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Horizontal Stab Pivot Bolt Fell Out In Flight - RV-12 E-LSA

jackking123

Well Known Member
Patron
I am posting just FYI, check those two pivot bolts that holds the Horz. Stab on. Skip to 7th Par below to get to the point. Btw no accident, no damage but scary.

I am a EAA Tech counselor. This is how I got to know the Gent that built a RV-12 E-LSA. I did the final inspection.
It is beautifully built and equip. There were some small issues, exhaust to cowl clearance, flaperons to fuselage clearance, some wires without enough service slack... nothing major.

He flew it a full year. He called me about doing his first condition, how to do compression test. I advised him on phone. He took Rainbow Aviation LSA-I two day course. I was surprised he was not shown compression test?

I get another call months later, after he did condition inspection. But now he needed help putting in solid rivets. He did not have rivet gun, bucking bar. He has a squeezer but not able to fit into the area. Glad to help him. He had removed the Horz stab and it was at his house. (I still know nothing of missing bolt.)

In the past to install the flying Horz Stab on a RV-12 you had put spacers (washers in) the lug clevis joints. All RV's have a clevis/lug joint for flight controls and use washers to shim out the gap. Anyway everyone knows what a pain it is to get those washers in there. Van now has a kit for the RV-12 to add spacers that rivet in, using the same rivets as the nut-plate rivets. This makes installing the Horz Stab easier.

He has installed solids -before using his rivet squeezer, but there was room before assembly of the Horz stab. Now they needed to be riveted with gun/bar. So I helped him get those new nut plates and spacers installed. That is when he told me what happened.

He and his wife were flying back home
, in cruise, when the autopilot was hunting to maintain altitude a bit. He disconnected and could tell something was off. He landed safely at nearest airport. They were close enough to home, family drove out and picked up the builders wife. Builder stayed behind. People at airport helped him investigate. That is when the bolt was found sitting in bottom of the fuselage, Only one of two bolts for the two main pivot points was attaching the Horz stab to the fuselage.

Why did it not fail (fall off)? The one bolt, plus the two pull pull up down cables, and the trim cable held it on. Yes the control cables held it on in part. The RV-12 as you likely know has a flying tail, not fixed stab with elevators like other current RV's. No major damage, except chaffing of two gusset plates/stops at the top, inboard end ribs and spar. They had groves and suspect the fuselage cut out was supporting the Horz. stab as well as the one bolt and control cables.

Speculation away but be kind please. Never tight? He missed it during condition inspection (which I offered to help with but he never took me up on). I quizzed him. He said he checked all the cables and bolts and did not see anything wrong at the time. I asked about torque of bolts. He knew the answers and also as we all do if there is no room for a torque wrench you calibrate your arm, use the German method: "Gut Un Tight"

INSPECTION is a bit of an art, bright light, magnifying glass, mirrors, touching, moving comes in. I am not a professional A&P or IA. I have been around a lot of them. Inspectors are different breed, at least good ones. Attention to detail, know what to look for and how to look for it. I have learned over the year (sometimes by missing things). Fortunately my mistakes were benign.

[MOSAIC people only need is a 2 day course and going to keep a plane safe they did not build, do condition inspections. OK. It is possible this person also has limited mechanical abilities? We hope they have good judgement and will know their limitations and get help. I also hope the FAA has a better plan than the current two day LSA-I course. Repairman ticket on one plane you built, did not assure you were an expert mechanic or inspector. I do think it was far better than a two day generic class on LSA's. Are they going to change the curriculum to include Lycoming's and EAB's. My first RV-4 I remember the learning curve in maintaining and inspecting, and repairs. Eye-opening. I owned Part 23 and did a lot of the work with A&P watching. I had built cars and motorcycles but never a plane I built. That was over 30 yrs ago. I see this RV-12 E-LSA builder kind of like me. He built the plane and took the LSA course but he was not sure how to do a compression test. Don't want people to get hurt missing critical things is all.]

I called Van's about something else but asked about RV-12's losing Horz Stab bolts. Gary says never heard of it.

ONLY thing keeping the bolt from backing out is the nut plate locking feature. Blue Loctite? Red Loctite? This is a rotating joint ALBEIT with a bearing so friction should be low. The builder asked me about drilling the bolt and using a cotter pin in threaded end? I kind of discounted the idea but think may be not a bad idea?

