Things to do FWF before mounting engine

[mc607]

I'm hoping to be ready to mount the engine next month. I'll have the main gear frp done this week and then the engine mount, nose wheel and frp. Is there anything else I should do before hanging engine?
Oil cooler?

I know there was a post not long ago on this, but it's easier to find a dropped rivet.

 

[Carl Froehlich]

A couple of things:
- Consider replacing the 90 degree firewall bulkhead fuel fitting with a 45 fitting. I strive to eliminate all 90 degree fittings between the engine and the fuel tanks to help mitigate vapor lock.
- Insulate the firewall? I refer you to Dan Horton’s posts on this.
- As this is an RV-14 and Van’s already figured this out, install the oil cooler mount but not the oil cooler. After engine mount and cowl done, then proceed in priority manner the stuff that is hard to route (oil cooler SCAT hose, oil cooler oil lines), then fuel lines and fuel flow sender, and then wires. I recommend you do not mount the fuel flow sender on the bottom side of the engine like the plans say.

Carl

 

[MED]

I'm hoping to be ready to mount the engine next month. I'll have the main gear frp done this week and then the engine mount, nose wheel and frp. Is there anything else I should do before hanging engine?
Oil cooler?

I know there was a post not long ago on this, but it's easier to find a dropped rivet. View attachment 73604View attachment 73605

Not just the firewall needs to be prepped. Make sure to mount engine accessories while access is good, too. Things like mags/pmags, stand-by alternators, etc.

 

[georgemohr]

Doing E-MAGs? Consider moving the MP sensor from the stock location to the third port on the sensor manifold. Aircraft Specialty offers a really nice hose kit for this relocation and it makes plumbing the E-MAG MP lines super easy.

 

[wirejock]

14 is probably different, but I found out it's really difficult to remove the battery on the 7A. I pulled the tray and put hinges on the front. Now I can pull two pins and the battery comes right out the front.

 

[Reflex]

On the advice of several folks on this board, I separated my wiring from my control cables. Yes, it takes an additional penetration (or two) and it's a pain to do, but it made sense to do so. Now that it's done, I'm glad I did.

 

[Halleffect]

A couple of things:
- Consider replacing the 90 degree firewall bulkhead fuel fitting with a 45 fitting. I strive to eliminate all 90 degree fittings between the engine and the fuel tanks to help mitigate vapor lock.
- Insulate the firewall? I refer you to Dan Horton’s posts on this.
- As this is an RV-14 and Van’s already figured this out, install the oil cooler mount but not the oil cooler. After engine mount and cowl done, then proceed in priority manner the stuff that is hard to route (oil cooler SCAT hose, oil cooler oil lines), then fuel lines and fuel flow sender, and then wires. I recommend you do not mount the fuel flow sender on the bottom side of the engine like the plans say.

Carl

“Consider replacing the 90 degree firewall bulkhead fuel fitting with a 45 fitting. …”
Is there enough room behind the shock to fit the hose with a 45? Seems pretty tight back there.

 

[mc607]

Lots of great comments, thank you!

 

[mc607]

Aircraft Specialty offers a really nice hose kit

George,
I do have that hose kit for the dual pmags. Do you know if the two black hoses and clamps, in the picture below, are included with the pmags/engine?
Todd

 

[georgemohr]

Yeah, they do Todd.

 

[mc607]

Thank you, George