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Sky-Tec 149-12XLT Solenoid "Click" E-mail from Hartzell

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E-mail exchange with Tim at Sky-Tec Hartzell

To: Sky-tec (Hartzell)

We have the Sky-Tec 149-12XLT in our RV-14a with the IO390 motor. After 150 hours of operation, we got the "Click" no start. After pulling and cleaning the solenoid we went an additional 50 hours before the next "Click" no start (@200 hours). Do we have a bad Solenoid or Is this typical behavior? Other RV14a owners have had similar problems. Looking for a long term fix. I do like this starter from a weight standpoint (6.5 pounds).
We have a earthX battery and have 13.2 VDC measured at the the Solenoid.

Thanks for your help.
Jeff

From Sky-tec (Hartzell)
October 2025
Hi Jeff,
We have found the external solenoids used on all the legacy Sky-Tec series starters not to be as robust as we would like. To that end, we sourced and are currently using a different solenoid vendor that seems to have reduced solenoids issues. These later solenoids are available on current production starters but are not available for retrofit in the field. Starter replacement would be recommended using your current unit to fulfill the core requirements.

Regards,
Tim
Timothy Gauntt

To: Sky-tec (Hartzell)
Thanks for the info Tim,
With regards to the Sky-Tec 149-12XLT starter:
The newly Sourced solenoids that are “available on current production starters”, do the starters have the identical part numbers?
Is there a differentiator, between the Old and the New?
I do understand that the new Solenoids are not backwards compatible.
Thanks, Jeff



From Sky-tec (Hartzell)
Hi Jeff,
Not really as this was a running production change.
Regards,
Tim

My Thoughts:
Appears Hartzell has sourced a new solenoid for the Sky-Tec 149-12XLT, beginning late in 2025. Although this new solenoid is not backwards compatible (Allegedly), It did not trigger a part number change, making discussions about legacy vs New, Difficult.

Our original legacy solenoid slowly developed small groves that the actuator hangs up on (click). Developed a procedure to get the solenoid partially engaged to give us a one time start, allowing us to fly home. We replaced, and now fly with a spare Napa Part #: ECH ST421starter solenoid, for our legacy Sky-Tec 149-12XLT starter.
 
I asked to buy just the solenoid as I had an issue with mine in April 2025. They told me that they don't sell just the solenoid because they do not have SOP's for field changing them. My guess is that they are backward compatible.
 
politically correct words cannot be found to comment on this practice. We sold you a starter with a crappy solenoid and have finally gotten around to finding a better source, so that we frustrate fewer customers. However, we refuse to sell it to you, as that would prevent you from buying a new one and that would impact our revenue. Sadly, we don’t care about you, just getting your money. What a great compony. So sad there are no other competitors in this field.

And what is that sop BS? We are not capable of removing two screws and properly reconnecting the arm?

I used to like hartzel; not so much anymore.
 
I had the sticking solenoid issue last April. This appeared to be caused by heat build up under the cowling after landing. On a couple of occasions I just had to wait until things had cooled before I could start. I ordered a Standard Motor Products SS754 generic solenoid from Amazon ( in the US) on a Thursday and it arrived in Dublin on the following Monday - cost $75. I was able to fit this without removing the snorkel so a fairly quick change. This solenoid is slightly different from the original in that it needs to be fitted with the 12 volt signal wire in the 6 o’clock position so that the stud feeding the starter motor is adjacent to the motor itself.
So effectively I’ve replaced one crappy Chinese solenoid with another cheap Chinese solenoid but so far so good!
 
I replaced a solenoid for a friends RV14 just a couple of months ago. It was a simple job and so far it has worked without any hiccups. It is sad that Harzel continued to sell this starter knowing it was not a worthy product and refuses to help those with the problem. They also doing the same thing with PMAGs as they won't sell you a coil pack if the coil has issues.
 
Hey gang, remember, Hartzell Propeller, Hartzell Aerospace Welding, and Hartzell Engine Tech are three different silos...very different in my opinion.

Hartzell Propeller we know, and EAB has friends there.
Fair point and possibly should have stated that. However, same ownership group and brand name. Companies should be carefull about business practices from subsidiaries that can tank decades of work to build a brand reputation.

