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Should I replace this nutplate?

inktomi

inktomi

Well Known Member
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Hi -

I feel silly asking this, but I'm curious about a couple things:

a) How do you get into little spaces to set rivets? There must be a tool I don't have, because I did this nutpate twice and still it's really bad.
b) Should I replace this nutplate (again)?

I know that the rivets on these are only there to hold the plate in place while the bolt goes in. I don't like that the rivet isn't flush. I don't like that I chewed up the nutplate and the shop head is also really bad.

Probably I should just replace it - but what tool should I be using in these tight places to set the rivet?

View attachment PXL_20241026_032642910.jpgView attachment PXL_20241026_032636696.jpg
 
Maybe smooth jawed pliers? Would that work? I'd have to find some parallel jaw pliers like the Knipex though so that the jaws were parallel and not closing at an angle to each other. Is there a better tool?
 
inktomi said:
Maybe smooth jawed pliers? Would that work? I'd have to find some parallel jaw pliers like the Knipex though so that the jaws were parallel and not closing at an angle to each other. Is there a better tool?
Click to expand...
That rivet will need to be replaced if it's critical that whatever goes on top of it sit flush. If it was something like a heater box cover or whatever you could get away with it as is.

Knipex pliers will work, but the right tool for the job is either a no hole squeezer yoke with the tip ground down so the side opposite the part that squishes the shop head looks like a ducks bill, or a skinny bucking bar. I've got both in my hangar so if those descriptions aren't clear let me know and I'll take a couple of pictures tomorrow
 
Got it. I will get a no hole sqeezer yoke and grind it down a bit if I need to. This is part of the seat ramp, so I don't know that it's critical to be flush - the seat ramp is what is above it - but it would just look better and I don't like it as is.

I might also pick up some parallel jaw pliers - I was looking into them and they seem like they could be useful.

I appreciate it. I'll get to drilling the rivets out and redo it.
 
inktomi said:
Got it. I will get a no hole sqeezer yoke and grind it down a bit if I need to. This is part of the seat ramp, so I don't know that it's critical to be flush - the seat ramp is what is above it - but it would just look better and I don't like it as is.

I might also pick up some parallel jaw pliers - I was looking into them and they seem like they could be useful.

I appreciate it. I'll get to drilling the rivets out and redo it.
Click to expand...
You can use counter sunk pull rivets to hold the nut plates. There is nothing structural about the rivets that secure nutplates.
 
My first thought was the Knipex pliers like others have said. Harbor freight has a knock off brand that work well. It takes a little muscle, but they’ll set a -3 rivet
 
Three options:

1. Use a thin nose squeezer yoke to set the rivet (ie: the type that does not take a rivet set)

2. Use the CCC-32 Cherry rivet mentioned above

3. Change the two lug nut plate to a single lug nut plate
 
The nutplate looks like it will be OK. The rivet needs to be replaced. Either a pull rivet or smashing with a pair of parallel faced pliers. Look up Knipex pliers model # 9K 00 80 121 US
 
Quick help item when you are ready to drill the rivet out...Use a short bolt or screw with a washer tightened down to hold the nutplate in place, and that will reduce the tendency for it to bow away from the structure as the drill bit breaks the rivet shank. You can used the same idea when having trouble keeping a nutplate tight against structure when trying to rivet it.
 
Yep! I agree - what I was missing was the _how_. I got it done today, and picked up some of the cherry rivets in case they come in handy as well.
 
Cherry Rivets are great for their designed purpose but quite the overkill in this application. Removing them flat stinks. Find one with the right grip and head geometry (related diameters can be modified e.g.7/64 MKs) and save some money; shipping costs are stupidly expensive these days. Still overkill but a do-able sub is probably already in your Vans kit.
 
inktomi said:
Hi -

I feel silly asking this, but I'm curious about a couple things:

a) How do you get into little spaces to set rivets? There must be a tool I don't have, because I did this nutpate twice and still it's really bad.
b) Should I replace this nutplate (again)?

I know that the rivets on these are only there to hold the plate in place while the bolt goes in. I don't like that the rivet isn't flush. I don't like that I chewed up the nutplate and the shop head is also really bad.

Probably I should just replace it - but what tool should I be using in these tight places to set the rivet?

View attachment 72941View attachment 72940
Click to expand...
Seen worse.
 
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