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  #21  
Old 11-22-2021, 01:36 PM
Schooner69 Schooner69 is offline
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Posts: 108
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dave_091

I don't have a picture but the duct tape is placed vertically between the upper and lower cowls. I've found that a couple of inches on either half is sufficient. In six years, there's never been any 'loosening' or loss of tape...
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  #22  
Old 11-22-2021, 01:39 PM
gasman gasman is offline
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Sonoma County
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rv8ch View Post
Based on what I'm reading, it looks like there are several things that are important for colder weather operations and my questions about a solution that does not require higher heat:
  1. Remove the water from the oil - engine dryer?
  2. Ensure that the oil will flow - multigrade oil like 15w-50?
  3. Encourage lead scavenging - run fuel with no lead?
Engine dryer will not remove water from oil. Water is heavier than oil, and therefore settles down when not being pumped (mixed) with the oil.
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  #23  
Old 11-22-2021, 02:55 PM
hoyden hoyden is offline
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Minneapolis, MN
Posts: 77
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Firewall side seemed easier but I wondered if it would make a difference. I may put some aluminum tape on engine side to block it off and see how that affects temperature.
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  #24  
Old 11-22-2021, 05:08 PM
BillL BillL is offline
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Central IL
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hoyden View Post
Firewall side seemed easier but I wondered if it would make a difference. I may put some aluminum tape on engine side to block it off and see how that affects temperature.
Good idea, I have no issues down to -10F or so maybe below that, I just don't remember. Mine will stay on the vernatherm and 180F at those temps. My friend had his shutter on the back and had to tape his front side in winter. We regularly get -10F and sometimes -20F
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  #25  
Old 11-22-2021, 05:56 PM
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avrojockey avrojockey is offline
 
Join Date: Aug 2019
Location: Appleton, WI
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gasman View Post
Engine dryer will not remove water from oil. Water is heavier than oil, and therefore settles down when not being pumped (mixed) with the oil.
I believe the concern is water's escape from emulsification through thermal cycles and thus internal corrosion once parts loose their oil film from inactivity. In that case, the dryer would do the trick.

Anyways...I commonly fly at the same temps of the OP, and water never shows up in my oil analysis, so I think it's a moot point.
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  #26  
Old 11-22-2021, 06:38 PM
rockwoodrv9 rockwoodrv9 is offline
 
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Meridian ID, Aspen CO, Okemos MI
Posts: 3,049
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Anyone tried one of these? Heated concrete blanket?
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08GS2B79R...dDbGljaz10cnVl
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  #27  
Old 11-22-2021, 06:50 PM
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GalinHdz GalinHdz is offline
 
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Location: KSGJ / TJBQ
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hoyden View Post
Before starting a science fair experiment I wanted to ask how others keep their temps up on cold days.
Do what I did. Move to a warmer state.

Sorry, I just couldn't resist.
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  #28  
Old 11-23-2021, 01:02 AM
hoyden hoyden is offline
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Minneapolis, MN
Posts: 77
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Heh, Galin! It's easier for me to stay warm in the winter than cool in the summer. I grew up in the south and migrated north after leaving school. The plane deals with the warmer weather better than the pilot.

I'm going to try tape across the cowl inlet using a triple-thick 2" wide layer of blue painters tape. I used 200 mph duct tape years ago and the residue is still on my gear leg fairing.

Last edited by hoyden : 11-23-2021 at 01:04 AM.
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  #29  
Old 11-23-2021, 11:11 PM
sblack sblack is offline
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Montreal
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lr172 View Post
Lyc recommends OT no lower than 160. Not sure how big of a deal it is to run at 140 or 150. I suspect that the only issue, assuming a 20w50 oil is used, is that moisture removal from the oil is slower at lower temps. Both of my planes run in the 160 range in the winter months. Doesn't concern me. I know the oil gets less viscous as the temps rise, so it is possible that Lyc thinks that puts more strain on the oil pump. It is likely that they have a good reason for setting this recommendation and therefore good to take steps to get your temps there or close to it. Also possible that it is an issue like running LOP, where they recommend against it, not because it is bad per se, but because of other reasons. I think by now it is safe to say that running LOP on a Lycoming is not bad for the engine, yet they still recommend against it.

I fly a good amount in the winter and often see CHTs in the upper 200's. Too me, this is good not bad, I don't know the low end limit for CHT's, but suspect it is well below 250 and that would be for engine performance, not potential damage or wear. If it were of concern for engine longevity, I am confident that a low end recommendation would be found in the Operators manual, just like the low end for OT. There is no reference.

For decades, planes didn't have CHT instruments. Things seemed to work fine in all different climates.

Larry
I know several cases where guys had stuck valves. The engines shook like crazy and lost power and scared the **** out them. They had to do the rooe trick and clean the valve stems, and in some cases their shorts. So Iím not sure that things worked fine. The claim is being made by Mike Busche, based on some evidence, that low chts can contribute to deposits on the valve stems that can lead to sticking valves. I havít seen any hard evidence that this is not the case. Just opinions.
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  #30  
Old 11-24-2021, 02:27 AM
hoyden hoyden is offline
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Minneapolis, MN
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I see two issues: running LOP and fuel mixture. I've had low CHTs ever since I learned how to run LOP from John Deakin's "Mixture Magic" Pelican's Perch article. That was about 21 years ago.

I remember reading John's article when I was still flying a C-150. I understood the limits of the red knob with a carburetor. When I bought Athena (RV-6, CS, FI) from Teri Jantzi in 2020 I already knew I had new red knob options.

I wonder what role, if any, mixture plays. My Savvy analysis never dings me for low CHTs, and as previously noted, gets high praise. I borescope the cylinders and valves at each annual and so far I have not seen any bad news.
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