RV-7/7a Plan Gottcha's

Mike S · #1 12-18-2014, 10:09 AM

Starting a thread.

Here is a link to a spreadsheet of gotcha's that may be useful.

Thanks to Allen for this.

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets...QZg/edit#gid=0

wirejock · #2 12-18-2014, 03:41 PM

Awesome sauce. Thank you Mike. I'll kick it off.
When you build the W414 aileron hinge bracket. The plans call for flush head on the outboard side. Put them in the other way. Flush head on the inboard side. Otherwise the shop head can become a clearance problem.

KJBSouth · #3 12-21-2014, 04:13 PM

There are factory punched holes not shown on the drawing. Read results of a call to Vans at the following link.

http://www.vansairforce.com/communit...d.php?t=120788

wjb · #4 12-21-2014, 09:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wirejock

Awesome sauce. Thank you Mike. I'll kick it off.
When you build the W414 aileron hinge bracket. The plans call for flush head on the outboard side. Put them in the other way. Flush head on the inboard side. Otherwise the shop head can become a clearance problem.

FYI ... from Sterling earlier in the year ...

The RV-7 Aileron brackets will both have the rivets flush on the outboard side of the assembly.
Sterling

On 9 Jan 2014 at 0:15, William Bencze wrote:

HI Vans, I'm putting together the outboard aileron brackets for my -7and have a question about which side to put the flush heads on ... It seems that the note from dwg 10A, W-413 assy was inadvertently duplicated for W-414 assy, implying that the flush heads of the AN426 rivets should be on the outboard side (text is the same as for W-413, including the call-outs for the W-413 components).It would seem that the flush heads should be on the inboard side of the W-414 assy to avoid any interference with the aileron after installation. See the red markup on the photo below. Which is the proper side?

Thanks much, Bill Bencze Builder 74152

RV7A Flyer · #5 12-21-2014, 10:16 PM

DWG 39 F-631D and C angles...very easy to misread the plans and make them wrong (e.g., backwards, upside down, what have you). Ask me how I know this.

OLDSAM · #6 12-25-2014, 10:44 AM

Checking Dwg 9, the outboard end of the aileron leading edge skin has to clear the W-414-C angle and its protruding rivets, which are well inboard of the rivets back near the bearing, so would not expect the shop ends of these rivets to be a factor if on the inboard side, with the flush head on the outside. I'm hoping so, as mine are built per plans, but I'm not to the point of mounting the ailerons yet.

High_Flyer · #7 01-06-2015, 01:33 AM

When building the Tip Up Canopy Release mechanism be careful at the C-621 and C-622 dimensions on drawing 47:

The length of both parts are shown between the holes and is not the total length as is usually the case elsewhere on the plans.
If you make these dimensions the total length you will end up 1 inch short.

Don't ask me how I know... It seems I'm not the only one to have done this mistake.

Alain.

Smilin' Jack · #8 01-06-2015, 05:09 AM

If your building a 7 with a quick build fuselage.
One day I was sitting on a stool and wondering what the single hole was near the trailing edge of the wing on the fuselage.

I looked everywhere. Then found out it was an index hole for the step installation... This bugged me for a couple of days.
Jack

Stalldog · #9 01-06-2015, 05:19 AM

Don't trust the dimensions shown on the plans as they may end up being too short for some builds. Even though they are given in 1/32's! If you want to build these before fitting the wings to the fuselage then finish the wing end and cut the tubes longer than shown (search the threads for recommended extra lengths) and finish the fuse end later. Otherwise, you might be ordering more pushrod tubes and/or rod ends.

Some fit as shown, but others end up too short. No good answer as to why except that these are all built a little different despite match drilled parts.

OLDSAM · #10 01-10-2015, 11:52 AM

It is correct that the standard practice in dimensioning a part such as this is to show the furthest dimension from the part as an overall, with shorter dimensions running "inside", or closer to the part, from there. The exception is when the interior dimension is more critical than the overall, which appears to be the case here. If the part was dimensioned overall, with holes dimensioned 1/4" from the end, the error in the actual distance between the holes could be off by as much as the sum of three measuring, marking, and cutting/drilling operation errors, instead of one. It is likely, but not guaranteed, that some of the 3 possible errors would partially cancel each other out, but no need to take the chance.