Oops.
Perhaps. I think the hose I bought was too rigid - it really wouldn't flex very well once through the lightening holes, so we weren't able to do a lot of fishing around in there. Light was a challenge too. We couldn't get eyes on target.
I would recommend that RV-12 (and any other RV builders using Cherrymax rivets) builders not deviate from the manufacturers installation process of the rivets. Cherrymax rivet domentation may be found HERE
These are highly engineered pieces of hardware. Just because it is refered to as an aircraft grade rivet, doesn't mean you can choose to use any installation technique that is used for any other rivet.
A lot of the shear strength of a Cherry rivet is developed by the steel stem being properly locked in place.
Please do not deviate from the standard installation process.
Just looked at prices for a 100 degree 1/2 inch "spotting bit" (is this the same as the 100 degree bit Van's wants?? You gotta be kidding me!!! Anybody want to sell/rent their's after completing the mod? I'm planning on doing this the last 2 weeks in Feb 2013.
Wayne 120241/143WM
Dave, what comes up in the tool link you posted says it's a 3/8 diameter bit. Is that right? Price certainlt is better than the $70 - $100 "centering bit" I was looking at.
Wayne 120241/143WM
I was just planning to use one of the standard 100 deg 1/2" piloted bits in the spindle portion of a disassembled countersink cage. Is there any reason why that wouldn't work, or am I missing something?
You are gonna get a lot of chatter without the 1/4" center stub.
I was just planning to use one of the standard 100 deg 1/2" piloted bits in the spindle portion of a disassembled countersink cage. Is there any reason why that wouldn't work, or am I missing something?
Thanks Scott. Unfortunately I didn't see your post in time, so I've just ordered a bit with a 1/4" pilot and some other stuff I didn't really need to make up the minimum order - oh well, what's another $47 in the scheme of things!
Sorry about that.
You can never have too much stuff indeed - especially when a local fellow builder will be begging to borrow the stuff My cutters are all 3/8.
Thanks in advance, Rob!
Noted. Shutting up now.it would be nice if when people gave advice that directly contradicts something published by Van's, that they had actually tried to do a process exactly the way it is described, and then described what didn't work..
Noted. Shutting up now.it would be nice if when people gave advice that directly contradicts something published by Van's, that they had actually tried to do a process exactly the way it is described, and then described what didn't work..
Hmm... I suppose you'll want to borrow my new Cherrymax riveter as well Shirley?
Yes please Rob - and advice when you've done all the hard work. I don't ask for much, do I?
If I were in any rush, and didn't want to wait for the Van's Holiday time constant, I would simply fabricate my own drill template, in that you already have a model for it--take either the 1/4" stiffener or the steel wear plate, and match hole drill some aluminum sheet, and trim it up so that it fits where it needs to fit.I received my kit today also
No Drill Template
?
Received the SB on Decamber 21. It included only the skin doublers since I don't have the finish kit. My understanding is that a new hole must be drilled in the channel (one not present before the SB). I'd really like to do this before buttoning everything up. Am I worrying needlessly?
Jerre
Not at all. I just finished, and not having the rear window installed yet was a real help. You have to drill FOUR new holes in the center channel, and it would be infinitely easier if you did not have any of the surrounding stuff to contend with.
Don, speaking of rear windows, I if you decide not to use the window supplied by Van's I still want yours.
Walt Shipley
Hardest part was reattaching the gear legs, I think that took as long as all the other steps together. If someone else is doing it by themselves, PM me and I will show you how I conquered the beast.
I also have done it solo (on purpose to try and develop a process that could be done solo).
If people do what it says in Step 8 of the S.B. installation document (support the fuselage so that the tires are about 1 " off the floor), then the legs sit in just about the proper position during re-installation when they are resting on the fuselage skin (as long as they small skins haven't been removed). Because of the 1/4" in thick spacers that gets added above the gear legs, 3/4" thick boards are then just about the perfect thickness shims to use under the tires to get the legs just about perfectly aligned.
Yep, all that worked out as you said. My most perplexing problem was "threading" the gear leg back on that inner main bolt. No matter how much I tried, trying to get those two pieces and the leg on the bolt was not going to happen, the bolt kept pushing up thru the channel. I finally made me a fix, that got it done very nicely, here was my solution:
Even with that problem, my total time on the installation was far less than others have stated, but of course I had no wings to remove and had good access to that area and was in an air conditioned shop.
[/IMG]
?? But I thought you were already flying! Oh I get it, you are flying without a rear window.
Yep, all that worked out as you said. My most perplexing problem was "threading" the gear leg back on that inner main bolt. No matter how much I tried, trying to get those two pieces and the leg on the bolt was not going to happen, the bolt kept pushing up thru the channel. I finally made me a fix, that got it done very nicely.
Nice solution Don but your U-1203C plate is upside down on the picture.