What's new
Van's Air Force

Don't miss anything! Register now for full access to the definitive RV support community.

Support/advise for resealing leaking tank

Rocinante

Member
As best I can tell, in limited areas, my Proseal has reverted and I have one significant fuel seep, and after pulling the tank, have found several areas which are at risk for future leaks/seeps. (plane finished 1995, not by me)

Completely removing the Proseal is very laborious, and, unfortunately, my discretionary time is very limited. Also, the original inner sealant is flaking away (very thin, translucent cream colored flakes/strips), and will need to be addressed.

I tried to reach out multiple times (over several weeks) to "Weep No More", but have not gotten a response.

If all else fails, the plan is to put a gallon or two of MEK in the tanks, slosh it around to dissolve away in inner sealant, the apply a better/newer (hopefully more reliable) product, and scrape away the external areas of failed Proseal as best I can, and re-apply new Proseal.


Does anyone have:

1. recommendations/instructions for better methods I can use to to remove the Proseal in the areas of failure, and appropriate re-application?

and/or

2. a business/resource I could send my tanks to have someone professionally reseal them?

Any suggestions are welcome.
 
I’m sorry to hear that you’re having difficulty reaching Paul (Weep No More). If I’m not mistaken, the phone number he has listed is also his cellphone, so if he’s not responding to emails, you may try sending him a text.
 
Hopefully Weep No More can help you out because he has the equipment and expertise to properly clean out and reseal the tanks. It sounds like your tanks have been sloshed and that will need to be completely removed.

It took me about 1 week of work per tank to remove the reverted Proseal. I don't think sloshing with a gallon or two of MEK would be effective because the failed sealant needs to be scrubbed and wiped off progressively. There is also a fire risk and fumes hazard.

First step would be to cut access holes in the back baffles and then possibly also remove the baffles, depending on the internal state. Polygone will remove the solid Proseal and a solvent containing toluene will dissolve the goo. It's a messy laborious job, no way around that, unfortunately, so it will cost.
 

Attachments

  • 20221125_155812.jpg
    20221125_155812.jpg
    268.8 KB · Views: 86
  • 20221127_130743.jpg
    20221127_130743.jpg
    368.1 KB · Views: 97
  • 20221221_174659.jpg
    20221221_174659.jpg
    185.2 KB · Views: 83
Back
Top