack the filter open a couple of turns and go do something else while it drains. At the end, I stand the angle up against the wall so it finishes draining into the pan for a couple of days.
 
I use a "form a funnel" for with the same effect .. on my 7, it sits nicely against the prop governor bracket and very nicely locks in place. Zero drips, ever.
 

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If you want to keep it simple, I've found that if you pack the area under the filter with towels or rags and spin the filter off as fast as you can, almost all of the oil gets contained. To each his own, but cleaning up what little oil drips off is easier than the alternative to me.
 
I had good luck at my last oil change using a form-a-funnel as well. I had to take a picture so I’d remember how to do it next time. I do like the PVC idea though.
 

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One more for form-a-funnel. I've been using one for the last 3 years and really like it. I think I got the idea here on some former post.
 
I had good luck at my last oil change using a form-a-funnel as well. I had to take a picture so I’d remember how to do it next time. I do like the PVC idea though.
It REALLY is ingenious! Best thing is, when you're done, just wipe it down and its ready for the next time. And the length allows you to drain the oil away from the engine and you don't have to fuss with getting the shape right each time. Just put a pan up on a stool, insert half-pipe under the edge of the filter/engine lip, unscrew the filter and let it run.
 
I have always placed a plastic bag under/around the filter, then remove it and all the oil goes in the bag. Simple and cheap.
 
I have always placed a plastic bag under/around the filter, then remove it and all the oil goes in the bag. Simple and cheap.
I haven't experienced very much success with this method ........ always seems to make a mess, sometimes larger than other times. But it's what I use until I can find another method. I'll probably try the form-a-funnel method next time.
 
Soooo...if its a taildragger, and all the wheels are on the ground, the back of the oil filter ) on a horizontal filter mount) is going to be measurably lower than the engine end. Punching a hole at the low end and draining from there should keep the oil from flowing uphill, I’d think.

Nose draggers - ya’ll can argue this out among yourselves! ;) (My nose dragger doesn’t have a Lycoming...)
Time to start pulling the nose wheel up on a block of wood when I do oil changes!
 
I haven't experienced very much success with this method ........ always seems to make a mess, sometimes larger than other times. But it's what I use until I can find another method. I'll probably try the form-a-funnel method next time.
The form-a-funnel is the one technique that’s allowed me to achieve zero mess. Gravity is the key. The oil “wants” to drain from a single spot where the filter unscrews, and every other technique I’ve used ends up multiplying those spots.
 
I haven't experienced very much success with this method ........ always seems to make a mess, sometimes larger than other times. But it's what I use until I can find another method. I'll probably try the form-a-funnel method next time.
Yeah, I tried the bag once. I'd have been better off just letting it drain straight out the hole onto the engine and floor.
 
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