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What tool to tighten fuel tank fittings?

F

FlyingDiver

Well Known Member
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I can get them hand tight, but can't figure out how to actually tighten them. I was thinking a crows-foot for a socket wrench, but can't seem to get it lined up in there.

Suggestions?
 

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You're on the right track with the crow's foot style attachment. The trick is to rotate the entire wrench assembly around the fitting rather than try to turn the extension coming off of the wrench the way you normally do with ordinary sockets.
 
I was able to tighten one of them with a combination wrench that I cut the open end off of; the other was with the crow’s foot. Don’t remember which was which, though.
 
Actually there is a cutout on the tunnel side panels that so you can get a open end wrench on on them if the rudder peddles are not attached. Think thin, 11/16 if I remember correctly. I ground a HF throw away down to make it totally flat about 1/16 off both sides of the head. If peddles are in already then contortions with a crow foot are called for or drop the peddles which present there own problems. Be sure and pressure test your fuel system before closing those connectors up with more stuff.
 
docjjrmd said:
Actually there is a cutout on the tunnel side panels that so you can get a open end wrench on on them if the rudder peddles are not attached. Think thin, 11/16 if I remember correctly. I ground a HF throw away down to make it totally flat about 1/16 off both sides of the head. If peddles are in already then contortions with a crow foot are called for or drop the peddles which present there own problems. Be sure and pressure test your fuel system before closing those connectors up with more stuff.
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I think these are the lines connecting to the bottom of the fuel tank…….
 
See the "Failure to start" thread in this forum. Recent posts include photos of useful tools, sources, and part numbers. I use a stubby open-end wrench, but don't like it.
 
FlyingDiver said:
That is correct. I was trying to figure out what that poster was talking about, but I hadn't figured out a reply yet.
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My bad, on Fuel Tank I was able to use crow foot. Found a set for 1/4 drive and used a long wobble extension, seemed a bit easier than the 3/8 drive. Just that bit smaller to get in tight space. Didn't mean to confuse folks but I was thinking we were looking at the infamous firewall fittings.
 
Long extension, wobble/universal, short extension, crows foot. Each of the fittings will need a slightly different arrangement, but try that stack up in that order for the one you're struggling with.
 
Finally got it with a couple of 1/4" extensions and much swearing and skinned knuckles. We'll see how I did when I finally put fuel in it. ;)
 
A couple of tips here. For the line going aft, attach it at the tank first. It's a little easier with a flare nut wrench to move the nut enough to get other tools on it. In any case, because of the clocking situation, it is SUPER easy for your crow's foot or wrench to hit and damage the other line so you be very mindful of that. An offset box wrench can also help in combination with the other tools described. It also helps to have someone alternately moving the flaperon to create clearance you'll need.

There are so many parts of the design, particularly in regards to the fuel lines that are just ridiculous. This is one of them.

Screenshot_20-4-2026_10848_eaabuilderslog.org.jpeg
 
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