[Autopilot Servo, with rotating joints and only nylon Lok nuts on bolts, not a fan of it, just me. If it comes lose and it jams the aileron or elevator, that is bad thing. I don't want anything in the flight controls coming loose... no one does. ]

These RV-12 Horz stab bolts are not easy to see without the fairing off. I went over his plane for a EAA Tech final inspection. I tell people just like the FAA inspection YOU (the builder) are certifying you have inspected everything. If it is covered I can't see it...

To be noted when I looked at this RV-12 the FAA had already signed off on it. I gather it was mostly a paperwork exercise. A final EAA Tech counselor report (these are free by the way) is a lot more about details, placards and paperwork typically pre FAA inspection. All planes I have looked at are very well made, including this RV-12. However when I see these planes built, ready to fly I can only see what I can see. If it is partially disassembled great. Cowl always comes off. There are early, mid and final EAA tech visit reports. So by all means have other eyes on your project throughout the build. I saw this plane at the end. Again workmanship was very good. I did however ask he open up the baggage area to see the control cable routing.

Keep in mind my EAA Tech Inspect was almost 1.5 yrs ago, and it was before it flew (but after the FAA was out). I got a good wiggle, check for play, function, rigging of all control surfaces. Saw clearance issues (FAA missed). However the stick felt like it had some play in pitch due to cable slack, heard cable slap (but I was being a bit aggressive). Had him remove the baggage area and inspect cables again, routing (a common mistake) and check tension. RV-12's have play in stick because it is cable not push pull tubes. The control stick bushings seem to have play even new. RV's with solid tube, bearing flight control systems are just more solid feeling. The RV-12 is different significantly but they fly great. Anyway the bolt was in for over a year and 100 hours. Why it came put I have no idea.

No preaching, just be careful and may be pull the tail fairing off and have a good look. That FIRST condition inspection is very important. He either missed it or it got lose in the 5 months post condition inspection??? I am not going to guess but he and his wife go to Church... Just saying, God was looking over them IMHO.
 
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I once had a similar issue on a C180. Owner had the thing totally rebuilt, beautiful machine. Not sure how many hours were on it at the time but probably around 50. Owner went to wash it after a day of float training with me and found the v-stab flopping back and fourth. Turned out when it was time to go for paint, the mechanics quickly threw the tail on with two finger tight bolts, and forgot about it by the time it came back.

I also always do a good grab and wiggle check! We are fortunate to be able to reach the tail on our little aeroplanes.

Alex
 
These bolts can easily be looked at with a small flashlight and a small inspection mirror with out take off the faring. It takes 5 minutes to look and see if they are seated all the way in.
 
Seems like a simple pre-flight would have caught that. As I walk around I grab the horizontal and give it a tug. If I would ever feel ANY play it would be a red flag.
Great point and thank you. It was apparently IN for takeoff. Came out after an hour in flight when A/P started hunting altitudes. With the bolt backed out but still in the wiggle might be small to nil. However point taken.
 
These bolts can easily be looked at with a small flashlight and a small inspection mirror with out take off the faring. It takes 5 minutes to look and see if they are seated all the way in.
I will pass that on... but how many pilots have an inspection mirror and flashlight doing a day walkaround? Great tip. I think I will for my own SOP add the mirror. Already have a flashlight but never get it out during the day. Thank you.
 
Great point and thank you. It was apparently IN for takeoff. Came out after an hour in flight when A/P started hunting altitudes. With the bolt backed out but still in the wiggle might be small to nil. However point taken.
I didn't mean any disrespect.

I thought it best to check mine before saying anything else. For those wondering, the "nut" is a riveted nut plate, if it was loose, or off you can't see it with an inspection mirror or bore cam. You "may" be able to see if there was shoulder showing at the bolt head but it would take a very flexible bore cam for that. I backed mine off 4 turns and there is NO noticeable wiggle in the stabilizer, so if your bolt was anything but falling out a preflight tug tells nothing. If the bolt is into the nut more than 6 threads it is unlikely to back out. The running friction of the nut plate is about 10 in-lb. If the nut plate or bolt threads are worn then anything is possible. Best advice is check torque on conditional inspection.
 
Contrast colour torque seal makes a visual inspection easier.

