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Plane-Power alternator repalcement suggestions?

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dbier99

Well Known Member
I need to replace my (recently acquired) RV6's alternator which failed in-flight today after showing some output fluctuation on a recent flight. It currently has a Plane-Power 99-1012 alternator that lasted 437 Hobbs hours (38 months). My son and I have seen numerous reviews lately that indicate Plane-Power alternators are not as good as they used to be, so we're open to better quality options - BUT want to avoid any major hassles with fit/installation of an alternate brand.

While we're open to all suggestions, we've read good things about B&C (and recently installed their starter). Visiting their website it looks like their LX60 (https://bandc.com/product/lx60-alternator-60-amps-homebuilt/#alternator) may be the appropriate model for our RV6. However, it indicates it does NOT have an internal voltage regulator (the Plane-Power does). Not sure how much of a hassle it would be to add the needed external voltage regulator.

Bottom line, I'm wondering if anyone here has experience replacing a Plane-Power 99-1012 alternator with another/better brand - and does anyone have experience with B&C alternators?
 

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Yes,you do need mount the external VR. Just do it and this will end your issue today and likely forever. Plenty have replaced PP with B&C. 60 amp is a plenty even for older bulbs, strobes etc. Now go getcha one. Start looking where to put VR ( cold side of firewall).

Good luck
 
There seems to be a general consensus that B&C makes a good product. They’re also more expensive than Plane Power. Many complaints about the PP design seem to center on the quality of the electrical connections for the field current wire. You might check yours. Also, PP was sold to, I think, Hartzel, not too long ago. They claim to have made improvements. Are current PP ones lasting longer? I don’t know.
Installing the external B&C regulator on the cold side of the firewall, and wiring it, should be straightforward, assuming you have a spot that is not too hard to access.
 
Appreciate the quick replies - but need some additional advice as to whether the B&C LX60 is the proper replacement for the Plane-Power 99-1012 - and if so does it use the same mounts or would new brackets/fabrication be required?

As for the Voltage Regulator - what is involved? How big/small is it? Does it need a separate ground or 12V supply from the battery? I'm mechanically inclined but the electrical side of the plane is still rather new to me. My son is building hours in our RV so we want to gte it back in the air (safely) later this week.
 
I’d suggest a call to B&C telling them the model PP, engine, etc, and they’ll tell you what alternator and regulator you need. Scale drawings on their web site will show you the physical sizes. The regulator will need buss voltage, ground, and almost always a field control (on-off) switch and fuse or CB. You probably can re-use the power, CB, switch, that you have now.
 
Dave, that looks like a pretty recent alternator - the fastest and easiest is to call HET and see if they can help you replace or fix it. I had a problem with my alternator a couple of years ago, which turned out to be 100% my fault, and they gave me excellent support.

Another option to consider is the https://monkworkz.com/ Monkworkz generator - looks like a solid product with good support, and other advantages.
 
I did the conversion to B&C

The 1998 edition PP 60amp alternator on my 6 developed a habit of dropping offline when hot. Last year I replaced it with a 40amp B&C.

Mounting the new LR3C-14 regulator behind the panel and re-wiring was straight forward enough. What was notable in the conversion was that the belt and adjusting bracket supplied with the new alternator were both too long and would have put the new alternator in contact with the cowl if used. So I cut about an inch off the bracket, drilled a new mounting hole and re-used the existing belt. It all works flawlessly now.

Also notable is that the brace between the alternator and starter is not used with the B&C alternator.

Incidentally the old PP alternator was mechanically sound and with a new internal VR it lives on in a mates RV7. Despite the expense, I’m more than happy and have greater confidence in the B&C alternator.
 
Malndi said:
The 1998 edition PP 60amp alternator on my 6 developed a habit of dropping offline when hot. Last year I replaced it with a 40amp B&C.

Mounting the new LR3C-14 regulator behind the panel and re-wiring was straight forward enough. What was notable in the conversion was that the belt and adjusting bracket supplied with the new alternator were both too long and would have put the new alternator in contact with the cowl if used. So I cut about an inch off the bracket, drilled a new mounting hole and re-used the existing belt. It all works flawlessly now.

Also notable is that the brace between the alternator and starter is not used with the B&C alternator.

