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Aircraft weighing

gkalin

Member
Getting ready to weigh our new 14. Couple questions: since this is EAB, can I use a set of postal scales…..Amazon sells some for $60 or so. Or do I need to round up something “certified”, assuming there is such. What do paint shops use? Also, understand it needs to be in flight attitude with no fuel, but what about smoke oil? Have a smoke systems helper setup with the tank directly behind the left seat. About 4 1/2 gallons. Weigh it empty, half full, full?
Jerry
 
A lot of us have used the inexpensive scales. They seem to be accurate. I had the occasion to weigh mine with one amazon scale with spacers of the same height as the scale on the other wheels and also with a dedicated set of aircraft scales a DAR had. They agreed within three pounds. Matt had a cool trick that requires only two scales in the second link.




 
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For what its worth, I have used the 600 lb postal scales you get on Amazon for quite a few aircraft. I always check their calibration with known weights, and against each other before a weighing, and they are really pretty accurate and repeatable. One thing to remember - I found this out on my Rocket - they are rated for 600 lbs, and that’s fine for most RV’s. The Rocket has enough mass ahead of the wheels that you can;t jack both wings up and then slide the scales underneath, or it will fall on its nose - you have to jack up one wing at a time and then set the whel down on the scale. Well that is fine for the first one. tehn you go to the other side and jack it up and guess what (everyone see sthis coming….). You put a huge amount of extra weight on the first scale! I bent the heck out of it…and it STILL tested accurate after the weighing. just looks a little funny now….

Smoke oil? Personally I’d drain it - the only fluid I leave in for weighing is engine oil, and I specify how much was in the sump when I do so.
 
Getting ready to weigh our new 14. Couple questions: since this is EAB, can I use a set of postal scales…..Amazon sells some for $60 or so. Or do I need to round up something “certified”, assuming there is such. What do paint shops use? Also, understand it needs to be in flight attitude with no fuel, but what about smoke oil? Have a smoke systems helper setup with the tank directly behind the left seat. About 4 1/2 gallons. Weigh it empty, half full, full?
Jerry
Remove the smoke oil and any fuel in the tanks, leave the oil in the engine. Make sure you weigh the plane in a closed hangar. The slightest air movement will cause inaccurate weighing. If you make small ramps it will make it easy to push the plane on to the scales, just make sure that you have a chock on the scale to stop the planes motion. No use learning a new language if it rolls off and you have to start again.
 
Remove the smoke oil and any fuel in the tanks, leave the oil in the engine. Make sure you weigh the plane in a closed hangar. The slightest air movement will cause inaccurate weighing. If you make small ramps it will make it easy to push the plane on to the scales, just make sure that you have a chock on the scale to stop the planes motion. No use learning a new language if it rolls off and you have to start again.
Don't forget to subtract the weight of the chocks, at each location. :)
The FAA defines BEW to include "unusable" fuel and engine oil, no other fluids (de-ice, smoke, etc.).
To be honest, I weighed mine with full fuel, then calculated and subtracted the weight and moment of the fuel.
 
I used the 600lb Amazonian postal scales and a friend's set of expensive racing scales. The two were within a pound of each other. I'm sure others have better tips, but just in case, here's $.02 worth.

One tip I learned the hard way.
Do not lift and lower the airplane on the scales. There's probably a trick to it, but what happens is the gear imposes a side load and results in an inaccurate result. 30 lbs on mine. Unfortunately it gained the 30 lbs when weighed properly!

To be accurate, you need to roll on the scales. So determine how much shim you need to level both ways. Place that on the scales. You probably need some sort of ramp to roll up and on to the scales. You may need to winch the airplane up the ramps.

Another tip
Cut six 12" squares of 4 mil plastic. Grease them lightly then stick the pairs together. Place a set between shims. If there's any side load, the slip pads allow a little movement.
 
I used the 600lb Amazonian postal scales and a friend's set of expensive racing scales. The two were within a pound of each other. I'm sure others have better tips, but just in case, here's $.02 worth.