John.
Unfortunately torque seal isn’t a reliable indicator of a loose bolt. It is used a a marker to show, at one point in time, the bolt/nut was torqued.
It may or may not look fine upon inspection and be otherwise. Just a word of caution.
 
is torque seal not a good indicator of bolt torque or of a bolt head that has moved?
Torque seal will not tell you if a bolt is loose or damaged as the result of stretching, or failure of the fastener on the other end of the bolt. It seems to have become customary in GA to use it to tell half the story, but putting a tool on the fastener to check is a better way to know for sure. It is useful as a visual check on a variety of fittings, caps, etc...but it's worth thinking carefully about what it's really telling you on bolts and nuts in half blind applications.

Even as an assembly indicator, much of the literature implies that it should be used along with other process and procedure controls. It can just as easily be applied by mistake and become a false indication.

Use it carefully.
 
I doubt this applies, but is this person perhaps a member of the, "these nutplates are easier to use after I run a tap through them" club?
I'll ask him. In general bolts you can get a wrench on don't need to make it easier. Now small nut plates with small screws I have been tempted.

I do use nut plates for a drill guides, and those get the tap for ease of screw installation. They are never used for structure, just a drill jig. Good point.
 
I hope he pulls the stabilator and checks the K1000-4 nutplate to see if the threads may be stripped and that he used the correct length bolt. At a minimum I would replace the K1000 while the stabilator is off the aircraft. I would not use Red Loctite.

They all have been replaced. Thanks for the tip.
 
I didn't mean any disrespect.

I thought it best to check mine before saying anything else. For those wondering, the "nut" is a riveted nut plate, if it was loose, or off you can't see it with an inspection mirror or bore cam. You "may" be able to see if there was shoulder showing at the bolt head but it would take a very flexible bore cam for that. I backed mine off 4 turns and there is NO noticeable wiggle in the stabilizer, so if your bolt was anything but falling out a preflight tug tells nothing. If the bolt is into the nut more than 6 threads it is unlikely to back out. The running friction of the nut plate is about 10 in-lb. If the nut plate or bolt threads are worn then anything is possible. Best advice is check torque on conditional inspection.

All detective work aside, it fell out... it was not loose it backed out many turns. It appears he had two threads showing, i.e., proper grip length but I will double check.

Were there signs before, I am assuming yes? If not wiggling the Horz stab, visual, which I am told is possible with light and mirror.

Nut plates were replaced. Minor chaffing of gussets were blended out. I will review with him his pre-flight again. (I am a CFI and did give him flight training).

I will review what he did for the condition inspection again, and ask next time to let me assist. I can't force him.

The pucker factor is high just thinking about it. Cheers
 
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Today I tried a bunch of different positions around the stab to see if I could get a glimpse of the bolt securely in the nutplate and I actually found one. :) If you get under and in front of the bolt and then pull the leading edge of the stab down, from the front, below and inboard a bit, looking between the stab and the tailcone you can see the threads of the bolt coming out of the nutplate. (need a good flashlight)
 
I’ve used castellated nuts with cotter pins on all bolt/nut combos that have any rotation since day one. A bit of a PITA initially installing, but after a couple times on and off I got the hang of it. So all rudder and elevator hinges, control tubes to bellcranks and control sticks etc. gives great piece of mind
 
i have already received my drilled head bolts from acs. i don't see a problem drilling a hole on the bracket to anchor the safety wire seems do able. vans tech didn't see a problem drilling the bracket. they asked for pics from me first .
if stab is well supported before pulling the old bolt i am expecting everything to remain aligned and it will be easy. i have always been suspect of that bolting arrangement.
 
Good idea, just finished mine, new drilled head bolts safety wired to the bracket. I supported the stabilizer, and the bolts came out easy, the new ones went in without a problem. The safety wire took some time due to the limited access.
 
How has the factory not said anything about this? We get service bulletins for what seem like trivial things but an aircraft looses 1 of only 2 attach bolts for the stabilator and nothing for a month? Even if it’s only one in a fleet… I’d say there has to be something going on at the factory to investigate and at least put out a statement if it’s not a concern. Shouldn’t take a guy installing his rod end bearings backwards and crashing into a wherehouse “type of thing” to get a response from the factory… this should be plenty.

Tailcone skin cracking, landing gear brackets, nose gear, hell even the counterbalance weight falling off… they all don’t seem as immediately flight critical as the stabilator coming partially unattached… 🤔
 
How has the factory not said anything about this? We get service bulletins for what seem like trivial things but an aircraft looses 1 of only 2 attach bolts for the stabilator and nothing for a month? Even if it’s only one in a fleet… I’d say there has to be something going on at the factory to investigate and at least put out a statement if it’s not a concern. Shouldn’t take a guy installing his rod end bearings backwards and crashing into a wherehouse “type of thing” to get a response from the factory… this should be plenty.