Incidentally the old PP alternator was mechanically sound and with a new internal VR it lives on in a mates RV7. Despite the expense, I’m more than happy and have greater confidence in the B&C alternator.
Click to expand...
Appreciate the details regarding installing the B&C. Although I'd like to make the change - I need to get this plane back up in service ASAP (son is building hours) - and doing a simple swap this time around sounds like my better option (i.e versus external regulator, mount modification and possibly removing prop for new belt - which we replaced 2 months ago). But I wouldn't haven't known that without all the detailed replies!
 
An intermittent Plane Power may be due to fretted plug contacts. I'm just sayin'. It's common enough.

Plane Power was offering replacements if it is a rear bearing bore problem. Sure won't hurt to ask. Clamp the pulley in a vice, rock the case. Any freeplay is a bearing bore issue.

The blast tube in the photo is useless. Air enters the alternator case at both ends. It exits as shown, after flowing over the regulator assembly at the back, and the loops of the stator windings.
.
 

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rv8ch said:
Dave, that looks like a pretty recent alternator - the fastest and easiest is to call HET and see if they can help you replace or fix it. I had a problem with my alternator a couple of years ago, which turned out to be 100% my fault, and they gave me excellent support.

Another option to consider is the https://monkworkz.com/ Monkworkz generator - looks like a solid product with good support, and other advantages.
Click to expand...

Sorry - but what is HET? Is that the new owner of Plane-Power (Hartzell)? The alternator is 38 months old with about 430 Hobbs hours - which seems premature for failure but so goes it.
 
UPDATE!

UPDATE! I called Plane-Power (now owned by Hartell) and after describing the symptoms of my alternator failure the tech there beleives it's highly likely that the attached voltage regulator failed. Even though I'm 14 months out of warranty they are sending me a replacement VR free of charge! I'm grateful for their accomodation - and maybe it's a sign that Hartell's ownership is indeed going to improve what I've read had been a declining situation at Plane-Power prior to the acquisition.
 
dbier99 said:
Sorry - but what is HET? Is that the new owner of Plane-Power (Hartzell)? The alternator is 38 months old with about 430 Hobbs hours - which seems premature for failure but so goes it.
Click to expand...

HET -- Hartzell Engine Technologies -- the amalgamation brand of Plane Power, Skytech, etc.
 
DanH said:
The blast tube in the photo is useless. Air enters the alternator case at both ends. It exits as shown, after flowing over the regulator assembly at the back, and the loops of the stator windings.
.
Click to expand...

Looks like placing a blast tube on the front edge of the aft air deflector would be beneficial since it appears that deflector bowl is designed to catch air from the forward direction and divert it into the alternator housing rather than sucking air forward from the hot engine bay. I wondered why they had that deflector shield on the back of the PP alternators.
 
DanH said:
An intermittent Plane Power may be due to fretted plug contacts. I'm just sayin'. It's common enough.

Plane Power was offering replacements if it is a rear bearing bore problem. Sure won't hurt to ask. Clamp the pulley in a vice, rock the case. Any freeplay is a bearing bore issue.

The blast tube in the photo is useless. Air enters the alternator case at both ends. It exits as shown, after flowing over the regulator assembly at the back, and the loops of the stator windings.
.
Click to expand...

Thanks for pointing out the blast tube issue. I will adjust its location. Will also check the plug contacts. ALSO, I just called PlanePower again and they indicated they did not have any rebuild/fix kits for the rear bearings. Maybe that was only a temporary offering or not for my model unit - but was definitely worth a shot.
 
jliltd said:
Looks like placing a blast tube on the front edge of the aft air deflector would be beneficial since it appears that deflector bowl is designed to catch air from the forward direction and divert it into the alternator housing rather than sucking air forward from the hot engine bay. I wondered why they had that deflector shield on the back of the PP alternators.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the suggestion regarding the blast tube location - will definitely make that change.
 
rv8ch said:
Another option to consider is the https://monkworkz.com/ Monkworkz generator - looks like a solid product with good support, and other advantages.
Click to expand...
That vacuum generator is an interesting option! Unortunately, given my tight repair timeframe now - it's not a viable option for me now but I'll keep the link handy for future reference.
 
PP Alt

My PP alternator failed after only a couple of hours (runaway amps blowing the field fuse). I took it to a local stater/alternator shop and they found the regulator and a rectifier blown. They repaired it with regular auto parts for $100. Over 700hrs on it now and still working fine. Might try that to have as a spare, unless they want the old one back.
 