I have had nothing but good experiences with hartzel propeller, but seeing how they run these new acquisitions makes me wonder how long that will last. Traditionally, leadership comes from the top. I certainly hope all remains the same.
 
Get a replacement solenoid from almost any auto parts retail store — 2005 Ford Crown Victoria, 4.6L - starter solenoid. OEM BWD S5613.
Buy it at Rock Auto. They are very cheap. I think I paid $25-$30 each. Buy 2, put one on and carry a spare. I'm still waiting for B&C to come up with a starter that fits the IO-390.
 
I’m in the same boat ,250 hrs. Push the starter button and click. Replaced starter with a rebuilt starter from Flight Wigets Aeromotive.makes me disappointed in Hartzell that they have a known defect in their product and won’t do anything about it!
 
Good info, Dan. My problems with my Hartzell starter are one of the reasons I bought a Sensenich GA prop and not a Hartzell CS prop. Spending a few hundred on a BS starter pales to a few thousand on a BS prop.
 
Call me old fashioned but I have a serious problem with core charges on new items. Understandable on rebuilt items, but a complete new manufactured component absolutely should not require a core return
Core charge? That's all about market preservation to deter reuse of the kilo-buck nose casting by rebuilding the starter. Astute VAF-ers know that the LS and PM units consist of a Ford PMGR starter/solenoid attached to a custom nose casting. You can get a new 1991-92 Crown Vic/Town Car 2-bolt starter (those have the proper 10-tooth pinion gear) for under $100 and with an hour's labor have essentially a new starter.

So, I encourage all of you who've bought new Sky-Tec LS or PM starters to sell the core on VAF instead of returning for core value. That way you can help the affordability index of this hobby...

1771951575174.jpeg1771951603692.png1771951714692.jpeg
 
Follow up ? for Tim @ Hartzell:
Because the newly sourced solenoids are “not available for retrofit in the field” does this mean they will not fit in a legacy 149-12XLT starter? or Hartzell won’t sell the part individually?
Can you let me know who the newly sourced solenoids are being manufactured by?

Response from Tim @ Hartzell:
Hi Jeff,
We do not sell individual solenoids as there is no data for field replacement. Remember, we don’t approve any repairs on these starters although I know this is being done in the field on the experimental side of the house. Same reason I can’t provide the solenoid manufacturer.

We do offer solenoid replacement service through our sister company, Quality Aircraft Accessories.
Regards, Tim

Thoughts:
Based Hartzells response, it is unlikely anything has changed dimensionally and they have only sourced a new solenoid. If anyone buys a new Sky-Tec 149-12XLT, take a close look at the solenoid and see if there are any clues as to the manufacturer.
 
Follow up ? for Tim @ Hartzell:
Because the newly sourced solenoids are “not available for retrofit in the field” does this mean they will not fit in a legacy 149-12XLT starter? or Hartzell won’t sell the part individually?
Can you let me know who the newly sourced solenoids are being manufactured by?

Response from Tim @ Hartzell:
Hi Jeff,
We do not sell individual solenoids as there is no data for field replacement. Remember, we don’t approve any repairs on these starters although I know this is being done in the field on the experimental side of the house. Same reason I can’t provide the solenoid manufacturer.

We do offer solenoid replacement service through our sister company, Quality Aircraft Accessories.
Regards, Tim

Thoughts:
Based Hartzells response, it is unlikely anything has changed dimensionally and they have only sourced a new solenoid. If anyone buys a new Sky-Tec 149-12XLT, take a close look at the solenoid and see if there are any clues as to the manufacturer.
Jeff -- The original mfg of the solenoid was Borg Warner (not Bosch) Part # BWD-S5613. It's been cloned/remanufactured by everyone now, and is available from everywhere.
 
Follow up ? for Tim @ Hartzell:
Because the newly sourced solenoids are “not available for retrofit in the field” does this mean they will not fit in a legacy 149-12XLT starter? or Hartzell won’t sell the part individually?
Can you let me know who the newly sourced solenoids are being manufactured by?

Response from Tim @ Hartzell:
Hi Jeff,
We do not sell individual solenoids as there is no data for field replacement. Remember, we don’t approve any repairs on these starters although I know this is being done in the field on the experimental side of the house. Same reason I can’t provide the solenoid manufacturer.