One tip I learned the hard way.
Do not lift and lower the airplane on the scales. There's probably a trick to it, but what happens is the gear imposes a side load and results in an inaccurate result. 30 lbs on mine. Unfortunately it gained the 30 lbs when weighed properly!

To be accurate, you need to roll on the scales. So determine how much shim you need to level both ways. Place that on the scales. You probably need some sort of ramp to roll up and on to the scales. You may need to winch the airplane up the ramps.

Another tip
Cut six 12" squares of 4 mil plastic. Grease them lightly then stick the pairs together. Place a set between shims. If there's any side load, the slip pads allow a little movement.
I "shimmed" to level just by leaving air out of the high tires.
 
I used the 600lb Amazonian postal scales and a friend's set of expensive racing scales. The two were within a pound of each other. I'm sure others have better tips, but just in case, here's $.02 worth.

One tip I learned the hard way.
Do not lift and lower the airplane on the scales. There's probably a trick to it, but what happens is the gear imposes a side load and results in an inaccurate result. 30 lbs on mine. Unfortunately it gained the 30 lbs when weighed properly!

To be accurate, you need to roll on the scales. So determine how much shim you need to level both ways. Place that on the scales. You probably need some sort of ramp to roll up and on to the scales. You may need to winch the airplane up the ramps.

Another tip
Cut six 12" squares of 4 mil plastic. Grease them lightly then stick the pairs together. Place a set between shims. If there's any side load, the slip pads allow a little movement.
When I lift the plane on to the scales, I use greased nylon sheets (gift from a friend - a set that I used to set wheel alignment…) to make sure I don’t put any side loads on the scales. You do sort of have to guess where things are going to end up when you do it that way, but its not hard.
 
I "shimmed" to level just by leaving air out of the high tires.
Yes. I forgot that tip. It's a great method to adjust level a little. On mine the mains were much higher and even a flat tire wouldn't level it.

A note to Beringer folks though. If a Beringer tire gets too low, it looses the seal on the bead and will go completely flat. Beringer wheels/tires are not like a car tire. The bead is much smaller and the tire doesn't snap over a bead. The pressure holds the tire sealed to the bead on rim. Airing it back up may not be possible with the airplane weight on the ground.
Tube tires would also be advised not to lower the pressure so far the tube gets pinched.
Thanks
 
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Yes. I forgot that tip. It's a great method to adjust level a little. On mine the mains were much higher and even a flat tire wouldn't level it.

A note to Beringer folks though. If a Beringer tire gets too low, it looses the seal on the bead and will go completely flat. Beringer wheels/tires are not like a car tire. The bead is much smaller and the tire doesn't snap over a bead. The pressure holds the tire sealed to the bead on rim. Airing it back up may not be possible with the airplane weight on the ground.
Tube tires would also be advised not to lower the pressure so far the tube gets pinched.
Thanks
 
Yes. I forgot that tip. It's a great method to adjust level a little. On mine the mains were much higher and even a flat tire wouldn't level it.

A note to Beringer folks though. If a Beringer tire gets too low, it looses the seal on the bead and will go completely flat. Beringer wheels/tires are not like a car tire. The bead is much smaller and the tire doesn't snap over a bead. The pressure holds the tire sealed to the bead on rim. Airing it back up may not be possible with the airplane weight on the ground.
Tube tires would also be advised not to lower the pressure so far the tube gets pinched.
Thanks
Beringer recommends 4 atmospheres for Michelin tires they use. I go slightly higher as it’s easier to remember. (60 psi) at 40 psi I refill using N2. Only do it once a year. Really nice wheels and brakes ! Never had a shake or wiggle.
 
Beringer recommends 4 atmospheres for Michelin tires they use. I go slightly higher as it’s easier to remember. (60 psi) at 40 psi I refill using N2. Only do it once a year. Really nice wheels and brakes ! Never had a shake or wiggle.
Exactly. It's more than most are used to inflating. The tire/bead sealing dependent on the pressure. If allowed to drop, the tire instantly goes flat.
 
