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The VAF News - 4.28.2025. #6328. Washing dress shirt and pantaloons in the shower.

DeltaRomeo

doug reeves: unfluencer
Staff member
job2 over the weekend - quick KingAir gear and radio down and back turned into storm delays, missing a return flight and having to stay two days more on one set of clothes. Academy for cheap T-shirts! Cracker Barrel multiple times. RV-6 sat home in the hangar making smirking faces at me. Hoping to RVate here in a day or so, WX permitting. For my sanity! LOL
Hope your weekend had better laundry facilities…..and some RVs in the FOV. <g>
v/r,dr

PS:
Unmentionables and flying shirt needed again in 48 hours. Letting them dry post-shower. The glamour of part time contract and weather <g>. VAF helped me pass the time…. And that view!!!!!
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dr
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Mothership
Marc Cook Joins Van’s Aircraft as E-Commerce and Media Manager



131CM FS
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RE: RV-12iS Fuel Pump issue …Tony Kirk reply
I assumed from the first post it was a new build, not a flying aircraft, my bad.
According to the electrical schematics in the POH (and the Rotax Installation Manual) the Fuel Pump Switches only switch the ground side of the Fuel Pump circuits. There is no "fuel pump power" going through the HIC connectors from the ECU or to the FP Switches.
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Bob Y RV-12
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RE: Electric Flaps install RV4 - Looking for someone who has done it!
…fixnflyguy RV-4
I put them in during my RV-4 build, so it was very easy. If you aren't a "builder", It may be challenging, as it's not a bolt in operation. The R/H tunnel web has to be modifiied and cut, you will need the entire center floor removed, and the VANs supplied weldment/control arms require a second set of nylon pivot blocks located/installed. There will be a hole through the belly skin for the bellcrank arm pivot bolt and brackets for the actuator. While not complicated, it's got quite few moving pieces. There are quite a few RV-4's with a homebrew much simpler retrofit which installs the actuator vertically in the R/H sidewall and ties into the existing weldment, but the VANs kit is less intrusive to the passenger environment. I have my flap control buttons on my stick grip along with aileron and elevator trim...I LOVE the HOTAS system and never have to reach for anything on the panel. I also built close-outs for all the interior areas that have moving parts, and here is no flap handle for passenger foot fouling. You can see most of the parts in the pictures. I probably have some better shots in my build book, but it's not with me at the moment.
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RE: section 58-02 yaw servo install question, before big join
…lipper03
I went out and took a photo, the issue is you can't get CS-00002 through the bulkhead hole and the F-1489A because F-1489A is too tall, without it, CS-00002 just fits sliding in from the aft. It doesn't fit trying to slide from the front into the aft.
And you can imagine if the bell crank was installed, it just makes things worse, as it's totally in the way to slide in from the aft.
Hopefully this clears things up.
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mcgaughy RV-7A
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RE: Plenum changes -- Transparent Aluminum -- or similar material needed.
…Richard Connell
The plug I formed up doing a layup on top of the cowl. Then made some edges out of foam sandwich. Set that at about 1/2 under the inside of the cowl.
Spent a bit of time making the oil filler recess.
Once it was all done I 2k the plug and polished up.
The mold was just polyester. Cheap and quick.
I did go down the rabbit hole on post curing and high temp resins but it was the middle of Covid and it all got too hard. I thought about making an oven too. I ended up talking to a well respected composite builder locally that convinced me to do the layup in vinylester. I got one locally that has a Tg of 135c so 275F.
Miraculously I pulled that part on the first attempt. It was also my first ever infusion. So beginners luck I guess!
After that sucess I made a set of engine mount bolt covers for the rear baffle. That was trivial by comparison.
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Fugitive RV-6
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jcbarker
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OFF TOPIC:
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