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  #31  
Old 07-06-2022, 11:17 PM
gasman gasman is offline
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Sonoma County
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Weefle View Post
Just curious for those using this filter. Describe the cleaning process and what solvent are you using? Then where are you disposing of the waste solvent? Can it be taken to a normal oil recycling facility?

Thanks
Keith
I plan to use Dawn dish soap and hot water in a jar with a spacer in the bottom to hold up the filter. Agitate, let set, and pour through a coffee filter and repeat. Dry with a hair dryer and dump the soapy water.
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  #32  
Old 07-07-2022, 06:15 AM
Freemasm Freemasm is offline
 
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Location: Orlando
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Weefle View Post
.........what solvent are you using? Then where are you disposing of the waste solvent? Can it be taken to a normal oil recycling facility?
Can't speak for our northern brothers; however, it's worth checking for a similar policy/arrangement. Check your local auto parts store. In most of the states, if a business sells oil/oil change products they are required to accept oil for recycle. Let the solvents flash and recycle accordingly.

Your governments and citizens seem more environmentally conscience than most so I'd expect policies and access to be at least as good as down here.
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  #33  
Old 07-07-2022, 06:35 AM
HFS HFS is offline
 
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Location: Lemoore, CA
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Default Residual Oil in Filter At Oil Change

Can users please tell me how you deal with the residual oil inside the housing at oil change?

Thank you - HFS
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  #34  
Old 07-07-2022, 08:27 AM
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jneves jneves is offline
 
Join Date: Aug 2021
Location: Livermore, CA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rick_A View Post
For those of you using the S15 version of the filter, I know you have to use the special tool that comes with the filter.

How does the installation and removal compare with a standard Champion/Tempest filter - specifically, the space between the firewall and filter?

I thinking about pro's and con's of the Challenger version vs the S15 model.

Thanks
Much easier, the filter plus tool is still not as deep as the Champ, Temp filters. It's a much easier process for me. I always had a hard time with the Champ and Temp due to the clearance to my firewall. Now with the K&P, all is much more simple.
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  #35  
Old 07-07-2022, 08:32 AM
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bjdecker bjdecker is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HFS View Post
Can users please tell me how you deal with the residual oil inside the housing at oil change?

Thank you - HFS
Clean it up/out with mineral spirits, paint thinner, jet A, kerosene...you get the idea.

Dispose of the solvent from above into the waste oil from your oil change...
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  #36  
Old 07-07-2022, 08:44 AM
BH1166 BH1166 is offline
 
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BJ much oil in the filter after oil drained? Much of a mess when removed ?
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  #37  
Old 07-07-2022, 08:48 AM
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Dan 57 Dan 57 is offline
 
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For those interested in the cleaning procedure, have a look at that YT from K&P Engineering:
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=YvsFN3PMRGE


Anybody in the EU could also order from these guys in the UK, had prompt and good service from them
https://speedlinemoto.co.uk/product.php?productid=286
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  #38  
Old 07-07-2022, 08:57 AM
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bjdecker bjdecker is offline
 
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Originally Posted by BH1166 View Post
BJ much oil in the filter after oil drained? Much of a mess when removed ?
No messier than a 48110-1...I'd say it contains about 4-6oz, be prepared to dump the contents into a plastic trash bag, or whatever you use to catch the dribbles from your normal oil change.

It weighs less, dimensionally smaller, and it easier to maneuver than the 48110-1; remove it, dump it out, remove the element, clean off the magnet, soak/wash/slosh the filter element in your favorite solvent (Not Toluene, MEK, or Acetone...just good old kerosene, JetA, paint thinner) -- look for chunks. Let it drip dry, air dry, put a new o-ring on (if it looks like you need one), reassemble...go fly...
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  #39  
Old 07-07-2022, 10:07 AM
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Ironflight Ironflight is offline
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Location: Dayton, NV
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bjdecker View Post
No messier than a 48110-1...I'd say it contains about 4-6oz, be prepared to dump the contents into a plastic trash bag, or whatever you use to catch the dribbles from your normal oil change.

It weighs less, dimensionally smaller, and it easier to maneuver than the 48110-1; remove it, dump it out, remove the element, clean off the magnet, soak/wash/slosh the filter element in your favorite solvent (Not Toluene, MEK, or Acetone...just good old kerosene, JetA, paint thinner) -- look for chunks. Let it drip dry, air dry, put a new o-ring on (if it looks like you need one), reassemble...go fly...
What goes around, comes around …. This is pretty much the exact procedure every mechanic used when all engines had oil screens instead of spin-on, disposable filters back in “the day”….and yes, I am dating myself when I say that all my early airplanes had screens instead of filters.

It’s not rocket science….

Paul
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Last edited by Ironflight : 07-07-2022 at 01:54 PM.
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  #40  
Old 07-07-2022, 01:11 PM
gasman gasman is offline
 
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Every shop should have a 2 gallon bucket 1/2 full of kitty litter to clean up oil and fuel spills. You can let the oil left in the housing drain into the bucketand then wipe out with a paper towel.

Or you could just leave it alone... it's no different than the entire surface of the sump.

Dish soap and hot water works well. Try this experiment....

Take a jar and pour in a teaspoon of engine oil. Now, a teaspoon of dish soap. Fill 1/2 way with hot tap water. gently agitate for 30 seconds. Lay out a few layers of newspaper and dump out the liquid on the newspaper. TRY to find the oil. Take a paper towel and wipe out the jar. TRY to find the oil.
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