The FAA defines BEW to include "unusable" fuel and engine oil, no other fluids (de-ice, smoke, etc.).
Lots of different definitions of weight out there. I don’t recall what FAA defines but I would weigh with the unusable fuel and engine oil as Bob says. In my old day job that was called “operating weight empty” (OWE which is BEW + required fluids) and my opinion best as you can’t fly without those fluids. Again not looking up FAA guidance, I would use the 8 quarts of oil even though you can fly with a lot less. Just make sure you document the exact configuration of what you weigh so you know where to add/subtract from for each flight.
Another area of confusion is what is in basic empty weight. I do not include removeable accessories, like headphones, iPad, ADS-B in reciever, tools, etc but have them as a separate item in the weight and balance sheet under payload.
 
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For what its worth, I have used the 600 lb postal scales you get on Amazon for quite a few aircraft. I always check their calibration with known weights, and against each other before a weighing, and they are really pretty accurate and repeatable. One thing to remember - I found this out on my Rocket - they are rated for 600 lbs, and that’s fine for most RV’s. The Rocket has enough mass ahead of the wheels that you can;t jack both wings up and then slide the scales underneath, or it will fall on its nose - you have to jack up one wing at a time and then set the whel down on the scale. Well that is fine for the first one. tehn you go to the other side and jack it up and guess what (everyone see sthis coming….). You put a huge amount of extra weight on the first scale! I bent the heck out of it…and it STILL tested accurate after the weighing. just looks a little funny now….

Smoke oil? Personally I’d drain it - the only fluid I leave in for weighing is engine oil, and I specify how much was in the sump when I do so.
I did the same but was hesitant to jack one wing at a time. So I made some simple lightweight ramps using 1/4” ply laminated at various lengths. Ramp length is 4’ overall and I can easily roll most RVs (tailwheel) onto the scales by myself. Works great and is less exciting.
 
I did A&P stuff for 25+ years at a number of places. I would get very amused when prepping a mainline commercial jet for Weight & Balance. Of course every time was a little bit different depending on the aircraft and the airline. But each time there was a checklist that had to be in place or removed prior to weighing. We would have a couple big boxes of stuff removed and retained for replacement. Some things you can understand like the monthly airline magazine conveniently located in the seat pocket in front of you. Some things would make you scratch your head

For example the Aircraft safety card —is a legally required document placed in the seat pocket of every passenger: nope take every one off the aircraft!
All the essential WTF do I do in an emergency QRF books in the cockpit. Nope take them off the aircraft,
All the bathroom Toilet Paper and paper towels and Everything not bolted down in the galley: take it off!
You’d think that the Biscoff Cookies in the last overhead bin would have to go, but no, they are FAA required in case of extended ground delay, so they stay.
We used to joke that you could make a game show out of it, where contestants would have to guess which items are required to remain and which ones had to be removed.

At one place I worked at. After they finished the W&B checklist and the inspector signed off on the list they would place a full unopened case of B 1/2 polysulfide sealant at the center of the aircraft before final weight. After it was weighed, the SOP was to roll it outside and gang bang all the wing and body panels that had been removed with masking tape, popsicle sticks, and sealant before delivery.
 
One tip I learned the hard way.
Do not lift and lower the airplane on the scales. There's probably a trick to it, but what happens is the gear imposes a side load and results in an inaccurate result. 30 lbs on mine. Unfortunately it gained the 30 lbs when weighed properly!

When I lift the plane on to the scales, I use greased nylon sheets (gift from a friend - a set that I used to set wheel alignment…) to make sure I don’t put any side loads on the scales. You do sort of have to guess where things are going to end up when you do it that way, but its not hard.
I'm really curious to try scales on top of roller dollys to eliminate side load, as jacking the plane is much more convenient for the amount of lift I need to achieve to level the longerons.
 
Another tip
Cut six 12" squares of 4 mil plastic. Grease them lightly then stick the pairs together. Place a set between shims. If there's any side load, the slip pads allow a little movement.
I did that and works well if carefull. i have them laying around from car/truck alignments i do at home.