RV7 To Go said:
My PP alternator failed after only a couple of hours (runaway amps blowing the field fuse). I took it to a local stater/alternator shop and they found the regulator and a rectifier blown. They repaired it with regular auto parts for $100. Over 700hrs on it now and still working fine. Might try that to have as a spare, unless they want the old one back.
Click to expand...
Good option! PP is sending me out a courtesy replacement voltage regulator at no charge even though mine is 2 months past warranty.
 
jliltd said:
Looks like placing a blast tube on the front edge of the aft air deflector would be beneficial since it appears that deflector bowl is designed to catch air from the forward direction and divert it into the alternator housing rather than sucking air forward from the hot engine bay. I wondered why they had that deflector shield on the back of the PP alternators.
Click to expand...

Naaa, not an air scoop.

Aim the blast tube at the slots in the rear cover, or better yet, make up an enclosure and pipe the air into it. Assuming of course you feel it needs a blast tube. Those with a tube blasting the wrong way haven't actually had one...

In fairness, lower temperature at the rear cover might help the bearing cavity issue. A BillL has noted, the rear bearing requires a slip fit in the cover bore to accommodate axial thermal expansion of the rotor, but the stock setup here doesn't have an expansion ring on the bearing OD. So, if the rear cover gets hot, the aluminum bore expands radially more than the steel bearing, creating freeplay and wear.
 

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Heat sink cooling...

My PP60 has over 2,800 hours on it and I just replaced the brushes and voltage regulator assembly for general preventive maintenance.

I have always had a bast tube on the regulator heat sink and my pulleys are well aligned. I think there is a bit of luck on the rest...

PN 11-1043 Hartzell Plane Power Regulator
Includes the brushes, Available at Spruce
 

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[email protected] said:
My PP60 has over 2,800 hours on it and I just replaced the brushes and voltage regulator assembly for general preventive maintenance.

I have always had a bast tube on the regulator heat sink and my pulleys are well aligned. I think there is a bit of luck on the rest...
Click to expand...
Did the brushes come with the voltage regulator or did you have to find another source for them?
 
and….that’s the start of the list of separate issues -
As Dan mentioned - connector issues, then these are other events I know first hand of here -
FS14B
Bearings turning in housing
Splined coupling also completely disintegrated
60 amp PP
Cooling shroud cracked
Internal regulator failed
Stator wiring broken
All the above happened to various RV’s with up to ~400 hrs with the earliest failure being 195 hrs YMMV.
 
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B&C vs Plane power

dbier99 said:
I need to replace my (recently acquired) RV6's alternator which failed in-flight today after showing some output fluctuation on a recent flight. It currently has a Plane-Power 99-1012 alternator that lasted 437 Hobbs hours (38 months). My son and I have seen numerous reviews lately that indicate Plane-Power alternators are not as good as they used to be, so we're open to better quality options - BUT want to avoid any major hassles with fit/installation of an alternate brand.

While we're open to all suggestions, we've read good things about B&C (and recently installed their starter). Visiting their website it looks like their LX60 (https://bandc.com/product/lx60-alternator-60-amps-homebuilt/#alternator) may be the appropriate model for our RV6. However, it indicates it does NOT have an internal voltage regulator (the Plane-Power does). Not sure how much of a hassle it would be to add the needed external voltage regulator.

Bottom line, I'm wondering if anyone here has experience replacing a Plane-Power 99-1012 alternator with another/better brand - and does anyone have experience with B&C alternators?
Click to expand...

B&C is is a blueprinted version of an automotive style alternator its balanced and bulletproof, their crowbar voltage regulator is awesome, they work good last a long time. Each one is gone trough to make sure its balanced and will provide reliable service . While I hope Hartzell makes some improvements as they own the line if you are electrically dependent buy a B&C
 
https://vansairforce.net/community/showthread.php?t=138805

Poll has been dormant for a few years. I suspect the gap has widened further.
You only have to read a page or two at random to get the idea.
Saving yourself some negligible amount of $ by installing a PP seems questionable to me. Especially in the age of more electrical dependency.

I don’t understand why Vans recommends them. I don’t understand why people install them.
 
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[email protected] said:
My PP60 has over 2,800 hours on it and I just replaced the brushes and voltage regulator assembly for general preventive maintenance.

I have always had a bast tube on the regulator heat sink and my pulleys are well aligned. I think there is a bit of luck on the rest...
Click to expand...

Stephen -- thanks for a good news story on the EI60 PP. I repaired one with a stator failure (~400hr) and projected the brushes would last beyond the book TBO of the engine. The ball bearings have outstanding grease and, if still viscous feeling on rotation, should still be good. They might live 3-4000 hrs (maybe more) if the housings are not damaged. They are not heavily loaded.

