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T-01231 needs final drill #30?

FlyingDiver

Well Known Member
Patron
The holes in the filler neck and the skin are both too small for the LP4-3 called out in the KAI (pg 38iS/U-18). So I'm assuming I need to final drill #30. Seems like a big miss to not have that in the instructions somewhere.
 
I haven't done that step myself yet, but it wouldn't surpise me. I understand from another thread that the dimensions of the overflow fuel line on that page are incorrect. Sorry, I don't have the link handy.
 
Yeah, I already had the corrected dimensions noted on my plans, from previous postings here. I just don't ever recall any comments on redrilling the holes.

I'm currently fitting the overflow with the filler neck clecoed in place. I forgot to order more tank sealant so I'm waiting on that to do the actual install.
 
The holes in the filler neck and the skin are both too small for the LP4-3 called out in the KAI (pg 38iS/U-18). So I'm assuming I need to final drill #30. Seems like a big miss to not have that in the instructions somewhere.
So far, I skipped section 38, but had quite some places where the factory holes were ever so much too small for LP4-3. Ruined quite some rivets in the attempt to make them fit. I am astonished that you obviously came this far without running into this challenge. At one point I just decided to predrill whenever the robots don’t fit. After all the holes must match the rivets and to my understanding of the KAI for an LP4-3 that is a #30 size.
 
So far, I skipped section 38, but had quite some places where the factory holes were ever so much too small for LP4-3. Ruined quite some rivets in the attempt to make them fit. I am astonished that you obviously came this far without running into this challenge. At one point I just decided to predrill whenever the robots don’t fit. After all the holes must match the rivets and to my understanding of the KAI for an LP4-3 that is a #30 size.
There's plenty of places I had to ream out a hole for a rivet. But these are not slightly undersized. They're 3/32" (silver cleco fits exactly) rather than 1/8".
 
When I built my RV-12 there were plenty of parts where the LP4-3's fit perfectly, but some were a bit tight. It was explained to me that this was the result of the punches used to make the holes had been in service long enough to have lost a bit of their diameter. The factory recommendation was to use a ream to bring them up to full size. I don't recall the rational for why to use a ream rather than a drill bit, but I followed the advice and it worked great. I had two hand drills and I just kept one of them loaded with a #30 reamer and grabbed it whenever needed.
 
When I built my RV-12 there were plenty of parts where the LP4-3's fit perfectly, but some were a bit tight. It was explained to me that this was the result of the punches used to make the holes had been in service long enough to have lost a bit of their diameter. The factory recommendation was to use a ream to bring them up to full size. I don't recall the rational for why to use a ream rather than a drill bit, but I followed the advice and it worked great. I had two hand drills and I just kept one of them loaded with a #30 reamer and grabbed it whenever needed.
  • A #30 drill bit nominally cuts a 0.1285" hole, and it often produces a slightly oversized or irregular hole due to wobble and material behavior.
  • A #30 reamer brings the hole to a precise, consistent diameter with much tighter tolerances among other things
 
The diameter of a #30 drill bit is nominally 0 .1285 but in reality, it can vary a few thousands.

Mil Spec MIL-R-47196A calls out the allowable hole size for a 1/8" driven rivet as 0.125-0.135.

The tolerance on the shank of an LP4 is 0.122-0.129.

So if you're on the smaller side of the hole tolerance but on the bigger side of the LP4 tolerance, a cleco or driven rivet will fit in the hole but a LP4 won't until you bring the hole size up a couple of thousandths.
 
  • A #30 drill bit nominally cuts a 0.1285" hole, and it often produces a slightly oversized or irregular hole due to wobble and material behavior.
  • A #30 reamer brings the hole to a precise, consistent diameter with much tighter tolerances among other things
Thank you. Clear & concise.

Now, if only I can remember this in a year or so... :-)
 
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