A big caution here though. When you put one wheel on these and then lift the other side, it is very easy for the wheel to slip off the scale, then have the jack tip over. requires very little force.
 
I chuckle when folks ask how long it takes to do a W&B.
20 seconds.
It’s the 30 minute prep time that gets you.
Set up the ramps & platforms to elevate the plane same height as scales. Prepower & check calibration of scales.
Prep aircraft, drain fluids, remove excess items, make sure all panels & required items are in place. CLOSE CANOPY.
Push or winch aircraft up on ramps.
Ready- roll plane forward onto scales, get readings.
Roll back- 20 seconds.
Enter values onto spreadsheet to calculate weight & CofG.
Done
 
Getting ready to weigh our new 14. Couple questions: since this is EAB, can I use a set of postal scales…..Amazon sells some for $60 or so. Or do I need to round up something “certified”, assuming there is such. What do paint shops use? Also, understand it needs to be in flight attitude with no fuel, but what about smoke oil? Have a smoke systems helper setup with the tank directly behind the left seat. About 4 1/2 gallons. Weigh it empty, half full, full?
Jerry
Yes. If tail dragger you only need two.
I believe I used the same scales you are referring to.
Getting ready to weigh our new 14. Couple questions: since this is EAB, can I use a set of postal scales…..Amazon sells some for $60 or so. Or do I need to round up something “certified”, assuming there is such. What do paint shops use? Also, understand it needs to be in flight attitude with no fuel, but what about smoke oil? Have a smoke systems helper setup with the tank directly behind the left seat. About 4 1/2 gallons. Weigh it empty, half full, full?
Jerry
if the smoke tank is will be removed from time to time, weigh with it out. If permanent, weigh with it empty. This is variable and should be calculated for each flight. Like fuel.
 
Yes. If tail dragger you only need two.
I believe I used the same scales you are referring to.

if the smoke tank is will be removed from time to time, weigh with it out. If permanent, weigh with it empty. This is variable and should be calculated for each flight. Like fuel.
IMO you need 3 scales to do WB accurately. I also will only do it with empty fuel.
 
IMO you need 3 scales to do WB accurately. I also will only do it with empty fuel.
Don't want to get too in the weeds and derail the conversation, but I'd like to hear your argument for why it needs to be empty. I've only tried full, with a subtraction for calculated fuel weight. My assumption is that variance in fuel density by temp is negligible, or could also be calculated.


I just don't have enough containers, patience, or fire risk tolerance to drain a typical 20+ gallons of avgas...
 
Don't want to get too in the weeds and derail the conversation, but I'd like to hear your argument for why it needs to be empty. I've only tried full, with a subtraction for calculated fuel weight. My assumption is that variance in fuel density by temp is negligible, or could also be calculated.


I just don't have enough containers, patience, or fire risk tolerance to drain a typical 20+ gallons of avgas...
Weighing with full fuel is valid if you know the fuel weight and the arm of the fuel. Fuel weight is dependent on the fuel density (as delivered from the refinery) and the temperature. Regular large aircraft weighing kits often include fuel densiometers to determine the actual fuel weight per gallon. On these aircraft a small error in fuel weight per gallon doesn’t is multiplied by thousands of gallons it can make a significant difference.
If you think fuel weight per gallon doesn’t vary much, it can. The standard for 100LL is 5.96 to 6.29 lbs per gallon at 15 deg C. For 38 gal of fuel that could be 12.54 pound variation. Add in temp effects and the variation can increase.
For our small capacity tanks, not a real big deal, but it can be an inaccuracy, when coupled with a questionable arm for fuel could have an impact.

Weighing empty removes these variables and gives a more accurate result.
 
Dan pretty well nailed it, I’ll also add that what exactly is “full”, overflowing, or some variation below the filler? So if you’re off a gallon per side that’s approximately 12 lbs.. I also think the CG location of fuel is not exactly the same full vs empty but more of an average.
Bottom line is better accuracy with 0 fuel.
 