This PP has a good design ( new SRE bearing notwithstanding) and parts, but the QC to consistently produce the design is lacking.
 
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BillL said:
Stephen -- thanks for a good news story on the EI60 PP. I repaired one with a stator failure (~400hr) and projected the brushes would last beyond the book TBO of the engine. The ball bearings have outstanding grease and, if still viscous feeling on rotation, should still be good.
Click to expand...
Where did you get parts for the repair? PP claims they don't sell rebuild parts. ALSO, did you add grease to the bearings - if so, any particular grade/spec?
 
First PP quit about 200 hours (stator), Hartzell warrantied with a new one.

About 200 hours on the new one before a high voltage event because of a failed voltage regulator/brush assembly, bought a new one through Spruce.

About 250 (450TT) on the new brushes and the PP quit again. The brushes/regulator were fine but local alt shop diagnosed broken stator but wouldn’t repair. It was “notchy” when turning by hand.

Really wanted to use something different, but too many things with a higher priority so ordered a new $1200 PP to bolt on and go. So Painful………

New PP didn’t work, 12volts at the alt plug but as DanH documented the center terminal pin on the plug was slightly opened up. Carefully squeezed it tighter and working now. I had potted the plug/wires with RTV since new. Spruce has the same faulty plug for sale for $130, I bought this equivalent at Napa for $12 that seems to be a much better connector.

https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/ECHEC2444
 
crabandy said:
First PP quit about 200 hours (stator), Hartzell warrantied with a new one.

About 200 hours on the new one before a high voltage event because of a failed voltage regulator/brush assembly, bought a new one through Spruce.

About 250 (450TT) on the new brushes and the PP quit again. The brushes/regulator were fine but local alt shop diagnosed broken stator but wouldn’t repair. It was “notchy” when turning by hand.

Really wanted to use something different, but too many things with a higher priority so ordered a new $1200 PP to bolt on and go. So Painful………

New PP didn’t work, 12volts at the alt plug but as DanH documented the center terminal pin on the plug was slightly opened up. Carefully squeezed it tighter and working now. I had potted the plug/wires with RTV since new. Spruce has the same faulty plug for sale for $130, I bought this equivalent at Napa for $12 that seems to be a much better connector.

https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/ECHEC2444
Click to expand...
OUCH - that's a painful story! I too am pressed for time, so even though PP sent a free replacement Voltage Regl/brushes to repair current alternator (they suspect that is the issue) - I ordered a replacement Alt from Spruce.
However, I'm planning to take a hard look at the connector issue and appreciate the link to the NAPA option.
 
crabandy said:
First PP quit about 200 hours (stator), Hartzell warrantied with a new one.

About 200 hours on the new one before a high voltage event because of a failed voltage regulator/brush assembly, bought a new one through Spruce.

About 250 (450TT) on the new brushes and the PP quit again. The brushes/regulator were fine but local alt shop diagnosed broken stator but wouldn’t repair. It was “notchy” when turning by hand.

Really wanted to use something different, but too many things with a higher priority so ordered a new $1200 PP to bolt on and go. So Painful………

New PP didn’t work, 12volts at the alt plug but as DanH documented the center terminal pin on the plug was slightly opened up. Carefully squeezed it tighter and working now. I had potted the plug/wires with RTV since new. Spruce has the same faulty plug for sale for $130, I bought this equivalent at Napa for $12 that seems to be a much better connector.

https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/ECHEC2444
Click to expand...

With stories like this one and an internet to make it visible to all, I just don't understand how they sell as many as they do. I have 1000 hours on my reman denso that cost $70.
 
lr172 said:
With stories like this one and an internet to make it visible to all, I just don't understand how they sell as many as they do. I have 1000 hours on my reman denso that cost $70.
Click to expand...
That's incredible! Unfortunately, I need to get the plane back online ASAP for my son's hour building. Does your Denso have an internal/built-in voltage regulator? Also, I'm trying to avoid reworking the mounts currently used for the PP alternator. Any idea how much different your Denso form factor is from the PP version?
 
lr172 said:
With stories like this one and an internet to make it visible to all, I just don't understand how they sell as many as they do. I have 1000 hours on my reman denso that cost $70.
Click to expand...

dbier99 said:
That's incredible! Unfortunately, I need to get the plane back online ASAP for my son's hour building. Does your Denso have an internal/built-in voltage regulator? Also, I'm trying to avoid reworking the mounts currently used for the PP alternator. Any idea how much different your Denso form factor is from the PP version?
Click to expand...

