Build Status Report
…PaulvS in Australia
All of the external painting is essentially complete now but when I went to fit the cowls there was a noticeable mismatch between the paint finish and the rest of the fuselage. There was more orange peel on the cowls than I liked and this is probably because they were painted quite early on, before I had some more practice and experience from painting the rest of the airframe. The cowls would probably be passable but since the paint booth was still set up I sanded back the cowls and re-sprayed them. This added two days to the project, which doesn't seem like much on top of 32 years.
I'm now finishing off details in the engine bay and cockpit before moving the fuselage out to the hangar and putting on the wings.
Pics of the cowls after re-painting:

New Builder Checking In.
…mianosm
bob865

AOG
bkervaski

2025 First Quarter Update
We’re off to a great start in 2025! We’re gaining momentum as we continue to improve operations, support the RV community, and make significant progress on the RV-15. Here’s a look at what we’ve accomplished in the first quarter and what we’re working on next:

Dauntless

RE: Cabin top rivets
…Richard Connell reply
I used solid AN4A rivets for all my cabin top to airframe rivets. I satisfied myself (I am an engineer) that the countersunk fiberglass would fail long before even an AD4A.
In terms of numbers on the rivets themselves an LP4 is good for around 160lb in shear. A regular AD4 390lb and an AD4A around 140lb. (An AD3 is 215 but obv a much smaller diameter which will increase the psi shear in the glass relative to the AD4/LP4- so I didn’t consider this option)
On the side rivets I made the backing plate 063, hysol’d to the cabin top and double flushed them. The rear just have the regular thin backing plate (but also bonded to the cabin top before riveting)
I didn’t want to bog the cabin top at the joins to hide the pop rivet heads and the seam. I’ve seen some of them done well and some not so well. I prefer the look of the rivets and a join. It was a bit of extra work but I had lots of covid time on my hands so was happy to experiment.
There are about 7-8 LP4s in the middle at the top where I couldn’t buck because they are inside the overhead console.
I’m aware of a couple of others who’ve done similar.
These are the only photos I have handy.

More RE Seat Rib Cutouts …nplajle
It does look pretty typical of the cutaway on a the -7. I'm not sure why it would be done that way instead of the way the plans suggest, and I'm not sure why 3 ribs were cut instead of just 2.
I'm starting to think that the cut away at the front of the seat rib flange was to fit the splice plate like Stevea suggested.
I managed to find 3 old photos from much earlier in the build phase. My latest theory is similar to yours - with the front of the seat rib cut away it is very weak, and someone crawling around in the fuselage, perhaps installing avionics or doing wiring sat on / stepped on / grabbed the ribs that caused the buckling. The three photos I found are from what I believe is an initial wing fit test and then some wiring. The 3118 photo is from April 2018 showing the seat ribs roughly in tact, though not perfect, and 3127 in October 2018 shows some fairly good damage. Passenger floor is from 2020 where it looks like it's been cleaned up a little. I don't have any without the seat pans in, so can't really tell what happened there. But based on the fact that the splice joining the cut away portion of the rib isn't present in any of these photos, my thoughts are that the missing piece comprimised strength enough and over the course of months / years of moving around in the cockpit caused the ribs to get kinked.
If I'm able to reinforce it in place I like the idea of putting some kind of doubler on the buckled ribs. My initial feeling is some kind of L angle might be enough, or some kind of 90 degree flange riveted to the side to try and give it some extra strength. Any thoughts / concerns? Fortunately the ribs should get a fair amount of support against buckling from the 5 point seat belt harness, but I don't think there's any harm in reinforcing it a bit more, particularly on the two ribs that have the aileron trim which have minor amounts of buckling.

billytime1 Q/A

ThorLasVegas

OFF TOPIC:

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…PaulvS in Australia
All of the external painting is essentially complete now but when I went to fit the cowls there was a noticeable mismatch between the paint finish and the rest of the fuselage. There was more orange peel on the cowls than I liked and this is probably because they were painted quite early on, before I had some more practice and experience from painting the rest of the airframe. The cowls would probably be passable but since the paint booth was still set up I sanded back the cowls and re-sprayed them. This added two days to the project, which doesn't seem like much on top of 32 years.
I'm now finishing off details in the engine bay and cockpit before moving the fuselage out to the hangar and putting on the wings.
Pics of the cowls after re-painting:
RV-6A Very Slow Build, Western Australia
Nice grin Paul :) The more so enduring the frustration… nice seeing you forging ahead.
vansairforce.net

New Builder Checking In.
…mianosm
Builder #75212 Checking In
I've been lurking on the forum here for a long time. I'm also a long-time student pilot (my first medical was in the mid-90s), hoping to obtain my private pilot certificate this year... I suppose that saying I take things easy or slowly is an understatement. That being said, I've received...
www.vansairforce.net
bob865
How did you build your aileron pushrod?
I haven't had a chance to build much lately. I've reached the point in assembling my wing where I need a second guy and my time has been sucked up by finally finishing my instrument rating. I check out on Saturday so I'll finally get back into the shop. Since I've only had a little time, I've...
www.vansairforce.net

AOG
bkervaski
AOG: Whirlwind Prop 300-3B(6) 72", Cracked!
I have a buddy AOG with a cracked Whirlwind Prop, model 300-3b(6) 72" that had a hangar door shut on it and developed a crack. Whirlwind is a few weeks out from having a replacement. Anyone have one they are willing to part with?
www.vansairforce.net

