Thinking Ahead Past Empennage

[NickC]

Hello All,

I'm wondering if anyone has any tips/suggestions that they wish they thought of before final assembly of the structure. Things like 'only cleco in the top skins of the tail cone to make cable and electrical routing easier' or 'don't attach the tailcone to the fuselage until after everything is routed that can be'. Simple stuff that helps avoid some headaches and cursing later with routing in small spaces.

I'm also hoping for some suggestions/resources on jigs/stands/tables that people have found extremely useful. I have quite a bit of workspace so just looking for suggestions to help the build go a bit quicker and with less frustration. For instance- I'm considering buying an automotive rotisserie for the fuselage assembly and component installs (flap motor, fuel system, harnessing, etc.).

Any feedback is appreciated!

Thanks,
-Nick

 

[kirkbauer]

A few tips I know (mostly from my friend who has finished his RV-10; mine is still in progress):

• Section 31: don't rivet the Fwd Fuse Top Skin until you have finished your avionics install/wiring process (easier access)
• Section 31: you also may need to modify the plans to fit deeper avionics components, depending on your layout, etc.
• Section 41: don't install the Upper Forward Fuselage Subassembly into the fuselage until the avionics are complete -- as long as you have not installed the windshield yet, you can wait on doing this section.
• Section 41: if you want to replace the curved hinge pin on the cowling with Camlocks, this is the time to do it.

 

[Carl Froehlich]

I suggest trying to figure out wiring as such at this point has many pitfalls.

I do suggest that once the tail cone and fuselage are mated, you can run cabling (and conduit) fore to aft. Do this before the cabin top is on and the baggage compartment floors are in. I put in six conduits, five are used and the sixth is for future use. The forward top skin should go on before the cabin top, but before that make your firewall cable penetration decisions (not the cables, the penetrators themself). Do the rudder pedals and such before final top skin riveting. The last step in the forward top skin is cutting the access hole in the bulkhead between the panel and the firewall (assumes you are using a deep NAV/Comm like the GTN-650). This may require modification of the center top skin rib to get the 650 high enough to be practical.

This access hole is really the limiting issue, all panel wiring and avionics can be deferred to the end of the build if you take the step to make the panel fully removable. This greatly simplifies wiring and promotes future maintenance, updates and such.

I fit the flaps and control tubes and such, but leave them out until after interior paint.

Carl

 

[CJT]

If you wish to remove central rod at windscreen, to give a clean look, it can be done without affecting structural strength, ask Joe Czachorowski ( [email protected]), vans east coast representative ( I couldn’t do it because by then windscreen was already attached and wiring done

Also would suggest Sound dampening paint, which would make aircraft heavier by 50lbs, but would reduce vibration

 

[NickC]

This is all excellent feedback! Thank you all for the information.

I learned my lesson about trying to get too far ahead with the system layout and harnessing- I was going to go with EFII on the 540 and Vertical power for the ECB and the PPS. I'm still likely going with the Vertical Power ECB and PPS, but now I am going to try to be one of the first with a DeltaHawk engine on a -10. We'll see if the timelines match up.

CJT- Thanks for the suggestion about the center support removal with a contact at Van's that's familiar with it. I have never even heard of that mod before so I will definitely reach out to Joe. I'll have to do some research on the sound dampening paint, that's interesting.

 

[Richard Connell]

CJT- Thanks for the suggestion about the center support removal with a contact at Van's that's familiar with it. I have never even heard of that mod before so I will definitely reach out to Joe. I'll have to do some research on the sound dampening paint, that's interesting.

A few things… each to their own but-

Let us know what Joe says. I find it hard to believe that removing the center cabin brace is acceptable to the factory.

50lbs(!) for sound deadening paint I would also highly recommend against for many reasons. Decent noise cancelling headsets much smarter.

I know of no RV10s that have such modifications. Doesn’t mean they don’t exist but I’d be very surprised.

WRT to avionics and the top fwd skin, you could easily be many many months if not years installing the cabin top and doors, making an unholy mess in the process.
I would design your electrical and avionics such that it is all aft of the sub panel. That way you can leave it all till last. I pre wired some harnesses on the bench then basically sat in the pilot seat and wired it all up in clean comfort towards the end of my build.

Don’t put it up on its gear until you have finished the cabin top and doors. Much easier to work on it with the fuse on a dolly just off the ground.

Good luck!

 

[NickC]

Let us know what Joe says. I find it hard to believe that removing the center cabin brace is acceptable to the factory.

Will do! I wouldn't do it unless Vans approves some kind of mod that they tested but it's worth asking the question

50lbs(!) for sound deadening paint I would also highly recommend against for many reasons. Decent noise cancelling headsets much smarter.

I had the exact same thought regarding the cancelling headsets that weigh less than 5 lbs. Still worth looking into so that I have all information, even if it's a dead end.

WRT to avionics and the top fwd skin, you could easily be many many months if not years installing the cabin top and doors, making an unholy mess in the process.
I would design your electrical and avionics such that it is all aft of the sub panel. That way you can leave it all till last. I pre wired some harnesses on the bench then basically sat in the pilot seat and wired it all up in clean comfort towards the end of my build.

I will likely be building a functional bench to checkout most of the avionics off of the aircraft and verify the harness build and then depin connectors as needed for routing. That way I can go back and forth between harness build/checkout and Avionics setup and finishing the top/doors and install the avionics and harnesses after I finish like you suggested.

Appreciate the feedback!

 

[Mike S]

Have you looked at the "Sticky" threads in the 10 forum? Couple of them might be helpful.

Think ahead how you will do maintenance, and upgrades. Access panels in the tunnel and cowl are nice.