There are many RV's (back in the olden days, nearly all RV's....) that are flying with automotive alternators. A big attraction is being able to buy a replacement at most auto parts stores regardless of where you need one. Of course those who are adamant about using the big-$$ alternators will say that is a good thing because replacements will be needed often. :)

But depending on the mission profile the auto units can be very satisfactory. My RV-6 has been flying since 1999 with inexpensive Denso alternators.
 
AC Delco

I made the first trip after installation of the ACDELCO 3351271 and it worked perfect for 4.5 hours. No issues with installation, in fact the mounting corner doesn’t have to be filed down like the Denso. It looks the same and is all new parts. I now have 250 hours on the AC Delco and no problems, Rock Auto has them, brand new.
 
texdog said:
I made the first trip after installation of the ACDELCO 3351271 and it worked perfect for 4.5 hours. No issues with installation, in fact the mounting corner doesn’t have to be filed down like the Denso. It looks the same and is all new parts. I now have 250 hours on the AC Delco and no problems, Rock Auto has them, brand new.
Click to expand...
Good info! Does it have a built-in voltge regulator or did you have to add it? If you had to add it - what did you use and where did you mount it?
 
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Has anyone yet been able to identify a suitable off-the-shelf auto alternator with overvoltage protection?

Sure seems like it should be out there.
 
dbier99 said:
That's incredible! Unfortunately, I need to get the plane back online ASAP for my son's hour building. Does your Denso have an internal/built-in voltage regulator? Also, I'm trying to avoid reworking the mounts currently used for the PP alternator. Any idea how much different your Denso form factor is from the PP version?
Click to expand...

The one I use (14158) is 50 A and designed to run the same direction as the Lyc (opposite most auto engines) and externally regulated. The 6 has a transpo VR on the firewall (homemade OV circuit) and the 10 has a B&C VR behind the panel. I have bought the run of the mill remans, but prefer to get them directly from Denso when available, as those are basically same as new quality. The VR is an electronic thing with a chip and therefore heat sensitive, especially the cheap off shore stuff that gets put in many remans. It is the most common thing to fail in a denso alt. It is my belief that there is a lot of heat in the area where we install these alt's due to the proximity to the #1 exh header & #2 crossover pipe. WHen installed in modern auto engines, they tend to not be anywhere near that close to the exh AND are usually getting A LOT of cooling airflow from the main fan. Therefore, I prefer externally regulated to get this heat sensitive part into a cooler spot. Both the transpo and the B&C regulators have trimmers for custom setting the running voltage target.

While the PP is a franken-denso with most of the parts being denso quality, they make their own brush/VR assy (see post above for reliability of this part) as well as the rear cover / bearing holder, which is where the stator wires break (they don't seem to bother with securing that wire) and the bearing carrier magically grows in size, due to inferior material. They clearly did a poor job designing these parts and are the ones failing at alarming levels. The remaining weak point is the $130 terminal/plug that seemingly is made with prison labor and something less than 0 quality control, if that is even possible.

B&C was a lot smarter. They just use the ext regulated denso in it's stock form (incredibly high reliability rates) and made their own quality VR that covers all the special stuff we want. Unfortunately that stock denso now costs many times more than it was before putting it in their box. I don't know much about these, so it is possible that they are taking an IR denso and replacing the brush assy used on older Denso's to make it ER. They use a modern denso frame and it wouldn't surprise me that this new frame had no market for ER versions and therefore none were offered. We haven't seen ER alt's in the auto world for at least 2 decades.

Larry
 
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DanH said:
Has anyone yet been able to identify a suitable off-the-shelf auto alternator with overvoltage protection?

Sure seems like it should be out there.
Click to expand...

Never seen one and expect I never will. This is just something that the auto makers are not concerned with. OV in a car is pretty rare and they likely are dealing with it via quality power supply design in the critical components consuming the power. Even less of an issue today with more cars controlling the VR and therefore indirectly the field, through the ECU. If you use an ext regulated alt, it only takes an hour and $5 in components to make an effective OV crowbar circuit using knuckle's design. Just wire it in between the breaker and the VR. Or just buy the B&C VR, which has it built in. It will work on ANY ext regulated alt.
 