We do offer solenoid replacement service through our sister company, Quality Aircraft Accessories.
Regards, Tim

Thoughts:
Based Hartzells response, it is unlikely anything has changed dimensionally and they have only sourced a new solenoid. If anyone buys a new Sky-Tec 149-12XLT, take a close look at the solenoid and see if there are any clues as to the manufacturer.
I really don't like Hartzells response. Total lack of customer support
 
What do you expect, ten years ago the same Kelly ERZ-8012 or skytech 122nl was 400 bucks new….. they will fork the customer good just to do it.
 
I had the sticking solenoid issue last April. This appeared to be caused by heat build up under the cowling after landing. On a couple of occasions I just had to wait until things had cooled before I could start. I ordered a Standard Motor Products SS754 generic solenoid from Amazon ( in the US) on a Thursday and it arrived in Dublin on the following Monday - cost $75. I was able to fit this without removing the snorkel so a fairly quick change. This solenoid is slightly different from the original in that it needs to be fitted with the 12 volt signal wire in the 6 o’clock position so that the stud feeding the starter motor is adjacent to the motor itself.
So effectively I’ve replaced one crappy Chinese solenoid with another cheap Chinese solenoid but so far so good!
I installed a new SS754 solenoid today. Is there a trick to setting the solenoid piston to the starter plunger? On start, the solenoid briefly engages & then disengages & begins to whine. I'll be going back to the hangar tomorrow to troubleshoot. Any tips would be appreciated.
 
Hey gang, remember, Hartzell Propeller, Hartzell Aerospace Welding, and Hartzell Engine Tech are three different silos...very different in my opinion.

Hartzell Propeller we know, and EAB has friends there.
Friends? I'll take your word for it but............
 
I installed a new SS754 solenoid today. Is there a trick to setting the solenoid piston to the starter plunger? On start, the solenoid briefly engages & then disengages & begins to whine. I'll be going back to the hangar tomorrow to troubleshoot. Any tips would be appreciated.
Sounds like you didn't engage the nub on the end of the plastic plunger to the pinion gear engagement arm. Remove the solenoid again and then pull the pinion gear forward all the way (so that the pinion gear is completely meshed with the ring gear). Then while holding the pinion forward, install the solenoid such that the nub on the end of the white shaft is on the forward side of the engagement arm. That way when the solenoid pulls in, the white shaft pulls aft on the engagement arm, which pushes the pinion forward into the ring gear.
 
Sounds like you didn't engage the nub on the end of the plastic plunger to the pinion gear engagement arm. Remove the solenoid again and then pull the pinion gear forward all the way (so that the pinion gear is completely meshed with the ring gear). Then while holding the pinion forward, install the solenoid such that the nub on the end of the white shaft is on the forward side of the engagement arm. That way when the solenoid pulls in, the white shaft pulls aft on the engagement arm, which pushes the pinion forward into the ring gear.
Ahhh, that's what I missed. Not pulling the pineon gear forward. Thank you. I'll get with it again this morning.

Update: seated the nub & all is well. Thanks again.
 
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Occasionally I go to start my IO360 powered -8, and I get a click with a voltage drop. No prop rotation. After 3-4 try’s, it usually then engages normally. This is on the first start. Not a hot start.

Is this the situation you’re dealing with? I am wondering if my solenoid is bad. I believe I have the lightweight SkyTech 149.
 
Occasionally I go to start my IO360 powered -8, and I get a click with a voltage drop. No prop rotation. After 3-4 try’s, it usually then engages normally. This is on the first start. Not a hot start.

Is this the situation you’re dealing with? I am wondering if my solenoid is bad. I believe I have the lightweight SkyTech 149.
Yes, that's a symptom. Go try a new solenoid and report back please.

Also, once you have the old solenoid removed, get a feel for how the plunger moves in and out. Most of them are sticky, like not smooth in motion.
 
Yes, that's a symptom. Go try a new solenoid and report back please.

Also, once you have the old solenoid removed, get a feel for how the plunger moves in and out. Most of them are sticky, like not smooth in motion.
From this conversation, it seems as though the only option for a new solenoid is to buy an automotive replacement because Hartzell won’t sell just the solenoid. It’s either that, or install a complete new starter?
 
