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Tank pressure for Cleveland squeezer

YME

Well Known Member
I know that the Cleveland directions say not to exceed 90psi when using the squeezer. But was wondering what pressure others are using for setting rivets and dimpling.
 
Mine is a Taylor form Brown tool (not a Cleveland) . The instructions for it say 90 pounds so that is what I use.

You adjust the length of the ram to adjust the amount the rivet is squeezed, not the pressure. For dimples I set the ram so that the dies just touch with no metal between them. That ensures that dies fully engage with metal between them but are near the end of the stroke where the pressure is max.
 
90 lbs -- it's an air-tool standard. I'm using the Cleaveland squeezer.

--CT Cole
RV-12iS in progress
 
CT, Thanks for the response. I see you are building RV-12iS also. I will be using a HF riveter for the pulled rivets. Is the air pressure the same?
 
CT, Thanks for the response. I see you are building RV-12iS also. I will be using a HF riveter for the pulled rivets. Is the air pressure the same?

I let the tank fill to whatever the compressor fills to.. 125 psi or whatever, but I regulate down the line pressure for the tool. (Using an actual regulator, not a needle valve restrictor). As for the HF riveter, I find it works best at much lower pressures, just enough to pop the rivet, try 30 to 35 psi. I find a slow pop is better and cleaner than a fast 90 psi pop.
 
90 lbs works for the pull riveters also (lower than that and you might need to pull the trigger several times). Should work for all the tools until you get to painting.

--CT Cole
 
Just saw Tom's reply suggesting 35 psi for a pull riveter, which surprises me, so sounds like some experimenting is in order.

--CTC
 
The pull rivet tool definitely works best at lower pressures. Around 35 is pretty good. Makes it much less prone to a violent recoil and the resulting bounce onto the surrounding area. Voice of experience. There are a lot of pull rivets in an RV12.
The pneumatic squeezer is a totally different tool. I can’t offer any thoughts on that one.
Cheers DaveH
 
Just saw Tom's reply suggesting 35 psi for a pull riveter, which surprises me, so sounds like some experimenting is in order.

--CTC
I realize there are a-lot of pressure scenarios, so I agree that experimenting is the way to go with different tools.
 
The pull rivet tool definitely works best at lower pressures. Around 35 is pretty good. Makes it much less prone to a violent recoil and the resulting bounce onto the surrounding area. Voice of experience. There are a lot of pull rivets in an RV12.
The pneumatic squeezer is a totally different tool. I can’t offer any thoughts on that one.
Cheers DaveH










Dave, thanks for your input, just want to make sure the rivet is pulled to it proper strength and no marring of the skin.
 
I've never tried 35 psi, but have had good results on thousands of pulled rivets with 40 to 45 psi. Just another data point for your experiment!
 
As far as strength goes, the pull rivet is self regulating. When the mandrel breaks, that’s it.
Cheers DaveH
 
I let the tank fill to whatever the compressor fills to.. 125 psi or whatever, but I regulate down the line pressure for the tool. (Using an actual regulator, not a needle valve restrictor). As for the HF riveter, I find it works best at much lower pressures, just enough to pop the rivet, try 30 to 35 psi. I find a slow pop is better and cleaner than a fast 90 psi pop.

The OP title should have been "line pressure"

This post from Taltruda is correct. Tank pressure has no bearing on tool performance, as long as the tank pressure stays above the set line pressure. You need a regulated line pressure for consistent tool performance.
 
The OP title should have been "line pressure"

This post from Taltruda is correct. Tank pressure has no bearing on tool performance, as long as the tank pressure stays above the set line pressure. You need a regulated line pressure for consistent tool performance.

Gasman, You are correct and line pressure would be the correct terminology.
 
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