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The VAF News - 2.20.2025. #6281.

DeltaRomeo

doug reeves: unfluencer
Staff member
jackking123 RV-7
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RE: RV-4 Cowling Work …fixnflyguy
When I built my -4, I was focused on simplicity and security. Nothing fancy to see here... I made a small diameter loop in my hinge pin that fits in a small recess at the front of the cowl. I have a nutplate on a metal plate bonded to the inside of the cowl, and a screw/washer to retain the pin loop. Also, you can see I put a screw in the AFT upper and lower half at that goes into a nutplate on the check extension. During my building stages, I spent alot of time looking at the areas of in service RV-4s that suffered wear and tear, as well as basic aesthetics, and saw these 2 areas as the ones suffering the most. The pin protrusion into the check extension as per plans is OK, but often turns into an ugly wear point, hence the screws I put in mine. Yours is looking good, and the cowling and canopy skirt are the test of patience and detail on the -4 build for sure.
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RE: Cole-Hersee Piper Plug Location
…alexpguerra reply
Here's my setup. Don't look at the painting.., still to be finished. In case you want to cut the skin, also attaching the file.
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EarthX Battery in a RV14 Battery Box
…Reflex reply
I read your posts with great interest as you and I seem to have found many of the same issues along the way. The battery "fit" is a good example of such an issue. While my -14 is now flying, I remember fighting the battery box and location as well. I thought I had better/more pictures of my solution than I do, but I did use an EarthX battery and box. I used an ETX-900 with a BB-MU box. In reviewing the EarthX website, it appears that EarthX doesn't make the BB-MU box anymore.

I used .125 aluminum spacers between the box and the Fiberfrax to make sure I could get the battery out, so the box was a bit deep for the battery, but EarthX sends material to take up the space. Unfortunately, the material was only enough to fill the gaps on the sides, you'll need to find similar material to take up the space front/back. I wanted the battery to be held so that it would slide in about out easily, but have no ability to "rattle" or vibrate. Note that I "think" the size of the ETX-900 may have changed since I purchased mine.

The fight I had was that the battery box didn't fit exactly where the box from Vans fits. I was concerned that I wouldn't be able to get the battery out of the box due to the battery depth and the forward angle on the firewall just above the battery. Also, I used Fiberfrax on my firewall so several adjustments had to be made. I wanted the Fiberfrax to go between the battery and the firewall. Ultimately, I drilled out the rivets that hold the original Van's box (replaced them of course) installed a .063 aluminum doubler under the Fiberfrax, and bolted the battery BB-MU box in place. It wasn't hard, but it was time consuming finding just the right spot, installing nutplates, etc.

Of the hundreds thousands of pictures of my project I don't seem to have any really great pictures of the finished product. Below may help get you started and I'll try to get over to the hangar to get some additional pictures this evening. It's -5F here and we have snow (which is odd for this area), so it might be a day or two until I can get something else posted.
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dr
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OFF TOPIC:
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