From this conversation, it seems as though the only option for a new solenoid is to buy an automotive replacement because Hartzell won’t sell just the solenoid. It’s either that, or install a complete new starter?
Here’s a secret — it’s all automotive; file STC paperwork, slap a sticker on it, increase the price 50x and you’ve got a great business model.
 
Occasionally I go to start my IO360 powered -8, and I get a click with a voltage drop. No prop rotation. After 3-4 try’s, it usually then engages normally. This is on the first start. Not a hot start.

Is this the situation you’re dealing with? I am wondering if my solenoid is bad. I believe I have the lightweight SkyTech 149.
What is your starting voltage and after the voltage drop.

My battery started out at 12.7V and after EFIS was booted with power only to the EFIS + EMS + PMAG, the voltage dropped to 12.1V. When the voltage dropped to 11.5 - 11.7 Volt range, the starter struggled to turn the propeller. With battery below 11.5V, the starter would not crank. This was on the first start of the day, usually during the cold morning hours. This was my case with the starter with less than 300 hours. If I turn the propeller backward for a couple of turns during preflight, then the starter usually would not bind during the start.
 
What is your starting voltage and after the voltage drop.

My battery started out at 12.7V and after EFIS was booted with power only to the EFIS + EMS + PMAG, the voltage dropped to 12.1V. When the voltage dropped to 11.5 - 11.7 Volt range, the starter struggled to turn the propeller. With battery below 11.5V, the starter would not crank. This was on the first start of the day, usually during the cold morning hours. This was my case with the starter with less than 300 hours. If I turn the propeller backward for a couple of turns during preflight, then the starter usually would not bind during the start.
If an 18AH lead acid battery immediately drops to 12.1V with only a 2A load, that battery is shot.
 
If an 18AH lead acid battery immediately drops to 12.1V with only a 2A load, that battery is shot.
The battery is new! I had another identical battery from the Vans kit and I thought it was shot. Apparently both PC680 batteries behaved like this.
 
I took my bad Skytec to the local automotive starter repair shop. Asked them if they could rebuild this starter for my "air boat" (or I guess I could have said "my RV" and let them go with that thought). $70 later and I had a new solenoid and rebuilt starter "wishbone" (that's what they called the part). Better that $1,300.
 
The B&C starter fits my 390... I did have to glass a small relief into my snorkel but it was not a big deal and there is no change to mp or performance.
Just FYI the SkyTek 149NL can be ordered with your Lycoming engine and fits a 390 in a RV-14A. Both my 390 for the 14A and and 540 for the 10 Lycoming allowed me to specify the NL. That was 9 and 4 years ago but worth asking. The NL has been bullet-prof.
 
Just FYI the SkyTek 149NL can be ordered with your Lycoming engine and fits a 390 in a RV-14A. Both my 390 for the 14A and and 540 for the 10 Lycoming allowed me to specify the NL. That was 9 and 4 years ago but worth asking. The NL has been bullet-prof.
I went through five NL versions before switching to B&C... Sky-Tec went through many iterations of the casting and the more current versions seem to be pretty good. Side by side the B&C appears to be a superior design but time will tell for me.
 
I went through five NL versions before switching to B&C... Sky-Tec went through many iterations of the casting and the more current versions seem to be pretty good. Side by side the B&C appears to be a superior design but time will tell for me.
5 !?!

What was the signature and root cause of the failures?
 
I went through five NL versions before switching to B&C... Sky-Tec went through many iterations of the casting and the more current versions seem to be pretty good. Side by side the B&C appears to be a superior design but time will tell for me.
Does Lycoming allow one to delete the starter or go with B&C now? 5? Friends at the airport have had zero issues with NL's. Over 750 hours on my 14A and has been flawless.
 
Another data point - my B & C unit (BCS -206 on Lyc IO-360) now has 2975hrs on it, still going strong despite 2 ring gears being replaced due 'kickback' - now that's a good starter IMO;)
 
5 !?!

What was the signature and root cause of the failures?
Two were replaced under warranty, one was a cost friendly swap, I later bought a backup outright and have two on the shelf. One is working okay, the other was rebuilt by Flight Widgets.