Tailcone skin cracking, landing gear brackets, nose gear, hell even the counterbalance weight falling off… they all don’t seem as immediately flight critical as the stabilator coming partially unattached… 🤔
second that
 
I agree - if the original poster hasn't notified Van's Support, he should. Maybe also send a link to this thread...
The original poster, who according the story was not hands-on with the aircraft and heard about this after the fact. He also describes that the same after-the-fact discussion about the bolts involved justification of the 'gut un tight' method instead of a torque wrench. I think the answer to the question about factory comment/SBs is that we just don't have the relevant facts as a basis for Van's to comment on. In the other examples given, the difference is that Van's has photographic or other evidence of a problem and the consequences. In this case we have a bolt that fell out from a location where there does not seem to be a pattern of this happening. It was replaced, and the last person to have touched that assembly is keeping it to themselves. A third party has made a post on a forum that is essentially anonymous with respect to the subject aircraft.

I think the safety wire is a fine idea. If/when I ever pull the stab I will probably re-install with the drilled head and safety wire.
 
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I did not drill and safety wire my stab pivot bolts because of the original post. I have over 1750 hrs and have never had a loose bolt. I have had the stab off once for the counter balance SB and everything was still torqued properly. I pulled the bolts when this post started and the torque was fine. BUT, my concern was having such critical bolts in an inaccessible location that can’t be easily seen, less checked during a pre-flight seemed a bit sketchy. So, do they need safety wire, …… I was already there on the conditional, so why not.
 
i still haven't been to my hangar to replace the bolts and safety them but i think the wire could be attached to the sleeve above the pivot bolt that is the control stop for the stab. doing this from memory but i think there is plenty of room for the wire and still stay clear of the contact area on the stop.
 
I have trouble visualizing a bolt backing out of a plate nut, especially with the minimal rotation and limited torque placed on it. There is a bearing there.
 
some general or like person said something like''our goal is not to worsen the devil's odds at the game but to not let him play.''
 
I have trouble visualizing a bolt backing out of a plate nut, especially with the minimal rotation and limited torque placed on it. There is a bearing there.
I agree in principal but if the bearing does not move freely, then the bolt becomes the axle subject to rotation. What is the liklihood of this happening? Very rare as there are several hundred RV-12s flying thousands of hours over 20+ years and we have a case report of one. If a significant issue, I suspect it would have risen to attention before now. I want to know more about the condition of the bearing, damaged, painted, gunk, last time lubricated etc. Am I rushing out to safety wire these 2 bolts, no, will I inspect closer sure. If the bolts have to be pulled, then I likely will replace with drilled head and wire tie. Meantime take care of all the control surface bearings.
 
Just a FYI;
Over 10%, or 21,000+ GA aircraft use a stabilator that pivots similar to the -12, All certified aircraft use a castellated nut and cotter key, no 'friction" nuts. The idea of adding a safety wire to the -12 is not out of line when considering standard aviation practices.
 
Well update. He made the mods and got drilled bolt head fasteners and safety wired the bolts. The plane is flying again. Problem solved.

I do find relying just on nut plate locking to be marginal. The difficulty to inspect bolts during preflight is also an issue, marginal IMHO. May be a small hole in fairing with thin Plexi cover to see these bolts easily.

However safety wire I am of the opinion is a must mod. Be safe...
 
if this was a 20 minute fix everyone would have safety wired by now. seems like the likelihood of a catastropic failure [meaning you are dead, no questions asked] is inversely proportional to the time spent making it 100% safe.
or is the safety wire like a bear scare in your backyard if you live in manhatten?
 
I'll add another warning about this issue. Yesterday I was doing a pre-flight inspection on my RV-12iS, and I noticed a little play (and a subtle clicking noise) in the left side of the stabilator when I jiggled the tip up and down. So I removed the upper tailcone fairing and checked the AN4 stab pivot bolts. The left side bolt was quite loose, needing about a 1/2 turn to bring it back up to the required torque (70 in-lb, which includes friction torque). The right side was also a little loose, needing about 1/8 turn to bring it back up to torque. I recall carefully torquing those bolts just over a year ago during final assembly, and my airplane has been flying for only 7 months/85 hours (so it has not had a condition inspection yet).