Regular large aircraft weighing kits often include fuel densiometers
I think this device should be simple if not widely available. Might look for one.
I also think the CG location of fuel is not exactly the same full vs empty but more of an average.
Bottom line is better accuracy with 0 fuel.
This is a good point but I also think it varies more with in flight pitch attitude (just based on fuel float variability at different speed/attitude when nearing empty). I wonder if Vans used a margin of safety in their station to account for slosh.
 
Dan pretty well nailed it, I’ll also add that what exactly is “full”, overflowing, or some variation below the filler? So if you’re off a gallon per side that’s approximately 12 lbs.. I also think the CG location of fuel is not exactly the same full vs empty but more of an average.
Bottom line is better accuracy with 0 fuel.
I'm not sure I agree with this analysis for weight. All the things you mentioned (uncertainty of how full is full, etc) apply equally well to to the gross weight of an aircraft with a BEW measured empty (well, actually with unusable fuel on board, another issue). In the end the actual weight is just as uncertain either way.If you measure the weight with full tanks, at least there's no question of the total weight (usable and unusable) of fuel onboard.
The CG question is imho interesting, as the RVs extend the tank into the leading edge of the wing, it must be that, starting from empty, as you add gas, the CG of the tank moves forward, as the gas moves into the leading edge. But once the fuel level is up to the height of the leading edge, the CG starts moving aft. The wing dihedral makes this even more complicated.
 
On a -8 anyway the tanks are so close to the empty CG the weight of the fuel hardly makes any difference. The calculated CG on mine empty vs full changes from 79.5 to 79.6 inches
 
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On a -8 anyway the tanks are so close to the empty CG the weight of the fuel hardly makes any difference. The calculated CG on mine empty vs full changes from 79.5 to 79.6 inches
Yes but empty CG can and does vary based on many factors so that doesn’t hold true for all 8’s.
Determining an accurate empty CG is the whole point of weighing the aircraft.
 
Just to head further down the rabbit hole, is the “unusable” fuel determined by what can’t be “drained” using the wing drains or what can’t be “pumped” using the fuel pump? I used what could not be pumped, as we did in my day job, but wonder how many use drained and how big a difference that makes.
I spent a lot of time working with weight engineers and they love to get into this type of discussion. 🤔
 
Just to head further down the rabbit hole, is the “unusable” fuel determined by what can’t be “drained” using the wing drains or what can’t be “pumped” using the fuel pump? I used what could not be pumped, as we did in my day job, but wonder how many use drained and how big a difference that makes.
I spent a lot of time working with weight engineers and they love to get into this type of discussion. 🤔
I thought it was "what can't be pumped". Drain the remaining to measure it. EAA Test cards detail the process quite well. Mine was 2oz.
 
Yes but empty CG can and does vary based on many factors so that doesn’t hold true for all 8’s.
Determining an accurate empty CG is the whole point of weighing the aircraft.
Still... Even if the empty CG moved through a 2“ range across multiple aircraft, the CG of the fuel is so close to it that a small variation in volume would have no practical effect on accuracy. We're talking about CG's in tenths of an inch here, when none of us are making any real world change if it's 76.5 or 76.6 inches. Do what you can to minimize error, yes, but don't incur unnecessary risk by draining and then hoisting and pouring up to 20gal per side. If the owner fills the tanks, at least the "full" point is likely to remain relatively consistent while that owner has the plane.

Sometimes we spend an inordinate amount of time trying to perfect something that really doesn't need it.
 
Exactly
You will get a way larger change in CG by running the engine one quart low on oil than any reasonable error in the fuel level estimate.
 
Sometimes we spend an inordinate amount of time trying to perfect something that really doesn't need it.
Agree completely
But making the decision to do it differently should be informed by how to do it by the accepted procedures and what the potential delta could be for doing it differently.
 
The best way to understand it is to do some numerical examples. To change the balance you need a change in moment which is the arm times the weight. Because of the long arm a 1 pound error in the tail wheel weight makes a 0.2” CG error on mine which dwarfs any error in the fuel tanks.
 
