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  #131  
Old 01-19-2020, 09:29 AM
Builder7A Builder7A is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2020
Location: Schererville, IN
Posts: 1
Default Temporary wing mounting

Having problems inserting wing spar into fuselage center section. Seems to be a body fit of spar width to fuselage center section plus wing skin to fuselage skin interference
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  #132  
Old 01-19-2020, 02:04 PM
wirejock's Avatar
wirejock wirejock is offline
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Estes Park, CO
Posts: 4,769
Default Wing fit

Quote:
Originally Posted by Builder7A View Post
Having problems inserting wing spar into fuselage center section. Seems to be a body fit of spar width to fuselage center section plus wing skin to fuselage skin interference
Gavin
Welcome. I think. First post is a wing fit problem? Are you having trouble or reporting a "Gotcha" for others?
__________________
Larry Larson
Estes Park, CO
wirejock at yahoo dot com
Donated 12/01/2021, plus a little extra.
RV-7A #73391, N511RV reserved (3,000+ hours)
Empennage, wings, fuse, finishing kit done. Working FWF
Disclaimer
I cannot be, nor will I be, held responsible if you try to do the same things I do and it does not work and/or causes you loss, injury, or even death in the process.
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  #133  
Old 02-02-2020, 05:28 PM
wirejock's Avatar
wirejock wirejock is offline
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Estes Park, CO
Posts: 4,769
Default Roll Bar Bolts

I'm suprised you couldn't hear my cursing all the way from Estes Park.
The Aft bolt (1/4") on each side of the 7 roll bar has a washer and nut installed under the longeron. It has a special aluminum shim then washer then nut. It was easy with the fuse upside down but right side up, gravity is not helping. Somehow this has to be done in a space barely big enough to get my catcher's mit fingers in the space. The aluminum shim stays put pretty well without persuasion, but the washer wants to fall off before the nut can be slipped into place.*
I needed a trick. Neodymium magnet to the rescue. This time two of the uncoated magnets. Place the magnet on the bolt head. Slip a washer on the bolt and it stays put. Slip the nut in the space. Say a prayer to the Nut Gods. Stick your toungue out so words don't offend same Gods, then gently rotate the bolt with an open end wrench (magnets are stuck on the bolt) till it grabs a couple threads.
Yes, I've heard of builders glueing the assembly then turning the bolt into the part, but one mistake there and a cross thread nightmare ruins the day. After years of wrenching in cars, I learned to always use human fingers to feel the threads engage properly.
__________________
Larry Larson
Estes Park, CO
wirejock at yahoo dot com
Donated 12/01/2021, plus a little extra.
RV-7A #73391, N511RV reserved (3,000+ hours)
Empennage, wings, fuse, finishing kit done. Working FWF
Disclaimer
I cannot be, nor will I be, held responsible if you try to do the same things I do and it does not work and/or causes you loss, injury, or even death in the process.
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  #134  
Old 02-04-2020, 12:34 AM
jerryf jerryf is offline
 
Join Date: Aug 2017
Location: San Diego
Posts: 14
Default

Larry you need to go down to the Wheel and have a cold one.
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  #135  
Old 02-04-2020, 08:01 AM
goatflieg's Avatar
goatflieg goatflieg is offline
 
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: Clarkston, MI
Posts: 836
Default

Used the magnet trick more than once. The left aft baffle for my IO-360 has a lower inside bolt/spacer/nut securing it to the case. I used a zip-tie/hose loop to hold the spacer in place while the bolt was inserted, then used a magnet wand to hold the nut/washer and screw the bolt into them.
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Martin J Filiatrault
Clarkston, MI
RV-8 #83507 - registered; final assembly continues; engine remounted.
Builder websites:
http://goatflieg.blogspot.com/
http://www.mykitlog.com/goatflieg/
YouTube Channel:
https://www.youtube.com/user/goatflieg
Dues paid for 2022... extra payment included for psychological therapeutic services rendered.

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  #136  
Old 02-04-2020, 09:51 AM
wirejock's Avatar
wirejock wirejock is offline
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Estes Park, CO
Posts: 4,769
Default Beer

Quote:
Originally Posted by jerryf View Post
Larry you need to go down to the Wheel and have a cold one.
I did! Sort of. We have four craft breweries now. We tried out one, new to us yesterday. They have a special Mondays. Bring in a vinyl album for 50% off a beer. Excellent brews and the owners were playing with new flavors so the passed us samples. It was fun.
__________________
Larry Larson
Estes Park, CO
wirejock at yahoo dot com
Donated 12/01/2021, plus a little extra.
RV-7A #73391, N511RV reserved (3,000+ hours)
Empennage, wings, fuse, finishing kit done. Working FWF
Disclaimer
I cannot be, nor will I be, held responsible if you try to do the same things I do and it does not work and/or causes you loss, injury, or even death in the process.
Reply With Quote
  #137  
Old 02-04-2020, 10:56 AM
N914DH N914DH is offline
 
