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Did not know that, thanks
Ok, I thought it had to been when you were mating the surfaces.
I opted to run a small bead along the overlap edge while building to improve the seal and provide support along the seam. Remember the same opening exists on the inboard edge as well. Don't ignore the instructions to prime that very large faying surface. I opted for a small amount of out of date sealant, worked fine and doesn't need to be fuel proof.
Cape, Thanks for the info. Any sealant suggested to source locally?
Thanks Chris. As I have not worked with Pro-Seal, do not know how messy it is. Can it be applied with a syringe to keep in neat/clean looking?
I doubt it, but maybe someone has figured out how. It's too thick for even large syringes. "Neat/clean looking" is not language you usually hear for ProSeal. If you do use it, mask off all the surrounding area because it is going to spread where you don't intend. More to the point, though, the gap being filled at the wing walk does not need the adhesive or fire-retardant properties of ProSeal. Others may have different opinions, but I don't see any advantage to using it in that location.
Have not used epoxy yet and do not know how flexible it is, so would that not crack if used where the wing skins are flexing?
Seems everybody dreads using Proseal. Actually not too bad. Just like epoxy get the slow setting and you have plenty of working time. Getting in a hurry is what causes the mess. Wear gloves it won't come off skin very easily. Cotton rag or micro fiber wipes it well when "wet". See:
When you were laying the skins, how far in from the edge did you apply the Pro-Seal and was it about 1/4" width? I assume when you riveted the skins some pressed out and you wiped that off. Thanks for the pics very helpful.
More like an 1/8 ". Used edge of tongue depressor, Put it right along the edge of the overlap where bottom/leading edge skin lays on top skin. None under that joint. Yes used a new micro fiber towel to wipe excess off after clecoing the wing walker doubler on, then immediately riveted while sealant was still wet and would flow a bit. Wiped again. Turned out ok and wiping wet Proseal a lot easier than sanding epoxy imho. Further, that gap now has sealant the full width of the doubler, remains flexible, and provides structural support in the gap where people put their weight on one foot. Can't hurt and that's the way I read the KAI after looking at the structure. Be sure and prime the underside of the doubler and the top skins that lie under the doubler. Clecoed the doubler down and masked to the edge. Rattle canned it with SEM. Be sure and let primer cure out, i let it sit about 5 days before putting Proseal on and riveting. Pix with first pass of primer, I know it looks light because it is.
Thanks for the info and pics..
