Typically the windshield will need shimming between the roll bar and the plexi in order to align it with the slider. Shim thickness will vary from nothing to 1/16" or 1/8" or maybe even 1/4", depending on the individual parts. Screws can easily accommodate the varying thicknesses, but pulled rivets will have their specified grip range, so there would be some effort involved with obtaining extra rivets to match the rivet length to the hole. I used screws on the windshield, per the plans, and it wasn't difficult. The #6 tap I used was high quality whereas a cheap tap might snap off and that would create complexity!I know that the plans call for screws but I used pop rivets on my slider per the plans with no issues. I don’t foresee unscrewing the windshield.
Screws create complexity that I just don’t think is needed.
Opinions?
Is there date to prove this with certainty at this point?It is much better and lessens the chance to have canopy cracks.
At least two people have already given you the answer.You guys understand that the whole slider portion was designed to be fitted with ACQ-44 pops?
So then why screws in the front when the plans call for pops in the back?
It’s starting to sink in. Thanks gents.At least two people have already given you the answer.
It provides a simple means of shimming the windscreen, so that it exactly matches the profile of the main canopy where they come together when the canopy is closed.
This would be rather difficult, if blind rivets were used. Particularly since in some instances, a rather thick spacer is needed in a few locations.