Slider canopy stop / latch

[Kiwifly]

I see flyboys do one for the 8 which looks a nice solution but doesn't work on side by side RVs

Any neat ideas on a latch/ stop that allows you to have the canopy open a few inches for taxying ?

RV 9 slider.

 

[Sportquattro]

I see flyboys do one for the 8 which looks a nice solution but doesn't work on side by side RVs

Any neat ideas on a latch/ stop that allows you to have the canopy open a few inches for taxying ?

RV 9 slider.

Do you "need" a latch for taxy'ing? I frequently taxy my RV9A when its hot weather (yes it happens occasionally in the UK) and just slide it back 6" or so and it stays there, I close it and secure it during my power checks and have never felt the need for a latch. Your mileage may vary of course.

Nige

 

[Kiwifly]

Do you "need" a latch for taxy'ing? I frequently taxy my RV9A when its hot weather (yes it happens occasionally in the UK) and just slide it back 6" or so and it stays there, I close it and secure it during my power checks and have never felt the need for a latch. Your mileage may vary of course.

Nige

Hi Nige

maybe as mines a taildragger the angle makes it slide back, the 8 has a latch that works well. I found it hot on my recent trip to south France.

 

[Scott Hersha]

Keep it simple. What I use on my RV6 tail dragger. I have stronger clamps that work well, but this one is small and strong enough to hold.

 

[SmoothAirCruiser]

I've been thinking about this for a while.

I currently use a large binder/bulldog clip on the rail in front of the roller to stop the canopy sucking closed. It works - but is really ugly and clumsy to put in place especially after landing when you desperately want that fresh air but you're still rolling.

A better solution I think would be a detent. Something that provides some resistance at a point (or series of points) but the roller could still move past with a little extra force/speed. I imagine this as a groove in the bottom edge of the track that the roller drop down just a bit. Maybe formed but creating a 1/4 inch square window in the bottom surface of the rail (and maybe a small matching dent in the top of the skin)

I expect this would be something easy to experiment with at build stage. Harder on my flying plane.

Very interested in hearing other peoples throughs / solutions.

 

[Kiwifly]

I have a couple of ideas on the drawing board, will report back when I have made a prototype.

 

[MikeyDale]

I solved this problem about 5 years ago and it has worked great! I have the Flyboys Supertracks Canopy extension so I have a roller as you can see in the picture. You could come up with a piece to replace it if you dont have the Canopy Extension. I made a L shaped piece from a piece of stainless steel sheet I had laying around. I attached it in the middle with a stainless screw and nylock nut with a deldrin washer between so that it will rock with the smallest of effort yet stay in the position I want. Then I put another screw with washers to act as a stop. Now I can move this small inconspicuous piece with my elbow while taxiing without even looking. Pictured is the open position and the closed position. Closed position holds my canopy open about 6 inches open.

 

[turbosaaber]

I did a McMaster Carr locking detent on a fabricated aluminum l bracket which mounts under the rear canopy frame with a small notch in the canopy rail for the detent pin. Reason I needed it was magnetic interference with Manometers or AHRS unit mounted behind the bulkhead on RV7. Works great and found the idea on here. It was super easy and works great. I'm sure the thread is still here...did it around 2013 if that helps in your search if interested....

McMaster-Carr. Part number 8480A1.

I drilled one hole in the canopy rail to allow the canopy to be held about 6 inches open (for taxiing or parking in the sun) but could have drilled multiple holes for multiple positions.

 

[eavila1]

I did a McMaster Carr locking detent on a fabricated aluminum l bracket which mounts under the rear canopy frame with a small notch in the canopy rail for the detent pin. Reason I needed it was magnetic interference with Manometers or AHRS unit mounted behind the bulkhead on RV7. Works great and found the idea on here. It was super easy and works great. I'm sure the thread is still here...did it around 2013 if that helps in your search if interested....

McMaster-Carr. Part number 8480A1.

I drilled one hole in the canopy rail to allow the canopy to be held about 6 inches open (for taxiing or parking in the sun) but could have drilled multiple holes for multiple positions.

Carl do you have a pic of this setup on your canopy?