Join Date: May 2016
Location: Senoia, GA
Posts: 2
Default

Larry...these RVs are definitely designed to increase our 4 letter vocabulary with certain bolt/screw, washer and nut placements. My comment to a local RV builder was to suggest marriage to an 80# Philippino woman with tiny fingers. His reply was ?mailorderbride.com?. This group always gives me lots of laughter in addition to the amazing camaraderie!
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  #138  
Old 02-04-2020, 12:45 PM
rightrudder rightrudder is offline
 
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Laguna Hills, CA
Posts: 1,853
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by wirejock View Post
I'm suprised you couldn't hear my cursing all the way from Estes Park.
The Aft bolt (1/4") on each side of the 7 roll bar has a washer and nut installed under the longeron. It has a special aluminum shim then washer then nut. It was easy with the fuse upside down but right side up, gravity is not helping. Somehow this has to be done in a space barely big enough to get my catcher's mit fingers in the space. The aluminum shim stays put pretty well without persuasion, but the washer wants to fall off before the nut can be slipped into place.*
I needed a trick. Neodymium magnet to the rescue. This time two of the uncoated magnets. Place the magnet on the bolt head. Slip a washer on the bolt and it stays put. Slip the nut in the space. Say a prayer to the Nut Gods. Stick your toungue out so words don't offend same Gods, then gently rotate the bolt with an open end wrench (magnets are stuck on the bolt) till it grabs a couple threads.
Yes, I've heard of builders glueing the assembly then turning the bolt into the part, but one mistake there and a cross thread nightmare ruins the day. After years of wrenching in cars, I learned to always use human fingers to feel the threads engage properly.
Yeah, the frustration factor with those nuts/washers is right up there with washers for the control stick linkage! The ones under the slider rails are a challenge too.

My solution was to super-glue the washers to the nuts, and stick those to a piece of L-shaped scrap aluminum with double-sided foam tape. The aluminum scrap makes a nice handle.
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Doug
RV-9A "slider"--sold in July 2021
Flew to Osh in 2017, 2018 & 2019!
Donation made for 2021
You haven't seen a tree until you've seen its shadow from the sky -- Amelia Earhart
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  #139  
Old 06-24-2020, 06:51 PM
Draker's Avatar
Draker Draker is offline
 
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: Livermore, CA
Posts: 575
Default Side Skirt gotcha

Not really a "gotcha" but a reminder to look closely at the plans:

When building your tip-up canopy "side skirts", remember to observe the 1 17/32" measurement from the aft skirt edge to the aft most column of rivets. I instead followed the "APPROX 1 1/2" SPACING" note and just kind of winged it. Only when I was about to match drill the skin to the canopy frame did I notice that the aft most row of rivets were too close to the aft edge of the skirt and could not be riveted.

Also, another case of whether or not to believe the plans:

At least on my canopy, in order to match up nicely with the front C-702 skin, the front edges of my skirts needed to be 3" and the aft edges need to be 2-3/4", with a gentle slope aft-to-forward in order to make a nice clean line from the fuselage skin. I suppose I could alternatively cut 1/4" off the top of the canopy skin "ears" in order to keep the side skirts rectangular. Don't think it matters.
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Ryan Drake
Livermore, CA
https://stiletto.smugmug.com/RV7
Donated 12/31/2020
RV-7A (N12VD): Finishing final tasks for engine-start and airworthiness!
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  #140  
Old 12-11-2020, 12:31 AM
Draker's Avatar
Draker Draker is offline
 
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: Livermore, CA
Posts: 575
Default

This one's more of a heads-up and only a "gotcha" if you started out planning to use the "old style" nosegear but then switched to the new elastomer-based gear mount.

For the elastomer gear, Vans changed their recommended location for the throttle cable firewall passthrough. So don't use the old hole location (bottom center of firewall), use the new location in the firewall recess:



I had already drilled my firewall passthrough using the old location, and decided to try to use it. It eventually worked, but I had to 1. buy a larger cu$tom-length throttle cable from Spruce and 2. unnaturally snake it around the new mount.



If I did it over again I'd just use the new recommended location in the recess.
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Ryan Drake
Livermore, CA
https://stiletto.smugmug.com/RV7
Donated 12/31/2020
RV-7A (N12VD): Finishing final tasks for engine-start and airworthiness!
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