Wing Wiring Considerations, which side for what?

[MIKE JG]

Trying to figure out what all I need wiring for in each wing, here's what I have so far:

Electrical/pneumatic:

• L/R - Wiring for wingtips (landing, taxi, position, strobe, area) I am installing the integrated AeroLED wingtips with all the lights in the tips
o 3 strands of 4 AWG shielded wires
o Use Vans Conduit

• L - Wiring for pitot tube heating/controller
o Use center hole with grommets
o Mount to nearest wing rib

• L - tubing for Pitot/AOA sensor
o Use top and bottom holes with grommets

• L - Wiring for OAT sensor
o Left wing inboard-most access plate?
o Use center hole with grommets

• R - wiring for autopilot servo
o Use Vans Conduit with opening

• ADAHRS??
• Magnetometer??

The last two are the ones I'm unsure of as to where those typically get mounted, in the wings themselves or out on the tips inside the wingtips?? Looks like I'm going with Dynon for the avionics.

 

[Carl Froehlich]

Mount the ADAHRS behind just behind the baggage compartment up high. I used a piece of pre-peg fiberglass board to mount them. Access is via taking the baggage shelf rear bulkhead off. See attached photo. Magnetometer not required or desired (SkyView install).

On the left wing:
- The Van’s conduit to the bellcrank area. The holes in the ribs are enlarged to 3/4” so this conduit is a tight fit.
- The runs to the bell crank area include Pitot, AOA lines, Pitot Heat controller wires, landing light and Nav/Strobe wires. This run also included a single #14 wire for common ground (pitot heat and landing lights)
- From the bell crank area I use some 1/2” ID cold water pipe from Lowes. This conduit contains the wires that go from the bell crank area to the wing tip (landing lights, Nav/Strobe).
- For Lanindg lights I use #18 wire (power and ground from the bell crank #14 wire). For Nav/stoves I use a three #20 conductor shielded wire (Nav, strobes and strobe sinc). The shield provides the common ground.

Right wing:
- Same 1/2” cold water pipe in the existing rib holes. No need for the larger Van’s conduit.
- To the bell crank area includes (1) four #22 conductor shielded wire that connect the two OAT probes to the ADHARS modules. This moves the OAT probes out of the exhaust heat. The shielded wire is not needed, but it makes for a more robust wire run.
- Also to the bell crank area are the wires for the autopilot roll servo. Here I use (1) four #22 conductor shielded wire, a #20 ground and #20 power, and a #22 wire for autopilot disconnect (Dynon autopilot). They go to a 9 pin D connector to the D connector on the servo pig tails.
- From the bell crank area to the wing tip is another run of 1/2” conduit. This conduit has the same NAV/Strobe and landing light wires, as well as the run of coax to the wing tip VOR/ILS/GS antenna.


Carl

 

[RV7 To Go]

I did basically what Carl did except I moved the ADAHRS back further to the front of the next rear bulkhead, in trying to keep it 2' away from the servo and any ferrous metal or possible magnetic field. I also put the OAT sensor about 6" below the H stab and about the same back of the leading edge. I installed it there on my 7 and it is accurate in that location and an easy run from the ADAHRS. (Dynon also)

 

[wirejock]

4AWG?
Don't look at those lights!

 

[Rich Pulman]

If you’re using the Dynon stuff, I’d suggest you consider mounting the magnetometer in the far outboard bay of the right wing which keeps its wires away from the high(er) amp wires of the pitot heat controller in the left wing. The OAT probe can be mounted underneath the right wing out near the magnetometer. You can then plug the OAT directly into the magnetometer.

 

[RV8JD]

My Dynon ADAHRS is on a shelf behind the aft baggage compartment, spanning the upper longerons roughly midway between the F-808 and F-809 bulkheads. This gives some distance away from any metal stuff you load in the Aft baggage compartment that might affect the built-in magnetometer. Still relatively accessible if you have to replace a failed ADAHRS unit, like I had to last year (after 1350 Hobbs Hours).



FWIW, my RV-8 (IO-360-M1B) has a Dynon OAT probe on the aft fuselage under the right stab. A friend retrofitted a Davtron OAT probe (for an AV 30) for his RV-8 on the second outboard inspection panel of the left wing. We have compared OAT readings on several occasions when flying close together and they are close. I have heard anecdotally that the 'aft fuselage under the right stab' location does not work as well for RV's with larger engines that put out more heat (like those for the RV-10).

 

[ERJDriver]

Adhars in tail, pitot controller mount to the inside of and inspection plate next to the pitot. Ez pz

 

[rockwoodrv9]

One thing to consider adding is an extra wire to power a camera mounted on the screws between the wing and wing tip. The camera batteries do not last as long as a flight so having a power source out there would be helpful. My camera is mounted on the left side - sometimes on the top of the wing, others on a pole mounted below the wing. I plan to add a power source out there this winter when we are frozen here in Michigan.