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Cooling the hangar ...

Dave,
To answer your question. At 100 degrees and 65% humidity the wet bulb is about 88 degrees.
My understanding on the process is that the evaporating water drops the air temp to wet bulb temps minus efficiency.
Meaning the cooler would cool your air to about 92 degrees. You can't close the hanger or the humidity will just rise to the point the cooler will do no good other than being a fan.
 
I just ordered one of these after talking to the rep, anyone else have one that can report their results?


Pricey but it's hot. Real hot. And humid. So humid we're just going to swim to the field today.
I think you'd be better off with a $400 portable A/C unit. Best Buy, surprisingly, had the best price when I bought mine. Heck even a regular window A/C on a wheeled cart and duct the hot air outside. You have to duct the hot air outside with a portable unit too. One of those swamp coolers didn't even work here in East Texas, just blew humid air all over and rusts things quicker.
 
I think you'd be better off with a $400 portable A/C unit. Best Buy, surprisingly, had the best price when I bought mine. Heck even a regular window A/C on a wheeled cart and duct the hot air outside. You have to duct the hot air outside with a portable unit too. One of those swamp coolers didn't even work here in East Texas, just blew humid air all over and rusts things quicker.
Agree. In addition to ducting the heat away, we fashioned a quasi plenum with some of the hard cardboard packing material the ac came in and a rectangular to circular duct fitting. With 25 feet of attic insulated ducting, you can turn a relatively small environment very comfortable even in the most extreme conditions. Stick the end of the duct in the cabin you’re working in, point it at you while you’re in your chair, heck even stick it under your shirt for a rapid cooldown although you might be accused of being the Michelin man as I was. Made it through many hot AZ summers. Had swampers too but they’re useless during monsoon. Being able to direct chilled air precisely where you want with the ducting was priceless.
 
I just ordered one of these after talking to the rep, anyone else have one that can report their results?


Pricey but it's hot. Real hot. And humid. So humid we're just going to swim to the field today.
I know that most people don't expect much success from those units ...BUT ...

Many years ago, I purchased one of their early units for use in Columbia, SC (Earlier tagline: "Famously Hot!).

I found that in all the SC heat and humidity, I could see 15 degree temperature drop between input and exit air when the OAT was near 100.

It did not cool the area much but if you were near the airflow, it made a difference.

I suspect that you will have better results than most expect.
 
My .02: start work at 0-dark-30.
Any solution will work better when it’s not as hot… and it’s a nice way to start the day.
 
Funny I was thinking the exact thing esco was. I have worked the midnight shift for years. Much cooler and quieter time to work and no extra $$ spent on cooling equipment. Its only temporary :)
 
So what is the cut off point for an effective swamp cooler?
Most common advice I’ve heard is 50%. I’ve lived in both extremes (East Texas and SW California Desert), and I can attest that evaporative (swamp) coolers work amazingly well in the dry desert. And hardly at all in humid Climates.

Wherever you try it, one critical issue is exhaust air. Insufficient air flow will lead to an increase in humidity - which kills any temperature drop. Exhaust up high helps to blow off any heat. On those days where I elect to run an evaporative cooler in my house, I open the attic access and blow the air out through the attic, which further helps cool the dwelling.

if it were me, and I were in the SE US, I think that some type of air conditioning/humidity removal is critical. I would not waste time/money on a swamp cooler. If you own the hanger, then your options are easy. Insulate, seal, and air condition.

If you rent like many, then your options are limited. I would seal off as much as possible of the lower hanger area. Your goal is to hold a “pool” of cooler, dryer air at your level. Then I would use a dual-tube portable AC unit to blow cold air directly at the area I am working, with the side effect of some overall cooling of the general workspace.

It is important to understand the difference in portable AC types. Most portable AC’s only have a single tube which exhausts the hot air off the condenser to the outside. Unfortunately, the air they pull IN to cool the condenser comes from within the air conditioned space - creating a negative pressure in the building - aka hanger. These are very inefficient in that the negative pressure in the space pulls in hot humid air via any available opening from outside.

A dual tube portable AC pulls in exterior air to cool the condenser coil via one tube, and exhausts the resulting hot air on the other side of the coil to the outside via the second tube. This does not create a negative pressure, and thus limits exterior air intrusion.
 
