Does anyone know if there is a balancing procedure for the control surfaces on an RV8 after painting?
Thanks
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Balancing procedures for control surfaces for an RV8
- Thread starter FireMedic_2009
- Start date
According to a prominent paint shop in Alabama, there is no known procedure by Vans for balancing the elevator.
The same procedure Vans prescribed to balance them the first time only do it again.
There’s no pre-paint post-paint procedure. Just a balance procedure.
There’s a recent RV crash involving unbalanced surfaces directly after leaving the paint shop.
The paint shop most likely aren’t A&P’s. If they are and they tell you that it doesn’t need to be checked for balance then they got their A&P from a Cracker Jack box. YMMV
Section 13 Paint, Section 5 General
“Control surface balance on the RVs has not been found to be critical. A normal (light) paint application on the ailerons and elevator will not upset their balance to a noticeable degree. However, a heavy paint job will require that these surfaces be re-balanced and additional counter balance weight added if necessary.”
Paint shop guy is definitely misleading. You might check them and require no action. Doesn’t mean there’s no procedure.
Section 6
“It is impossible to make the elevator balance exactly until is finished. The best approach is probably to leave the counterweights a little heavy, then drill the inboard side of the counterweight with a series of small holes until the elevator balances. A correctly balanced elevator will remain "in trail".”
Your elevator was “finished” and then balanced per the quote above…until you painted it then you changed it with paint and it needs to be “finished” again.
Don’t take the “not critical” lightly. Check it!
There’s no pre-paint post-paint procedure. Just a balance procedure.
There’s a recent RV crash involving unbalanced surfaces directly after leaving the paint shop.
The paint shop most likely aren’t A&P’s. If they are and they tell you that it doesn’t need to be checked for balance then they got their A&P from a Cracker Jack box. YMMV
Section 13 Paint, Section 5 General
“Control surface balance on the RVs has not been found to be critical. A normal (light) paint application on the ailerons and elevator will not upset their balance to a noticeable degree. However, a heavy paint job will require that these surfaces be re-balanced and additional counter balance weight added if necessary.”
Paint shop guy is definitely misleading. You might check them and require no action. Doesn’t mean there’s no procedure.
Section 6
“It is impossible to make the elevator balance exactly until is finished. The best approach is probably to leave the counterweights a little heavy, then drill the inboard side of the counterweight with a series of small holes until the elevator balances. A correctly balanced elevator will remain "in trail".”
Your elevator was “finished” and then balanced per the quote above…until you painted it then you changed it with paint and it needs to be “finished” again.
Don’t take the “not critical” lightly. Check it!
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See above. I'll only add this...the conservative approach is to remove the bolt tying the elevator horns to the elevator pushrod, and balance the left and right surfaces separately, after painting of course. The left side may need a bit of additional weight because of the trim servo.
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SuperCubDriver
Well Known Member
I riveted a nutplate for AN4 bolts at the location on Dan´s extra weight. That way I can adjust the additional weight with large area washers and the correct bolt. The bolt must not come loose however as this could jam the elevator. So Dan´s solution shines - as usual!
You can balance before paint . . . . According to my findings, the blue wrap is just about the same area density as paint. I balanced my 7 with blue wrap on, then removed it and added a removable weight. The paint shop removed that weight before painting. The recheck of balance was as near perfect as could be measured by Dans approach here. As always, YMMV.
Attachment of lead with bolts is a poor joint due to the butter like strength of lead. If one takes the lead and tests fastener torque, you can watch the head disappear before spect torque is reached. A load spreader is required, and I have been using pro seal or epoxy to bond the lead for permanence.
Attachment of lead with bolts is a poor joint due to the butter like strength of lead. If one takes the lead and tests fastener torque, you can watch the head disappear before spect torque is reached. A load spreader is required, and I have been using pro seal or epoxy to bond the lead for permanence.
