I got a UPS notice that mine shipped today for kit nr 461!
Well Don, Vans must be giving you special attention this time. I'm at about the same stage as you, but no shipping notice for 346 yet - and I've bought the Rotax!
Maybe it is based on when you bought the finish kit or such. I ordered ALL my kits at the same time about two years ago almost exactly.
Only 200 kits will be shipped by Van's for free? There are about 600 or so kit owners who need the SB kits, right??? Please explain why the 400 or so of us are counted out.
Only 200 kits will be shipped by Van's for free? There are about 600 or so kit owners who need the SB kits, right??? Please explain why the 400 or so of us are counted out.
Actually, probably somewhere between 300-400 will be shipped. I think Ernie's point was that when the dust settles, everyone who has already received a fuselage kit up until now, will receive the S.B. kit without doing anything.
Everyone else will then receive a fuselage kit with the S.B. incorporated into it already, when they finally purchase that kit.
Thanks Larry, it did seem as though I was fighting a battle at times. I too am very satisfied with the final fix. I am also very grateful that mine is in a temperature controlled facility and at the stage that the fix will not be a big deal.
...............
It was 22 degrees in my hangar today when I started.
Before I tuned the heater on.
Now, if we can just get Tony to get this SB done.
I for one wouldn't mind some kind of hint from Van's on what their who-gets-it-when algorithm is. I'm into the on-the-ground PAP tests, and would like to know if parts are coming in the near future--I have the last two weeks of the year available as genuine vacation, and it would be a lovely time to get the SB accomplished...but if I'm on the not-until-January Santa's naughty list with Van's, I'll rearrange my strategy. I've had my engine kit for a year, and the fuse/finish kit for about two years...Kit #332.
I for one wouldn't mind some kind of hint from Van's on what their who-gets-it-when algorithm is. I'm into the on-the-ground PAP tests, and would like to know if parts are coming in the near future--I have the last two weeks of the year available as genuine vacation, and it would be a lovely time to get the SB accomplished...but if I'm on the not-until-January Santa's naughty list with Van's, I'll rearrange my strategy. I've had my engine kit for a year, and the fuse/finish kit for about two years...Kit #332.
Some of the rivets are Cherry Max. I found out today that a regular puller MAY work, but the Avery puller will not. The stems (mandrels) are too short. Thanks to Bobby K & John Bender I tried another puller I had and it worked fine.
I'm having a hard time pulling the Cherry Max rivets on the center channel. First, the mandrels are too short for my "tight places puller". Second, I tried my regular hand puller and the mandrel gets stuck after the first pull. The puller then has to be dis-assembled to release the mandrel. The Avery pneumatic puller works fine, but cannot operate in tight places.
I tried using the wedges with the pneumatic puller, thus pulling at a slight angle. The result is a mandrel braking before the rivet is fully set. The rivet must be pulled straight back, and then results are mixed; I'm not sure the manufactured head is fully compressed.
I've gone through 15 rivets so far with less than ideal results.
I wonder if the rivets are the correct size (-5). There does not seem to be enough length protruding.
I also wonder if LP4-5or 6 would be acceptable in this application.
Regards,
Rafael
BTW, the only way to remove the Cherry rivets without causing damage to the hole is to first grind off about 1/2 the thickness of the manufactured head. This will release the locking collar that locks the stem in place. Then you can drive out the center mandrel and drill to remove the rivet body, just like the LP rivets.
I have removed the rivets very easily because the rivets are not set before the mandrel breaks. The mandrel falls out with a light tap of a drift pin. The rivet almost falls out, so the hole is definitely not damaged.
I notice that a small washer (collar?) falls of the manufactured head when the mandrel breaks off.
I'll do some research on setting cherry rivets and proper tools before proceeding.
It would help if someone posted a picture of what a properly set rivet looks like.
Thanks and regards,
Rafael
my Sears hand puller worked perfectly.
John Bender
We got as far as getting the side doublers riveted in before running up against a tool delay. There might be a couple of useful tips and hints here:
http://www.schmetterlingaviation.com/2012/12/sb-12-11-09-part-1.html
We got as far as getting the side doublers riveted in before running up against a tool delay. There might be a couple of useful tips and hints here:
http://www.schmetterlingaviation.com/2012/12/sb-12-11-09-part-1.html