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I'm in Florida. For the past 15 months I've been helping a friend build an airplane. Last summer we used a large portable type AC with the air exhaust connected to a vent in the hangar door (meaning the door had to stay closed when the AC was running) and ducts aimed at the work area. Not as effective as hoped: anywhere outside the small area cooled by the ducts was sweltering - and we all know aircraft building is not typically confined to a small area. I figured out after a few weeks of this that it was better to just open the hangar doors fully and get air moving in the entire hangar. The hangar door itself was part of the problem: south-facing, a giant heat collector. This year, just open the door, run some fans to keep air moving, aim a fan at the general work area. It's way better. Last year I tried to focus on an early start - 5 or 5:30 AM. This year, get there around 8 and it's manageable until noon - 1 PM or so, and some days even later if the afternoon storms arrive early. Stay hydrated....
 
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I live in the desert west and can confirm that evap coolers work quite well here in the dry air. Shown below is some definitive information from a manufacturer of evaporative coolers that might answer the question of at what humidity point do they become ineffective.

Best climate for evaporative cooling in the US


Where does evaporative cooling works best?

Evaporative cooling is most effective in dry areas of the US where the climate is hot, and humidity is low during summer. This includes the California, Nevada, New Mexico, Colorado, Utah, Arizona, Washington, Oregon, Idaho, Montana, Wyoming, and specific regions in North Dakota, South Dakota, Nebraska, and El Paso, Texas

Evaporative cooling may also work well in areas that have a combination of a cool and dry climate, and where the coincidental wet-bulb temperatures are as high as 74°F but high humidity becomes a problem no higher than the low 70's.

The illustrative map below provides an overview of the different climate zones for the states where evaporative cooling is more effective.
USA-Evaporative-Cooling-Map.jpg
 
So no options for me to go buy something today and expect it to knock 20 degrees off the top? Seems like the portable AC units just don't work well enough in non-insulated environments to be worth it?
Prior to insulating my garage my DeLonghi Pinguino portable AC would make my garage useable till about 11am, with the use of fans, but after that you would roast in a far west suburb of Houston.
 
In Baton Rouge I had a fully insulated and central AC hangar. Didn't cost much to cool, and it was straight awesome. But I think that you could do pretty well with a framed AC and some plastic. Think of a 8 foot high x 4 wide 2x4 frame on two 2x6 footers on wheels. Frame a window unit into it. If you ran plastic on the frame that you could pull over a work area, maybe even a second similar frame 10' away, it would cool really well and be run only when you are there working. Or maybe something like this that has some cross-pieces fabbed to put across the top, and the white vertical strips like a commercial freezer has. Move the right frame over with the AC, move the left frame over, drop the cross pieces, hang the plastic - voila, portable AC room. Put the AC on a remote switch, either 4G or wifi depending, and you just run it when you need it. Make it wider as you want; think Bob Ross - it's your AC wall, build it how you want.

The larger units with the 4 and 6" ducting are okay, but you are in the same space as the exhausted heat so it isn't much bang for the buck
 
What are you guys using to cool your hangers? It's 104 degrees here today.

Not expecting 65 degrees but perhaps there's a way to drop it 20-30 degrees?

I'm looking at portable ACs, but out of my area of expertise or experience.

Advice appreciated and welcome! :)
I have a Porta Cool. Bought it at Bumper to Bumper Auto Parts about 3 years ago and paid $3,500. I use it in my shop and hangar and it works good to cool the space you are working in. I think mine has the 36" fan and puts out 13,225 CFM. I think you can buy it at Northern Tool in the store for around $3,800 now. It does use a lot of water about 30-50 gallons every 6-8 hours of run time. I have a 55 gallon plastic drum I use at my hangar to fill it. I bought a cheap electric pump that a garden hose attaches to and transfer it from the drum to the fan. That will run it for a day.
 
I think they will be at AirVenture.

 
This little guy followed me around and did a decent job of making the heat tolerable. Notice past tense. He passed away this week and I miss him dearly. Guess I worked him too hard lately.

It’s an inexpensive room air conditioner which I exhausted the hot air out the door. I used the condensate for watering plants.
 

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