The nose casting broke and separated on one early on. The others experienced some level of interment failure to engage from fretting between the solenoid and main body contaminating the interior... they have changed the casting and the rod connections quite a bit and the most current version that I have is notably improved from the early versions. The I'm out moment was a failed crimp on the power line to the solenoid during a long cross country... I was able to make a temporary field repair but ordered a B&C while in the air on the way home.

The shear pin for anti kick back protection has never sheared for me despite the total nose casting failure.

Inspection of the case join at the solenoid and retorquing of the connecting rods should be routine to minimize fretting.
 
We have an IO-390 exp119 received with the default Skytec 149-12xlt in March of 2021. Exactly 235 starts before getting the click described by the OP. Replacing the solenoid seems to be the logical first step. If possible, I’d like to minimize the frequency of this repair by sourcing a quality replacement solenoid. For those that have experience in this area is there a trusted manufacturer or source? Stores, Dealers, Brand & Part numbers would be hugely helpful. Thanks!
 
We have an IO-390 exp119 received with the default Skytec 149-12xlt in March of 2021. Exactly 235 starts before getting the click described by the OP. Replacing the solenoid seems to be the logical first step. If possible, I’d like to minimize the frequency of this repair by sourcing a quality replacement solenoid. For those that have experience in this area is there a trusted manufacturer or source? Stores, Dealers, Brand & Part numbers would be hugely helpful. Thanks!
BWD S5613... (Borg Warner S5613)

Google from there. Almost every retail autopart store will sell a "clone" part. YMMV.
 
We have an IO-390 exp119 received with the default Skytec 149-12xlt in March of 2021. Exactly 235 starts before getting the click described by the OP. Replacing the solenoid seems to be the logical first step. If possible, I’d like to minimize the frequency of this repair by sourcing a quality replacement solenoid. For those that have experience in this area is there a trusted manufacturer or source? Stores, Dealers, Brand & Part numbers would be hugely helpful. Thanks!
At the auto parts stores, sometimes they are difficult to get a part out of them without giving them a car model. As said before in here, a Ford Crown Victoria, any year, any model works. I got a lifetime replacement one at O’rileys for a few dollars more than their basic one.

Forgot to mention, add the small Allen bit to your travel toolkit if you have any intention of changing one out on the road. Had to borrow a bit from a local mechanic. Small Allen’s aren’t common on our planes so I didn’t have one in my travel kit.
 
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At the auto parts stores, sometimes they are difficult to get a part out of them without giving them a car model. As said before in here, a Ford Crown Victoria, any year, any model works. I got a lifetime replacement one at O’rileys for a few dollars more than their basic one.

Forgot to mention, add the small Allen bit to your travel toolkit if you have any intention of changing one out on the road. Had to borrow a bit from a local mechanic. Small Allen’s aren’t common on our planes so I didn’t have one in my travel kit.
ALLEN BIT!!! Great reminder! Thank you!

I ordered two solenoids from O’Reilly with the Limited Lifetime Warranty. Hopefully the replacement lasts longer than the original.
 
What Torque specification should I use for attaching the solenoid to the starter body? AI is saying 18 ft-lbs (25 Nm).
 
When replacing the solenoid on a 14A with an IO-390exp-119, are you able to replace the solenoid and get the plunger lined up without removing the starter as well?
Thanks
 
When replacing the solenoid on a 14A with an IO-390exp-119, are you able to replace the solenoid and get the plunger lined up without removing the starter as well?
Thanks
Not sure about the 14A configuration, I was able to replace my solenoid without removing the starter on my IO360 Superior forward induction.
 
I had no problem replacing the solenoid on my RV14A with the IO-390 exp 100 (not exp119). A straight swap - no need to remove starter or snorkel.
See post #5.
 
I just bought that exact new Skytech 149-12XLT starter late last year (Oct 2025). Does that mean I have the new solenoid?
 
Sounds like you didn't engage the nub on the end of the plastic plunger to the pinion gear engagement arm. Remove the solenoid again and then pull the pinion gear forward all the way (so that the pinion gear is completely meshed with the ring gear). Then while holding the pinion forward, install the solenoid such that the nub on the end of the white shaft is on the forward side of the engagement arm. That way when the solenoid pulls in, the white shaft pulls aft on the engagement arm, which pushes the pinion forward into the ring gear.
Thanks for posting this. This tip about the pinion gear allowed me to remove and replace the solenoid.
 
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