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Adding brass elbow fittings.

Steve Crewdog

Well Known Member
Patron
Adding brass elbow fittings to Facet 40135 pump,

Hi all,

Got a Facet 40135 pump, it would fit better if I used a 90 elbow into the pump. But since there are at least 359 degrees of fit that would be the wrong direction, how far down can you tighten a brass 1/8 NPT->1/4" barbed fitting down?

Or, how about a banjo fitting like this? https://tameson.com/products/f293h-...barb-with-male-threads-nbr-rotatable-2-pieces


Thanks
 
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YES!

The NPT are always a cr** shoot. CAT used NPT fittings for cooling and fuel (industrial, marine, and generators) in late 70's and systematically replaced all of them with time to designs with fewer leak issues. 80-100k engines per year.

YES- I would investigate the face seal o-ring one you linked. It may have issues, but is certainly worth the effort to see if it has any undesirable characteristics.
 
I’m sure the banjo fitting flows fuel really well… perhaps TS flightlines can chime in?
 
Isn't that a straight thread fitting on that part, though? And the pump takes tapered thread?
 
I assume you are using a push lock rubber hose. A regulare brass 90* barbed fitting would probably be better than the 1 piece banjo. There is an Oring'ed stem in the body of the banjo to allow it to rotate. Eventually, it will leak. (Similar to make NPT swivels on pressure washer hoses).

IMO---for what it worth, IF you are going to use a rubber push lock hose, make on the pump with a Sharpie where you want the barb to orient, seal the NPT threads with Locktite 567, then snug the fitting, check the orientation then tighten TIGHT until the needed location is reached. Like Bill said, installing aggled NPT fittings is a cr**p shoot----but the way Ive described makes it easier.

Tom
 
It looks like the fuel pump is NPT and the banjo fitting is not NPT?? If this is true they are not compatible.
 
I assume you are using a push lock rubber hose. A regulare brass 90* barbed fitting would probably be better than the 1 piece banjo. There is an Oring'ed stem in the body of the banjo to allow it to rotate. Eventually, it will leak. (Similar to make NPT swivels on pressure washer hoses).

IMO---for what it worth, IF you are going to use a rubber push lock hose, make on the pump with a Sharpie where you want the barb to orient, seal the NPT threads with Locktite 567, then snug the fitting, check the orientation then tighten TIGHT until the needed location is reached. Like Bill said, installing aggled NPT fittings is a cr**p shoot----but the way Ive described makes it easier.

Tom

Hi Tom,

Thanks for taking the time to reply. Yes, I am using rubber fuel hose, his is just from a sump to the pump, and will be in the shutoff position for normal operations. I was wondering how tight I could snug it down, don't want to strip the pump fittings FAFO.


Andair makes a banjo fitting for the 375 gascolator, I've installed it hopefully theirs won't leak. https://www.andair.co.uk/product/adjustable-hose-fitting-3-8-rubber-tube/
 
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The issue is you say you have a 1/8 NPT Female port in the pump.
The Tameson 'banjo' is BSPP thread and not the same. The Andair is 1/4 NPT. Nevertheless---NPT threads need sealer, so the correct answer to how tight, is tight enough to not leak or move, and if you have an angled fitting, have it oriented correctly. LOL---I'm probably the last person to ask about torqueing fittings. I tend to make sure they dont leak :eek:

Tom
 
https://www.engineersedge.com/hardware/pipe_thread_installation_13424.htm

1/8" npt needs roughly 7 inch-lbs or 2-3 turns past finger tight. If the fitting isnt facing the correct direction, the correct thing to do is use a tap to deepen the female threads by the correct amount and reinstall the fitting.

If you have any extra length available, consider installing a 1/8npt to -4 male AN straight fitting, then using a 90 degree pushloc AN fitting in the hose. This will let you set the angle on an AN connection instead of an NPT connection and solve your issue without the use of orings.

Also, the pump threads won't strip by overtightening. You'll crack the housing around the threads. So if the pump has a beefy wall thickness around the threaded area, you can get away with a little extra torque. If the wall thickness was kept to a minimum, over tightening is a larger concern.
 
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