I purchased paper clips and was ready to use them to give me a final trim line for cutting the height of the baffles.
Then I came up with an idea, which is:
Tape two pop sickle sticks on to a pointed tip magic marker. Tape them on to the marker so the ends of the pop sickle sticks are even with the marking tip. With the marker I used, this gave me 3/8" from the tip to the top of the pop sickle sticks.
This can then be used to slide along the upper inside surface of the top cowling and give a solid accurate mark on the baffles to cut to.
I was not sure how well this would work so I went with one pop sickle stick for the first cut. After cutting it was pretty obvious that this technique had transferred a very accurate profile of the cowl top to the baffles. If I were to do it again right now, I would go ahead and mark it up for the final cut as soon as the baffles were trimmed down enough to get the cowl in final position.
I used various extension items like some 3/4" angle I had laying around, and some paint stir sticks to make it easy to reach in to make the marks. Pulling rather than pushing worked best to allow the marker to slide along. The two front vertical baffles are left out, as well as the flywheel to allow reaching in to mark the inside of the rest of the baffles, then the same technique can be used to get the vertical baffles up front marked.
To get the baffles cut down enough to allow the cowl halves to mate up, I used the paint sticks and clamps to hold the cowl apart at 5". 4 sticks and 8 clamps. this allowed me to reach in from the back and from the front to mark for the initial cuts. Just set the gap all around at exactly 5" or what ever you want to use and reach in to mark. Two pop sickle sticks taped together with a notch at 5" made this part easier too.
Hope this helps someone in a part of the build where some help is very welcome; BAFFLES!
Randall Crothers in Sedona
RV7A new firewall forward with IO375 and WWRV200
Just completed the snorkel intake setup.
Then I came up with an idea, which is:
Tape two pop sickle sticks on to a pointed tip magic marker. Tape them on to the marker so the ends of the pop sickle sticks are even with the marking tip. With the marker I used, this gave me 3/8" from the tip to the top of the pop sickle sticks.
This can then be used to slide along the upper inside surface of the top cowling and give a solid accurate mark on the baffles to cut to.
I was not sure how well this would work so I went with one pop sickle stick for the first cut. After cutting it was pretty obvious that this technique had transferred a very accurate profile of the cowl top to the baffles. If I were to do it again right now, I would go ahead and mark it up for the final cut as soon as the baffles were trimmed down enough to get the cowl in final position.
I used various extension items like some 3/4" angle I had laying around, and some paint stir sticks to make it easy to reach in to make the marks. Pulling rather than pushing worked best to allow the marker to slide along. The two front vertical baffles are left out, as well as the flywheel to allow reaching in to mark the inside of the rest of the baffles, then the same technique can be used to get the vertical baffles up front marked.
To get the baffles cut down enough to allow the cowl halves to mate up, I used the paint sticks and clamps to hold the cowl apart at 5". 4 sticks and 8 clamps. this allowed me to reach in from the back and from the front to mark for the initial cuts. Just set the gap all around at exactly 5" or what ever you want to use and reach in to mark. Two pop sickle sticks taped together with a notch at 5" made this part easier too.
Hope this helps someone in a part of the build where some help is very welcome; BAFFLES!
Randall Crothers in Sedona
RV7A new firewall forward with IO375 and WWRV200
Just completed the snorkel intake setup.