 

[uk_figs]

Dont have a picture but I riveted a 1" piece of hinge to the inside of the rail about 6" back and just flip the hinge over the track to stop the canopy rolling back while taxiing or starting the engine. I flip it back after I close the canopy in case I need to get the canopy open in a hurry.
Figs

 

[eavila1]

Dont have a picture but I riveted a 1" piece of hinge to the inside of the rail about 6" back and just flip the hinge over the track to stop the canopy rolling back while taxiing or starting the engine. I flip it back after I close the canopy in case I need to get the canopy open in a hurry.
Figs

I like that. Simple easy solution

 

[Metzger130]

EZ-STOP Gen 2

This is for anyone who has a slider type canopy and would like to have (or already has) an intermediate "stop" to keep the canopy from moving further aft when entering/exiting (think -8 solo). The universal, spring loaded plunger type has a flat mounting face and countersunk holes (for...

vansairforce.net

 

[HFS]

EZ-STOP Gen 2

This is for anyone who has a slider type canopy and would like to have (or already has) an intermediate "stop" to keep the canopy from moving further aft when entering/exiting (think -8 solo). The universal, spring loaded plunger type has a flat mounting face and countersunk holes (for...

vansairforce.net

This, FYI, does not work on side-by-sides, as the opening of the canopy rail faces inward instead of outward, so the "plunger" can't be mounted on the rail.

However, having said that, I am working on a solution where the plunger mounts on the canopy frame and "indexes" in a hole(s) in the rail, somewhat like the description above (McMaster part) except a simpler, more universal installation. I just need some measurements on a 6, 7, 9 or 14 to confirm the design.
Should have a prototype shortly ...

HFS
EZ-STOP Gen 2

 

[Stoo]

Here is what I did on my 6. Short length of 3/16" brass rod threaded at both ends 6-32 for machine screws. This makes the rod captive in the hole

 

[Marlonyoung]

Here is what I did on my 6. Short length of 3/16" brass rod threaded at both ends 6-32 for machine screws. This makes the rod captive in the hole

Great solution

 

[Kiwifly]

Here is what I did on my 6. Short length of 3/16" brass rod threaded at both ends 6-32 for machine screws. This makes the rod captive in the hole

This is a great idea, is it just the force of the canopy acting on the rod that prevents the rod dropping back down?

 

[alpinelakespilot2000]

Here is what I did on my 6. Short length of 3/16" brass rod threaded at both ends 6-32 for machine screws. This makes the rod captive in the hole

Agree, great solution. Even found a pre-threaded 2” aluminum binding post in the hardware drawers at both my local Ace and TrueValue stores. Ended up being a 30 minute project. Thanks for the idea!

 

[alpinelakespilot2000]

This is a great idea, is it just the force of the canopy acting on the rod that prevents the rod dropping back down?

That is true for my installation. On the taildragger the canopy weight easily holds the pin up. Then if you want to release it all you need to do is push the canopy forward slightly.

If you wanted it to stand up by itself you could drill the canopy deck lower hole a bit larger and use a tight fitting rubber grommet on that hole. The friction should nicely hold the pin up.

 

[Scott Hersha]

Here is what I did on my 6. Short length of 3/16" brass rod threaded at both ends 6-32 for machine screws. This makes the rod captive in the hole

I like this one. Think I’ll steal it for my RV6. Great idea. Thank you.

 

[Kiwifly]

That is true for my installation. On the taildragger the canopy weight easily holds the pin up. Then if you want to release it all you need to do is push the canopy forward slightly.

If you wanted it to stand up by itself you could drill the canopy deck lower hole a bit larger and use a tight fitting rubber grommet on that hole. The friction should nicely hold the pin up.

mines a taildragger so think this will be fine, im off to the hangar !!

 

[Dugaru]

Agree, great solution. Even found a pre-threaded 2” aluminum binding post in the hardware drawers at both my local Ace and TrueValue stores. Ended up being a 30 minute project. Thanks for the idea!

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This is an elegantly simple solution!

Be sure to brief passengers on this gadget, as it might prevent the canopy from opening in the unlikely event that you wind up upside down.

 

[rv6n6r]

Saw this thread yesterday and just had to do it... works great!