I'm quite surprised these bolts loosened this much in such a short amount of time. Based on the discussions in this thread, I plan to replace the bolts with drilled-head versions soon and safety wire them in place. Lesson learned is to carefully check for this issue in every pre-flight inspection! Make sure to actually jiggle the stab tips to feel for any new play and listen for any clicking noises.
 
I smell an SB coming...
I'm not too sure about that....

In July 2026, it will be the 17 year anniversary of the certification of the production SLSA RV-12ULS (it and another airplane had been flying even earlier than that as prototypes).
It and every RV-12 ULS and iS since then (the vans aircraft hobbs meter currently shows 824 flying, but there is probably quite a few more) have the exact same stabilator attachment.

Going 16+ years with zero reports of this type of issue, and then suddenly in 3 months time there are two, and both on relatively new airplanes???
It will probably require a bit more research regarding what might have caused these two instances, before a SA or SB would be issued.

I have personally removed / replaced the stabilator multiple times from at least 2 different RV-12's that I can remember, and I have never seen anything like this.
 
Thank you for weighing in, Scott. Any ideas what might have caused this? Insufficient torque on the bolts? Nutplates with weak locking threads? Tight roller bearings that impart a light torque on the bolt?

Regarding torque, I used 70 in-lb when installing these bolts--which was intentionally on the lower end of the recommended torque range. My rationale for that was to reduce the chances of binding in a flight control. The recommended torque for AN4 bolts is 50-70 in-lb plus friction torque, so I decided to use 55 in-lb of torque plus 14 in-lb of measured friction, for a total of 69. Which I rounded up to 70. Would you suggest using a higher torque?
 
I just thought of another potential culprit. Like others, I used a wobble socket extension on my torque wrench to allow accessing the bolt head in this tight area (see photo below). That can affect the torque applied. The angle of the two extensions I used is only a few degrees from straight, so I don't think angle is a major factor. But after a little research I just realized the swivel socket itself can absorb some of the torque through friction and binding, which can cause under-torquing. And come to think of it, the long length of the 1/4" drive socket extension can also absorb some of the torque through twisting. So it seems possible my low-end torque setting coupled with a long wobble socket extension resulted in an under-torqued bolt. Any thoughts?
 

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FYI, I sent at message to Vans right after I posted my original note (#17, posted on Sept 17 oddly). No feedback as of yet…
 
Steve - just another data point for you - our stab bolts are showing about 3-4 threads out of the nutplate.
 
Thanks for the data point, Jon. I'll get a small mirror in there soon to see how many threads I've got.

Interesting to see you're based at KAWO--so am I! I'm up in the north hangars.
 
I just thought of another potential culprit. Like others, I used a wobble socket extension on my torque wrench to allow accessing the bolt head in this tight area (see photo below). That can affect the torque applied. The angle of the two extensions I used is only a few degrees from straight, so I don't think angle is a major factor. But after a little research I just realized the swivel socket itself can absorb some of the torque through friction and binding, which can cause under-torquing. And come to think of it, the long length of the 1/4" drive socket extension can also absorb some of the torque through twisting. So it seems possible my low-end torque setting coupled with a long wobble socket extension resulted in an under-torqued bolt. Any thoughts?
Use of a swivel at such a low angle would have no effect on applied torque.

Likewise, the extension does not change applied torque.
 
I'll add another warning about this issue. Yesterday I was doing a pre-flight inspection on my RV-12iS, and I noticed a little play (and a subtle clicking noise) in the left side of the stabilator when I jiggled the tip up and down. So I removed the upper tailcone fairing and checked the AN4 stab pivot bolts. The left side bolt was quite loose, needing about a 1/2 turn to bring it back up to the required torque (70 in-lb, which includes friction torque). The right side was also a little loose, needing about 1/8 turn to bring it back up to torque. I recall carefully torquing those bolts just over a year ago during final assembly, and my airplane has been flying for only 7 months/85 hours (so it has not had a condition inspection yet).

I'm quite surprised these bolts loosened this much in such a short amount of time. Based on the discussions in this thread, I plan to replace the bolts with drilled-head versions soon and safety wire them in place. Lesson learned is to carefully check for this issue in every pre-flight inspection! Make sure to actually jiggle the stab tips to feel for any new play and listen for any clicking noises.
Wouldn’t a castellated nut and cotter pin solve the problem?

All certified aircraft require castellated nuts and cotter pins on all primary controls. Regardless of what the kits manufacturer allows…that logic makes the most sense to me.
 
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