Using the back of Skyview for wire support? (hear me out)

[Steve Crewdog]

Kinda boxed myself into a corner here, the best (almost only) way to route the wires to the warning lights is up the back of the Skyview, this is a temporary look-see mockup. I forgot the panel hangs from the top of the "arch" and takes up about 1" with cutouts for the 3 wire lights on the right of the images, and the corner of the Skyview, so my old idea of running the up the edge and over is out.

Standing by to receive incoming fire....

 

[Desert Rat]

Couple of things;

1-It's going to be a hassle to have to reach up under the panel and cut those ties to get the screen out.

2- I'm don't have any direct experience with a sky view screen, but looking at the picture, I see heat sinks on both sides of those cooling fans so I'd be willing to bet the back of that box gets pretty warm.

Your mockup wouldn't be my first choice, but I get that sometimes you've gotta do what you gotta do. If you have to go that way, I'd suggest some kind of wire protection heat sleeve around your wiring and some E6000 to glue those wire tie bases on, because it's a sure thing that the double stick tape will let go sooner or later.

What would be wrong with riveting an L shaped aluminum flange to the panel on the outboard side of the screen with the long leg sticking forward couple of inches and securing your wiring to that?

 

[PaulvS]

The only minor issue in my opinion is that it makes it more difficult to remove the Skyview screen in case it needs servicing or to use the cutout hole to conveniently do work behind the panel. Can you not route the wires from the other side of the display, or perpendicular from the sub-panel behind the display? Looks like the wires to the lamps would need to be lengthened to change the routing.

 

[Richard Connell]

What I did on my 7. I’ll look for photos.
Route the wires across the top and around the corner with an adel clamp screwed to the back of the panel.
How do you do that without seeing the screw in the pilot side of the panel?
Rivet a nutplate to the engine side of the panel using countersunk rivets (from the pilot side) if you do this neatly you won’t be able to see the rivets once the pilot side of the panel is painted. I have lots of these on my panel.
Then screw the adel clamp screw into the nutplate the wrong way.

 

[Steve Crewdog]

Terry: the panel is removable, my plan would be to cut the ties after I pulled the Skyview forward (rearward?) out of the panel.

Paul vS: That's an option, sometimes you gotta take the long way around.

Richard; unfortunately, I veneered my panel, so I'm reluctant to add more rivets. (on the next panel....) https://vansairforce.net/community/showthread.php?t=16578&highlight=veneer



Just had a very nice conversation with Dynon tech support, they say there's no EMI or heat issue with doing it this way, just tried removing the display and didn't have (much) problem getting it all out and acess to the mounts. About to hit the road for pretty much the rest of the month for work (volunteering at SnF was my vacation), so I don't have to make a wrong decision right away. Just because you can do something and it's legal to do something, doesn't mean you should do something.


Take care

 

[mburch]

Click-Bond fasteners would be a great way to attach something to the back of the panel without drilling holes. As a matter of principle I wouldn't glue things to my avionics.

 

[Steve Crewdog]

Click-Bond fasteners would be a great way to attach something to the back of the panel without drilling holes. As a matter of principle I wouldn't glue things to my avionics.

Tried that, but the other problem with running along the side is that the wires eventually have to go across the top of the Skyview, meaning they'll rub against the top corner of the display case.

Looks like the back is going to be the way to go. Subject to change if I come up with anything better.