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Sorry for such a basic/stupid question - but does the PlanePower alternator with the attached/built-in voltage regulator have over-voltage protection?
 
lr172 said:
If you use an ext regulated alt, it only takes an hour and $5 in components to make an effective OV crowbar circuit using knuckle's design. Just wire it in between the breaker and the VR. Or just buy the B&C VR, which has it built in. It will work on ANY ext regulated alt.
Click to expand...
Great info to know - thanks!
 
dbier99 said:
Sorry for such a basic/stupid question - but does the PlanePower alternator with the attached/built-in voltage regulator have over-voltage protection?
Click to expand...

Yes, that is part of the VR module they designed themselvs. Pro-it has OV protection; Con- it is not a denso made part and only seems to work for 200 hours. I just bought a Tacoma with 175,000 miles and still has the original denso alternator. If you don't adulter these things, they will last A LONG time. The average denso alt goes around 150K miles or 5000 hours. I don't think we have stats on the PP, but based upon what I read here, I can't imagine the average is any more than 500 hours and for that privilege you are paying about a 5X premium if comparing to new and 10X if compared to reman.
 
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lr172 said:
Yes, that is part of the VR module they designed themselvs. Pro-it has OV protection; Con- it is not a denso made part and only seems to work for 200 hours. I just bought a Tacoma with 175,000 miles and still has the original denso alternator. If you don't adulter these things, they will last A LONG time. The average denso alt goes around 150K miles or 5000 hours. I don't think we have stats on the PP, but based upon what I read here, I can't imagine the average is any more than 500 hours and for that privilede you are paying about a 5X premium.
Click to expand...

Thanks! Clearly the PP alternator suffers from short life - I'm guessing it may be due to the VR being attached and subject to all the engine heat/vibration.
 
dbier99 said:
- I'm guessing it may be due to the VR being attached and subject to all the engine heat/vibration.
Click to expand...

No, The densos I referenced going 150K are ALL internally regulated. That has been the norm in the auto world for at least four decades. It is just poor design of the custom parts that Hartzell makes and puts into the otherwise quality alt. They just don't last long.
 
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lr172 said:
No, The densos I referenced going 150K are ALL internally regulated. That has been the norm in the auto world for at least four decades. It is just poor design of the custom parts that Hartzell makes and puts into the otherwise quality alt. They just don't last long.
Click to expand...
So the Densos you used have built-in voltage regulators - but do not have oveerage protection - Correct?
 
dbier99 said:
So the Densos you used have built-in voltage regulators - but do not have oveerage protection - Correct?
Click to expand...

No. As mentioned, I believe that the alt's on our lyc's get a lot more heat than the auto installations do (close proximity to exh and no ram air in the lower cowl, like an auto). For this reason, I prefer ext regulators in a cooler spot. None of the densos, other than the PP franken-denso have OV protection. B&C also use ext regulation and their regulator has OV protection built in. IIRC, they recommend installing it in the cockpit to keep it cool.

Not saying a good denso IR will not give long service life. This is just me doing arm chair engineering and have no proof that my assumption is correct.
 
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lr172 said:
No. As mentioned, I believe that the alt's on our lyc's get a lot more heat than the auto installations do (close proximity to exh and no ram air in the lower cowl, like an auto). For this reason, I prefer ext regulators in a cooler spot. None of the densos, other than the PP franken-denso have OV protection. B&C also use ext regulation and their regulator has OV protection built in. IIRC, they recommend installing it in the cockpit to keep it cool.

Not saying a good denso IR will not give long service life. This is just me doing arm chair engineering and have no proof that my assumption is correct.
Click to expand...
Thanks! (Adding some words to get the message to post) :)
 
lr172 said:
Con- it is not a denso made part and only seems to work for 200 hours. ...I don't think we have stats on the PP, but based upon what I read here, I can't imagine the average is any more than 500 hours...
Click to expand...

I must be living right or something, because mine has made it to nearly 1000 hours.

And you're right...we *don't* have any stats to back up any claims of shorter or longer life. Thus, all we can do is "imagine" what the average is.
 
RV7A Flyer said:
I must be living right or something, because mine has made it to nearly 1000 hours.

And you're right...we *don't* have any stats to back up any claims of shorter or longer life. Thus, all we can do is "imagine" what the average is.
Click to expand...

Yeah, I am sure a lot of these live a long happy life. However, there just seem to be way too many threads like this one talking about early failure for that to be universal. Maybe we meet in the middle and call it PP roulette.
 
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