2025 First Quarter Update
We’re off to a great start in 2025! We’re gaining momentum as we continue to improve operations, support the RV community, and make significant progress on the RV-15. Here’s a look at what we’ve accomplished in the first quarter and what we’re working on next:
2025 First Quarter Update (Mothership)
Link to MailChimp issue: https://mailchi.mp/vansaircraft/rv-15-update-q1-achievements-whats-on-the-horizon v/r,dr
vansairforce.net

Dauntless
RV6A Rudder cracks
I have joined the crack club and am looking for how others have repaired. I have a 6A that has the .016 skin and the trailing edge last rivet row I have 2 cracks. If anyone has a rudder for sale or pictures of how they repaired I would really appreciate the guidance. Once again, this site is a...
www.vansairforce.net

RE: Cabin top rivets
…Richard Connell reply
I used solid AN4A rivets for all my cabin top to airframe rivets. I satisfied myself (I am an engineer) that the countersunk fiberglass would fail long before even an AD4A.
In terms of numbers on the rivets themselves an LP4 is good for around 160lb in shear. A regular AD4 390lb and an AD4A around 140lb. (An AD3 is 215 but obv a much smaller diameter which will increase the psi shear in the glass relative to the AD4/LP4- so I didn’t consider this option)
On the side rivets I made the backing plate 063, hysol’d to the cabin top and double flushed them. The rear just have the regular thin backing plate (but also bonded to the cabin top before riveting)
I didn’t want to bog the cabin top at the joins to hide the pop rivet heads and the seam. I’ve seen some of them done well and some not so well. I prefer the look of the rivets and a join. It was a bit of extra work but I had lots of covid time on my hands so was happy to experiment.
There are about 7-8 LP4s in the middle at the top where I couldn’t buck because they are inside the overhead console.
I’m aware of a couple of others who’ve done similar.
These are the only photos I have handy.
Cabin top rivets
I have searched and not found much info on using solid rivets instead of the pull rivets for attachment of the cabin top along the sides and rear. I asked Vans but feel like I got an obligatory “we suggest you follow the plans.” There was an old matronics thread but not much follow up. So...
vansairforce.net

More RE Seat Rib Cutouts …nplajle
It does look pretty typical of the cutaway on a the -7. I'm not sure why it would be done that way instead of the way the plans suggest, and I'm not sure why 3 ribs were cut instead of just 2.
I'm starting to think that the cut away at the front of the seat rib flange was to fit the splice plate like Stevea suggested.
I managed to find 3 old photos from much earlier in the build phase. My latest theory is similar to yours - with the front of the seat rib cut away it is very weak, and someone crawling around in the fuselage, perhaps installing avionics or doing wiring sat on / stepped on / grabbed the ribs that caused the buckling. The three photos I found are from what I believe is an initial wing fit test and then some wiring. The 3118 photo is from April 2018 showing the seat ribs roughly in tact, though not perfect, and 3127 in October 2018 shows some fairly good damage. Passenger floor is from 2020 where it looks like it's been cleaned up a little. I don't have any without the seat pans in, so can't really tell what happened there. But based on the fact that the splice joining the cut away portion of the rib isn't present in any of these photos, my thoughts are that the missing piece comprimised strength enough and over the course of months / years of moving around in the cockpit caused the ribs to get kinked.
If I'm able to reinforce it in place I like the idea of putting some kind of doubler on the buckled ribs. My initial feeling is some kind of L angle might be enough, or some kind of 90 degree flange riveted to the side to try and give it some extra strength. Any thoughts / concerns? Fortunately the ribs should get a fair amount of support against buckling from the 5 point seat belt harness, but I don't think there's any harm in reinforcing it a bit more, particularly on the two ribs that have the aileron trim which have minor amounts of buckling.
Seat Rib Questions
Hi, I'm slowly plodding along on finishing one of those '90%' complete RV-6A builds. Tonight I was looking at doing some work measuring up brackets to add a 5 point seatbelt harness, but I started looking at the seat ribs themselves and started to question everything. At first I noticed that...
vansairforce.net

billytime1 Q/A
F620
F620 aft end , cannot see how it attaches to f605.. On my build instruction paragraph 6 from the top of page it is mentioned but no way to attach to f615. Ho do I proceed. Prints pg 32 middle page bottom and bubble area directly above… What am I missing. Thanks Billy the kid
vansairforce.net

ThorLasVegas
Magnetic Anomaly G3X GMU11 GSU25 Garmin installation
Hi there. So I installed the GMU11 in the tail section accessing it through the fairing around the rudder base. The magnetic interference test checks out fine but I get this during flight! Any ideas? How hard is it to get the wire out to the wing instead?
www.vansairforce.net

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vansairforce.net
Please consider donating yearly to help keep this American 1-person pirate ship afloat:
Older issues of the ‘VAF News’ can be found at:
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Pushed out every now and then.
www.vansairforce.net
THE VAF LIST (a list of RV-related lists)
THE VAF LIST (a list of RV-related lists)
The VAF List ...a list of RV-related lists. RV-related things you might want to browse over (a closed post that is sticky and maintained by dr). Link to this in 'Links' in the menu. v/r,dr Small businesses that help bring you this list of RV-related lists: 360 Avionics www.360Avionics.com Ace...
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