Michael Burbidge
Well Known Member
My process for drilling out rivets. I think there are a couple of unique tricks here from what I've read:
1. Center punch the manufactured head using a spring-loaded center punch. When possible use the identifier dimple on AD rivets as the guide to the center of the rivet.
2. Deepen the center-punched mark using 6 - 8 turns of my fluted debur tool. Firm pressure. (https://www.cleavelandtool.com/collections/drilling-and-deburring/products/speed-debur-and-countersink-set) This step is key for me. A jobber drill bit is much less likely to wander in the deeper/wider center-punch mark made with the debur tool.
3. Use a #40 or #30 drill bit, depending on rivet size, to drill just deep enough that the head can be snapped off using the appropriate sized punch.
4. Snap the manufactured head off with a punch.
5. Using a bucking bar to support material on the back side, and my spring-loaded center punch. Pop the shank out the back. I find that 4 or 5 snaps of the spring loaded center-punch will usually pop the shank out.
They should make a spring loaded punch with a #40 and #30 punch on it instead of a center punch! It makes this job doable with 2 hands, rather than 3.
Michael-
1. Center punch the manufactured head using a spring-loaded center punch. When possible use the identifier dimple on AD rivets as the guide to the center of the rivet.
2. Deepen the center-punched mark using 6 - 8 turns of my fluted debur tool. Firm pressure. (https://www.cleavelandtool.com/collections/drilling-and-deburring/products/speed-debur-and-countersink-set) This step is key for me. A jobber drill bit is much less likely to wander in the deeper/wider center-punch mark made with the debur tool.
3. Use a #40 or #30 drill bit, depending on rivet size, to drill just deep enough that the head can be snapped off using the appropriate sized punch.
4. Snap the manufactured head off with a punch.
5. Using a bucking bar to support material on the back side, and my spring-loaded center punch. Pop the shank out the back. I find that 4 or 5 snaps of the spring loaded center-punch will usually pop the shank out.
They should make a spring loaded punch with a #40 and #30 punch on it instead of a center punch! It makes this job doable with 2 hands, rather than 3.
Michael-