I fell into the thread drift. The OP never mentioned fuel tanks. No question doing it with empty tanks is “right”. My point is doing it “wrong” doesn’t make much difference. I had occasion to redo my W&B after I added an inverted oil system and did it with gas in the tanks. It agreed with my estimate to within 5 pounds which is good enough for me.
 
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Guess I'm a bit more anal than most, "close enough" is not my style, if you're gonna do a job might as well do it right.
We'll, I hope you drained the oil, too. Or filled it with a graduated eyedropper. Was your brake fluid reservoir full, or down .5“? And you and your passenger stand on a scale before every flight, right?

The point is that there are reasonable efforts to make to support accuracy. There are also unreasonable ones, that do not contribute to any practical accuracy.
 
We'll, I hope you drained the oil, too. Or filled it with a graduated eyedropper. Was your brake fluid reservoir full, or down .5“? And you and your passenger stand on a scale before every flight, right?

The point is that there are reasonable efforts to make to support accuracy. There are also unreasonable ones, that do not contribute to any practical accuracy.
You need to tell Van's to revise their procedure then because it doesn't really matter.
You can certainly do it any way you want, but being sarcastic with me because I prefer to follow standard practice is not necessary.

DETERMINING EMPTY CG
Level the aircraft longitudinally and laterally using the longerons in the cabin area as the level reference. Weigh the airplane
with the canopy closed, full oil and the fuel tanks empty. Enter the weights and distances from the datum (arm) in the chart
below. Multiply weight by arm to obtain moment. Divide the total moment by the weight to determine the empty CG.
 
Yes. I forgot that tip. It's a great method to adjust level a little. On mine the mains were much higher and even a flat tire wouldn't level it.

A note to Beringer folks though. If a Beringer tire gets too low, it looses the seal on the bead and will go completely flat. Beringer wheels/tires are not like a car tire. The bead is much smaller and the tire doesn't snap over a bead. The pressure holds the tire sealed to the bead on rim. Airing it back up may not be possible with the airplane weight on the ground.
Tube tires would also be advised not to lower the pressure so far the tube gets pinched.
Thanks
Just add helium to the low side?
 
You need to tell Van's to revise their procedure then because it doesn't really matter.
You can certainly do it any way you want, but being sarcastic with me because I prefer to follow standard practice is not necessary.

DETERMINING EMPTY CG
Level the aircraft longitudinally and laterally using the longerons in the cabin area as the level reference. Weigh the airplane
with the canopy closed, full oil and the fuel tanks empty. Enter the weights and distances from the datum (arm) in the chart
below. Multiply weight by arm to obtain moment. Divide the total moment by the weight to determine the empty CG.
Using Walt’s process (per Van’s reference) keeps BEW data valid for all RV- owners looking at that model RV.

Making your own procedure either more anal or more lackadaisical skews the baseline data points.
I also make a BOW after adding my fire extinguisher, headsets, mountain survival gear and other travel items to give a valid TOW when loaded.
 
Using Walt’s process (per Van’s reference) keeps BEW data valid for all RV- owners looking at that model RV.

Making your own procedure either more anal or more lackadaisical skews the baseline data points.
I also make a BOW after adding my fire extinguisher, headsets, mountain survival gear and other travel items to give a valid TOW when loaded.
That's how I did it, but to expand on Walt's method, the builder really should measure the arms and validate the distances. They can be different. I doubt it would fall out of the sky, but as long as we are being precise, one might as well go all in.
 
I agree with doing validation and can go a step further. At my lrsm class at Rainbow we did a w&b with and without a person to check the passenger arm, that was very insightful, ie it was not where we thought and I can totally see how a different seat configuration or style could be different from the prototype arm. Can do the same with and without fuel and baggage and whatever other arm you want to check and verify not just measurements, but arms (have to know the weight of the arm item to check and then do a little math to solve for the arm, so can’t do it for something the weight is unknown). The fun of building our own planes!
 
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